This blog is about saving energy, Daniel, not spending it in the pursuit of love. And besides, if my guess about your age is anywhere near correct (11 or 12), vous es too young! When you get a little older, try sending her some pink flowers or a really cute plush animal (guess which one?). In the meantime, strike up a conversation and listen to what she has to say. Listening is very endearing. Good luck.
This is outside my core area of expertise because I have been making insulation commercials for 25 years, not appliance commercials. However, I do know about some sources of information that might help. One is the Energy Savers booklet produced by the US Department of Energy. There is a chapter on appliances but don't overlook the sections on Water Heating and Heating and Cooling because they also refer to equipment maintenance. The DOE also has two Technology Fact Sheets that can help. One is titled Energy-Efficient Appliances and the other is Energy Efficiency Pays. Also, consider whether you might be better off buying a new energy efficient appliance. According to the National Resource Defense Council website, if you buy one of today's most energy efficient refrigerators it will use less than half the energy of a model that's 12 years old or older. Thanks for asking.
The color PINK is one of the things I like best about Owens Corning brand insulation. Way back in 1956, before I was born, the company developed a process for a much better glass fiber. The improved product had almost no "shot," which was what they called the small bits of glass that were not made into fibers. The sales department wanted a way to distinguish the new fiber from the standard product and the folks at the factory in Newark, Ohio added a red dye to the binder sprayed on the insulation to help it spring back to its full thickness when installed. The red dye made the improved product PINK instead of yellow. I started doing commercials for insulation in 1980 and in 1987 Owens Corning received a trademark for the color PINK used with insulation, thus becoming the first company to trademark a color. Thanks for asking.
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How nice of you to ask about me! Your questions are a nice change from questions about insulation. My creator is Isadore "Friz" Freleng and I starred in 124 cartoons. Here is a link to more information about my creator on Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Thanks again for asking. Pink Panther
Craig writes from Canada: "I am replacing wood siding on my bungalow with vinyl. I have new windows with a vinyl open brickmold attached (to accept the vinyl siding). I have a jam depth on the window designed to allow for 1" of extruded polystyrene insulation on the outside wall. My proposed installation then would be (from inside out:
"I plan to add:
"I see some mention of adding 1 inch wood furring strips over the codeboard before attaching the siding. If I do this, my siding will no longer align with the J-channel that is part of the window brickmold. It does not seem that building code in Canada requires the wood furring. My question is: what is the advantage of the furring strip and what do I give up by not having it in place? Are there any work-arounds you can think of?"
Another good question, Craig. Furring strips are primarily used for leveling uneven surfaces or where there is not a nailable base such as a block or concrete wall. Vinyl siding can be applied over foam sheathing as long as the fastener penetrates a minimum of 3/4" into the framing. For more information on how to install vinyl siding, please visit the Vinyl Siding Institute's Website at www.vinylsiding.org. Thanks for asking. Pink Panther
P.S. I tried to respond to you personally but my messages were returned as undeliverable.
Unfortunately, adding blown-in insulation to existing walls is not a good do-it-yourself project. The work could damage interior walls if not done properly. You state that your home has NO insulation in the walls but if there is even a small amount the existing insulation will likely block the new material from getting everywhere it needs to be. Also, I am not aware of any rental equipment for blowing insulation into existing walls. Bottom line: I recommend that you contact a local insulation professional. Thanks for asking. Pink Panther
Good question! The short answer: Use kraft-faced or unfaced insulation with basement walls. If you use a kraft-faced product, install it so the kraft paper is on the interior side. The experts I checked with don't recommend poly as a vapor barrier with basement walls. More information: Basement walls can be tricky with vapor drive varying from top to bottom at the same time. For example, winter conditions in parts of North America can be frozen above grade and warmer below. Unperforated poly can trap condensation in the wall while kraft paper actually becomes more permeable when humidity increases. Finally, the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System is another option you might want to consider. Thanks for asking. Pink Panther