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August 31, 2006

Question: What can I do about cold rooms?

Dave writes from Ocala, Florida: "I live in Ocala Fla. and I need some help. In the winter my home gets cold spots, were all of the back rooms will drop more then ten degrees in the winter months. We have put in new windows, heater & air but we still have the same thing, cold spots? Is there anything I can do? Some times my bill will be $300 or more, I would like to lower my bill if I can. Can you help?"

Do you know how much insulation you have in the walls and ceiling? I am assuming your home is on slab as many are in Florida. Based on my experience with Florida home construction you probably don't have enough wall and attic insulation. There may not even be any insulation in the walls. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) recommends a minimum of R-38 in the ceiling and R-13 in the walls.

Unfortunately, adding insulation to existing walls is not a good do-it-yourself project. The work could damage interior walls if not done properly. I recommend contacting a local insulation professional. Hopefully, the insulation you get will be PINK, like me.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:07 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 30, 2006

Composite materials can reduce weight and boost fuel efficiency

There have been several articles recently about how American automobiles are piling on the pounds while consumers fret about the high cost of fuel. Although there is lots of useful information out there, one point sorely missing from most of the conversations is the importance of reducing vehicle weight, which can be done with increased use of lightweight composite materials. Yes, my blog host makes glass fiber reinforcements for the automotive market, but Owens Corning is not alone in pointing out the benefits of lighter vehicles. For example, carbon fiber maker Zoltek has an article on its website making the case for cleaner and safer vehicles made with composite materials. The article's author is a member of the research staff at the Rocky Mountain Institute, a consulting organization, which says on its own website that lighter weight is the key to making vehicles super fuel efficient and safe. The claim is made in a technical review paper published in the International Journal of Vehicle Design, which reports how a 99-mpg SUV can be made with composite materials. Taking the idea to what may be an extreme, Accelerated Composites of Carlsbad, California, has announced plans to make a 330 mpg hybrid car. On a more modest scale, plenty of weight savings is available to car makers today with composite materials incorporating affordable and readily available glass fiber reinforcements. About 90 percent of all composites produced are made with glass fiber and either polyester or vinyl ester resin.

Posted by Pink Panther in Automotive Energy News at 10:17 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 29, 2006

Organizations Commit to Action Plan for Energy Efficiency

About a month ago I wrote that a big announcement was coming on the National Action Plan for Energy Efficiency. Well, it happened as predicted on July 31. More than 50 leading organizations joined together to develop the plan, which aims to help states and utilities overcome barriers that limit investment in energy efficiency. The action plan was developed with assistance from the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and with the participation of electric and gas utilities, utility regulators, state agencies, large energy users, consumer advocates, energy service providers, and environmental and energy efficiency organizations. On the day of the announcement, 72 organizations in 33 states also announced commitments to increase their investments in energy efficiency. The plan builds upon best practices from successful energy efficiency programs already operating in many areas. It recommends recognizing energy efficiency as a high-priority energy resource; making a strong, long-term commitment to implementing cost-effective energy efficiency as a resource; broadly communicating the benefits of and opportunities for energy efficiency; promoting sufficient, timely and stable program funding to deliver energy efficiency where cost-effective; and modifying policies and rate making practices to encourage utilities to invest in energy efficiency. The action plan and other related documents on the EPA website.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Activism , Energy News at 11:17 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 28, 2006

Question: What is the R-value difference with 2x6 walls?

Jeff writes from Hermitage, Tennessee: "I have just read with interest the question concerning 2x6 exterior framing vs. 2x4. We are in the design phase with our architect and I am getting conflicting opinions. I had planned to use 2x6 on 16" centers, covered with half-inch ply, then a house wrap and finally with 1 inch foam and then brick. Living in middle Tennessee, we do have prolonged hot summers and I am wondering if it would be more cost efficient to only go with the 2x4 with the foam instead of the 2x6, all other factors being equal. Also, will the addition of the plywood sheathing cause more thermal bridging, or will the rigid foam negate that. I am concerned about structural integrity. Our house will be a two story with an open plan. This will be our 'last' house."

With the 2x4 walls the most R-value you can achieve within the wall cavity with high density fiberglass insulation is R-15. With a 2x6 wall you can achieve R-21 using high density fiberglass insulation within the wall cavity.

The 1" rigid FOAMULAR insulation will greatly reduce thermal bridging.

As far as any structural integrity concerns, those will have to be addressed by your architect. Good luck with your "last" house, Jeff.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:56 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 25, 2006

Preventing mold growth while improving energy efficiency

It isn't exactly hot off the press but you might like to know there is a guide available online for understanding and minimizing the risk of mold in new homes. The document, titled "A California Builder's Guide to Reducing Mold Risk," is actually a report to the California Energy Commission dated April 12, 2006. According to lead authors Lew Harriman and Neil Leslie, "interviews with experts in the field provided an up-to-date sampling of the most relevant issues related to moisture intrusion in building assemblies. The (mostly peer reviewed) literature created a supporting foundation of information detailing background on the moisture intrusion issues cited by the experts in the field, as well as other issues."

Posted by Pink Panther in Online Energy Resources at 09:11 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 24, 2006

Question: Where does insulation go in a finished attic?

Jon writes from North Carolina: "I'm turning my attic into a second story/upstairs room and I've put Owens Corning R-30 foil backing with the foil side facing the second story subfloor. Is this the correct or best way to install this insulation??"

I am not sure I understand where you put the insulation, Jon. If the insulation is in the rafters and the foil facing is on the side toward the subfloor, that is correct. Of course, there should be a 1" space for ventilation between the insulation and the roof deck.

If you have installed the insulation between the "new" attic space and first story, I have a question: Is the "new" attic space going to be heated?

  • If yes, there is no need for thermal insulation between the two floors but you should receive some acoustic benefit.
  • If the "new" attic space is not going to be heated, then the facing will go toward the warm side.
Silly question, perhaps, but I just want to be clear for you and others who may read this. Thanks for the question.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:03 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 23, 2006

Financing to improve your home's energy efficiency

Financing may be available to help improve the energy efficiency of your home. According to a recent article on RealEstateJournal.com, a website affiliated with The Wall Street Journal, government agencies and private lenders are offering homeowners thousands of dollars in financing to improve the energy efficiency of their homes. Long-term, low-interest mortgages and loans are aimed at efficiency-minded homeowners who want to cut their utility bills. (Are there homeowners who don't want to cut their utility bills?) Borrowers can often arrange 30-year loan periods and interest rates below 10 percent, says the article. If you find the perfect house but it has an ancient heating and cooling system and 20-year-old appliances, you may be able to add an additional $35,000 to your mortgage to improve the energy efficiency of the property using a Federal Housing Authority program. Information about the rehabilitation mortgage program is available on the U.S. Housing and Urban Development (HUD) website.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News , Online Energy Resources at 08:25 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 22, 2006

Question: Can I use a vapor barrier with faced insulation?

Louie writes from Homer, Alaska: "I am insulating my 6" walls with 'faced' insulation. I have been told at the local supply store that the facing on the insulation is a vapor barrier and that putting Visqueen over the faced insulation would cause moisture to be trapped between the two layers of vapor barrier. The facing on the insulation is not a perfect fit so as to be a continuous vapor barrier like a long sheet of Visqueen is. Would it be wise to tape up the tears in the facing, and to run a strip of tape down the stud to seal up the gap between bat facings? Or would it more prudent to just put Visqueen over the whole wall?"

I would definitely put Visqueen damp-proof membrane over the kraft in your climate. Water vapor moving from the interior of the home to the exterior will be greatly slowed at the Visqueen membrane. A 6 mil thick Visqueen membrane is about 10 times stronger than kraft paper so any water vapor that passes through the Visqueen will go through the kraft paper and not be trapped between the two.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:38 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 21, 2006

Energy saving insulation also helps control noise

If they think about it at all, most people consider insulation as something that will only help manage heat and cold. For that reason, Owens Corning recently launched a Quiet Down America Tour to spread the word about how fiberglass insulation and other building products can also help control residential noise. The Tour is now visiting leading home shows throughout the country to highlight ways Americans can incorporate the element of "shhhhh!" in their home. The Tour demonstrates state-of-the-art QuietZone product solutions which, when used together, can reduce airborne and structural noise by up to 85 percent. Attendees hear a live noise comparison of common household appliances through an untreated wall and a wall treated with the company's highest level noise control, QuietZone® Quiet Retreats™. In the end, visitors come away with an expanded understanding of insulation that includes the word "quiet."

Posted by Pink Panther in Owens Corning at 09:46 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 18, 2006

Question: Should I replace wet insulation?

Tammy writes from Falls Creek, Pennsylvania: "Should fiberglass insulation be replaced after it has gotten wet? There has been a water leak in the attic and the insulation has gotten wet. Will it still insulate well now?"

When fiberglass insulation becomes wet with water, such as most rain and/or supply water, it will temporarily lose a substantial measure of its thermal resistance (R-value). In this case the spaces between the fibers that were previously occupied by air are now occupied by water. Since water is a much better conductor of heat than air, the water presence would cause the insulation to have reduced thermal performance. However, this is only a temporary situation. As soon as the water evaporates and the insulation becomes dry again, it will regain its original performance level.

In addition, since fiberglass insulation does not absorb water, the insulation fibers will not be structurally altered or permanently affected in any other way. The material will essentially be as good as new after it becomes dry, provided it has not lost thickness.

Also, Owens Corning FIBERGLAS Insulation meets ASTM C1338, "Standard Test Method for Determining Fungi Resistance of Insulation Materials and Facings."

Now, if the product has been saturated with dirty or contaminated water, Owens Corning recommends that it be replaced. Here is the reasoning: when the water evaporates, deposits of foreign materials that remain may decrease the R-value, and may also give mold and or mildew nourishment and a place to propagate. This growth, and/or odor (Yuck!), may then also be transferred to other building materials.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions , Owens Corning at 07:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 17, 2006

DOE releases energy-saving tool for manufacturers

The U.S. Department of Energy has distributed Save Energy Now CD-ROMs to 3,500 large industrial plant managers across the nation as part of an initiative to help cut excessive energy use at industrial facilities. The Save Energy Now CD contains a wealth of products and information tailored to help plant managers and engineers save on energy costs, with an emphasis on reducing natural gas consumption. DOE is also helping manufacturers by performing no-cost energy assessments of 200 large industrial facilities' energy systems. Results of the assessments will be shared as best practices. For information about Save Energy Now, go to DOE's Industrial Technologies Program Website. You can order the CD-ROM through the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Information Center.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News , Online Energy Resources at 07:46 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 16, 2006

Comment: Solving a wet attic problem

Brian writes from Canada: "I have read a number of your responses to heat loss from homes and nowhere do you mention air sealing of surfaces (especially attics) before or while adding insulation. In attics, unsealed vapour retarders and increased attic ventilation will usually not solve a wet attic problem. Dry out the damp house below and stop the upward moist air leakage from the house, then increased attic ventilation and vapour barriers are not needed!!!"

Thanks, Brian. I hope this is helpful to readers who have a wet attic problem.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:03 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 15, 2006

Higher costs spur energy efficiency investments in Ukraine

A recent article in the International Herald Tribune reminds us that money still talks when it comes to energy efficiency. According to the report, some of the largest enterprises in Ukraine are now investing hundreds of millions of dollars on new equipment and other measures to save energy. For many years businesses there enjoyed subsidized prices for energy, giving them little incentive to reduce the use of energy resources. The change of heart comes after Gazprom, Russia's state-owned energy company, ended decades of subsidized natural gas prices for Ukraine by doubling the cost of its gas exports in January. The price is expected to rise further next year, probably to world market prices. Interesting article; check it out.

Posted by Pink Panther in Energy News at 07:26 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 14, 2006

Question: How do I insulate a bonus room?

Beth writes from Perrysburg, Ohio: "We have a 'bonus room' in our house that is freezing in the winter, roasting in the summer. One wall is interior to the home; one wall is exterior with a window. The problem is the north and south walls. They have small (3') doors that open to attic space. There is some insulation in there, but not much. The horizontal surface has some pink insulation, some blown insulation, and the vertical surfaces facing the room have foam insulation. We bought a bunch of unfaced insulation; where do we put it?? If we put it on the vertical parts, can we staple it up since there is already foam there?"

The unfaced insulation you purchased can be placed on the floor of the attic space behind your knee walls and it can be placed in the walls themselves if you don't already have insulation in them. If the walls are already insulated, I suggest placing rigid foam insulation over the studs. This will do a couple of things to help reduce heat transfer through the wall. First, it reduces the amount of air infiltration, and second, it reduces the heat transfer through the framing. If you still have problems after insulating you may want to look at the HVAC system. Most bonus rooms tend to be either hotter or colder due to the extra exterior surfaces.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:08 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 11, 2006

Basement Finishing System qualifies for tax credit

My friends at Owens Corning tell me their Basement Finishing System™ wall panels have been approved by the U.S. Department of Energy as a qualifying product for the homeowner tax credit made possible this year and next by the Energy Policy Act of 2005. In fact, they say the Owens Corning system is the ONLY basement remodeling solution to qualify for the Energy Tax Credit. Insulated basement walls can save up to 25 percent on heating and cooling costs. To learn more about how you can save energy, save up to $500 and get more space for living, click here. The Owens Corning certificate for energy saving products is also online, along with accompanying information. An Internal Revenue Service notice is available from the IRS.

Posted by Pink Panther Online Energy Resources , Owens Corning , Tax Credits and Incentives at 10:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 10, 2006

Question: Is there research on 2x6 wall construction

Steve writes from Spartanburg, South Carolina: "Has there been any research done to compare a 2x6 wall construction fully insulated vs. a 2x4 wall construction fully insulated? Would the energy savings pay for the extra material cost (disregarding labor)? What is the best insulated wall system for a home from the outside (using brick or stone) to the inside? Could you also give me information on the ceiling/roof and the floor/crawl space? I know of a person who installed a 'foil' of some kind against his rafters. He says this keeps his attic several degrees cooler in the summer than his neighbor's house without it? What do you know about this?"

A 2x6 wall is a better wall and will pay for itself. As to how long it will take to pay for itself is hard to say due to the large variation in building material and energy costs. When using a brick or stone veneer I feel a better wall would be one that encompasses rigid PINK foam on the exterior. Foam board reduces the heat transfer that occurs through the framing and slows the moisture drive that can happen when a wet brick wall heats up from the sun. A 2x4 wall with 1 inch foam has a better system R-value than a 2x6 wall with no foam. Radiant barriers in the attic do reduce the attic temperature but they can increase the temperature of the roof, which could reduce the life of the shingles. Adding insulation to the floor of the attic will have a greater impact than the foil on the energy efficiency of the home, provided you can add insulation to the floor. Even if you can reduce the attic temperature with a radiant barrier you really have not done anything to reduce the heat gain to the living space of the house.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 09, 2006

Owens Corning first to meet new GREENGUARD standard

Although it is not "new" news, I haven't commented on it before so today I want to tell you that in March, a month before I started this Save Energy blog, the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute announced that Owens Corning was the first insulation manufacturer to qualify for their new GREENGUARD Product Emission Standard for Children and Schools. The GREENGUARD Environmental Institute developed the school certification in response to rising concern over illnesses such as asthma and respiratory illness that are sometimes associated with poor indoor air quality. The Environmental Protection Agency estimates that half of U.S. schools have indoor air quality problems, which are blamed for reducing student's performance on mental tasks requiring concentration, calculation and memory. Owens Corning distributed a news release listing the products included in the certification.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News , Green Design , Owens Corning at 12:22 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 08, 2006

Question: How do I use foam with finished attic space?

Rick writes from Ocean City, Maryland: "I'm finishing off a portion of my attic space. It is a large room with walk-up stairs. I only plan on finishing one half of the attic and the walk-up stairs. There will be a finished wall facing the stairs. Beyond that wall will be an unfinished storage area that will be accessible by an insulated door. I am thinking about how to best insulate that wall. I intend to place fiberglass insulation with the vapor barrier facing the living area side. I would like to place 'sheathing' or rigid foam insulation product on the unfinished room side of that wall to prevent heat transmission through the wood framing. I now see that the FOAMULAR insulation must be covered with drywall. Does this mean I have to finish both sides??? I have a knee wall also. The research that I have seen suggests adding FOAMULAR to the outside side of a knee wall for additional insulation. It doesn't say anything about covering that with an additional layer of sheathing. What should I do?"

In most code jurisdictions FOAMULAR can be left exposed on the attic side provided you have drywall on the interior side. A friend of mine put PINK FOAMULAR on the knee walls when he built his home and the local building inspector had no issues with that.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 07, 2006

Boeing says composites are the future for fuel efficiency

Reports from the Farnborough Airshow in England indicate that Boeing is committed to using more composite materials in the future to make lighter planes and consume less fuel. All Headline News quotes Boeing Commercial Airplanes President and CEO Alan Mulally as saying all future planes will be made out of composites because the material is lighter and resists fatigue and corrosion. He told AHN Boeing plans to use 50 percent composites materials in all of its future models. In a news release issued at the time of the airshow, Boeing said the company and its partners will begin testing of a full-scale 787 Dreamliner composite wing box in August as part of the certification process of the all-new jetliner. The test piece measures approximately 17 feet front spar to rear spar and 50 feet from airplane centerline to the tip of the composite structure. It is 4 feet deep at the thickest section. Weighing 55,000 pounds, including a great deal of test-only hardware and instrumentation, the composite wing box was designed and built by a team of Boeing, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries and Fuji Heavy Industries. A report on Aero-News.net says all-new designs in the future are expected to incorporate composite technology developed for the Dreamliner.

Posted by Pink Panther at 07:09 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 04, 2006

Question: How do I insulate with new siding?

Jeff writes again from Mansfield, Massachusetts: "Thanks for your help with the previous question. It worked out well. I have a house built in the early 70s. We are going to re-side it with vinyl siding. It has 2 X 4 wood framed exterior walls with rigid foam insulation between stud bays. I doubt if the walls are even R-11. I'd like to increase the R-value of the walls by removing the existing vinyl, apply rigid insulation to the plywood sheathing, wrap the house with a house wrap material, and then reside with vinyl. My questions are about products, fasteners, and application process, and how to create the most R-value (remember, I live in MA (02048) where the winter is 8 months long):
  • What insulation should I use and what thickness?
  • How do you fasten the insulation to the existing plywood siding? How do you fasten up the siding over the insulation?
  • How thick can the insulation be and still find a fastener for the siding that will penetrate deep enough that it will hold the siding on?
  • What house wrap, or are they all the same?
  • Is it possible to seal the house up too tight?
  • Do you have anything I could read about this?"

Thanks for writing, Jeff. You are the first reader to send a second question -- or in your case, a second list of questions. Here we go:

  • Any of the Owens Corning PINK FOAMULAR products can be used. I recommend 1 inch thick, provided you can accommodate the space.
  • Plastic cap nails of the appropriate thickness can be used to attach the foam.
  • The siding is fastened as it would be with new construction, just use longer nails.
  • I have seen siding/roofing nails as long as 3 inches so you shouldn't have any trouble using even thicker than 1 inch foam.
  • If you choose to use housewrap, I naturally recommend Owens Corning PINKWRAP housewrap. But housewrap really isn't needed if you tape the seams of the foam. In that case I recommend PINK Bild-R-Tape Construction Tape.
  • Not really. You want a house to breath, but you want to control how it breaths through the HVAC system.
  • The Energy Star Website has information you can read about home sealing.

Posted by Pink Panther in Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:53 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 03, 2006

Hot climate "myth-tery" for summer reading

Does this summer's heat wave have you looking for something to read in the comfort of your air conditioned home? Consider an article by newspaper columnist Ken Sheinkopf in the Fort Wayne (Ind.) News-Sentinel. The article explodes 12 myths about home energy efficiency and hot climates. Sheinkopf credits the information to Danny Parker, a researcher at the Florida Solar Energy Center, who put together the "12 Great Myths of Improving Residential Efficiency in Hot Climates." FortWayne.com doesn't mention it but the FSEC Website says Sheinkopf is an Associate Director of the Florida Solar Energy Center. A vested interest in solar energy, perhaps, but interesting and educational nonetheless.

Posted by Pink Panther in Energy Efficiency Tips at 09:40 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 02, 2006

Calculating home energy use online

MarketWatch, a Website from Dow Jones, recently published an article about home energy use calculators that includes several interesting links to such calculators. Some of the calculators are quite comprehensive, allowing consumers to determine the power consumed by nearly every appliance in a home. They can even gauge the cost of using a single light bulb. The article says the calculators and the questions they are based on are most helpful in building awareness about things like cost of outdated refrigerators and insufficient insulation. When reading the article you should also be aware that Energy Star also has a calculator on its Home Energy Saver Website. Entering your Zip Code will reveal the average energy bill in your area and the projected utility cost of an energy efficient home. You can get to the Home Energy Saver site from the Owens Corning Website, where there are three more calculators for consumers. The easiest and quickest gives you the DOE recommended R-values for a home in your Zip Code. An Insulation Project Calculator has only a few more questions. The Home Report Card® Quiz takes you through a series of questions and covers more than insulation. Be prepared to spend some time with these calculators; the savings may make you glad you did.

Posted by Pink Panther in Energy Efficiency Tips , Online Energy Resources , Owens Corning at 07:28 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

August 01, 2006

First half of 2006 is warmest on record for U.S.

At the halfway point, 2006 is shaping up to be the warmest year on record for the United States. According to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), preliminary data show the average January to June temperature for the 48 contiguous states was 51.8 degrees Fahrenheit, which is 3.4 degrees F above average during the 20th Century. The heat is taxing electrical power systems while a continuing drought is depleting hydropower resources. The year is also shaping up to be the sixth warmest on record for the globe, with January to June average temperatures at 0.9 degrees F above the 20th-Century mean. For more information see the press release and analysis from NOAA's National Climatic Data Center. And if you didn't noticed, July was pretty warm as well with a heat wave setting records across much of the country. For information about July, see the press releases from the Long Island Power Authority and the California Independent System Operator. Throw on another blanket of PINK FIBERGLAS insulation!

Posted by Pink Panther in Energy News at 06:54 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

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