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January 31, 2007

Question: Does it matter if the batts are faced?

Peter writes from Saint Paul, Minnesota: "I was planning to insulate a 2x4 cathedral ceiling with R-13 batts in the cavities and 1" Foamular attached to the interior side of the rafters. Does it matter if the batts are faced or not? Is it necessary to tape the seams of the Foamular?"

Answer: In your area you should use Kraft-faced insulation. Taping the seams is recommended but not required. I am not sure exactly what you have in mind for your total assembly but remember that building codes generally require covering foam insulation with a product having a 15 minute thermal barrier, such as gypsum drywall, for fire safety.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:20 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 26, 2007

Question: How's everything going with you?

Jim writes from Barrington, New Jersey: "Hey there Pinkie! How's everything going with you; any good? I know being spokescat for owens corning has been a part of your career since 1980 but what ever happened to David H. DePatie your co-creator, the man that made you and how come you have not been in any brand new Pink Panther shorts for this decade I really want to see you in new adventures. I miss you and I love ya a lot."

Answer: Mr. DePatie is a very active participant in the Pink Panther franchise and was kind enough to write an introduction for the quintessential Pink Panther book - PINK PANTHER: The Ultimate Guide to the Coolest Cat in Town!

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther at 11:40 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 24, 2007

Question: How should I insulate my new 2x6 walls?

Kevin writes from Wyoming, New York: "Recently 'gutted' my walls inside and out to replace 2x4's with 2x6's, where I then tyveked(sp?) the exterior and r-19 (pinked!) the walls. I burn wood (live in western NY) and have as yet to install a range hood. I had to remove some PINK to reroute a wire when I found damp exterior walls (from behind the PINK). I assume it's from interior dampness. I have since put up a 3Mil plastic interior barrier and have been told it's NOT a wise move. Your thoughts, suggestions?"

Answer: First, you need to find the source of the dampness. Was the housewrap taped? If there is a high moisture issue in the walls it is not a good idea to use a poly. It is too strong of a vapor barrier. Very similar to a basement wall application, you will want to use a weaker vapor barrier such as Kraft paper so the cavity can breathe somewhat.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:25 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 22, 2007

Question: What do you suggest to get rid of the draft and cold?

Linda writes from Elyria, Ohio: "Just had the wood siding removed, the house wrapped, and foam backed vinyl siding put on a 1920's home. Problem-it is so cold and drafty that you cannot stand to be in the house below 52 degrees. The furnace never shuts down. Even though the thermostat reads 80, it is very cold. The unfinished attics have round soffits and ridge vents. One attic has R-13 as a ceiling (rafters are about 10 feet above). The walls are R-11. The second attic has about 4 inches of blown insulation under the floor. What do you suggest be done to get rid of the draft and cold? Never had this problem before the new siding was installed."

Answer: Ouch! My technical friends and I are as puzzled as you are about the cause of the problem. If all you did was install housewrap and foam-backed siding, the situation should definitely be much better than it was before, not worse. Our only suggestion is to contact the siding installer because they may have left an opening in the envelope somewhere. Good luck.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:46 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 19, 2007

Question: How should I insulate basement walls?

Jorge writes from Wilmington, Delaware: "I live in a 50 yr old split level home and down stairs in the conditioned family room one of the walls is half masonry half drywall (if you're looking at the wall the upper half is the main level and the lower half is the foundation wall that faces the crawl space) and it's always colder than the rest of the house. Should I or can I insulate that wall to keep the hot air from escaping into the crawl space and keeping the cold air from coming in, and if so how? The sub floor is already insulated w/r19 insulation. Any advice would be greatly appreciated."

Answer: That's another easy one, Jorge. The answer can be found on the Owens Corning website. Click on the words Basement Walls and Foamular® Rigid Foam Insulation for Basement Walls you will see instructions for the project you describe, including pictures. One page describes the process for using PINK fiberglass insulation and the other one covers PINK foam insulation. Either method should help keep that space warmer.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:23 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 18, 2007

Take the quiz and spread the word

Two months ago the Alliance to Save Energy, the American Gas Association (AGA) and 28 partners launched an energy awareness campaign with an interactive website called the "6 degree of Energy Efficiency Challenge". Among the objectives of the campaign and website is informing consumers that increasing and wasteful energy use affects six key areas of our lives - the energy prices we pay at the pump and in our homes, our home comfort, the air we breathe and our respiratory health, our energy security, our economic well-being, and the world we leave behind. The website also provides six easy energy-efficiency tips consumers can implement in their own homes and vehicles. One of the fun aspects of the website is a six-question quiz that tests your energy efficiency knowledge. The Pink Panther answered five out of the six correctly. Can you do better?

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 17, 2007

Question: How should I install faced insulation under my floor?

Bob writes from Portland, Oregon: "I would like to install faced insulation (R19) under my floor. I have 4 feet between support beams with 2x6 tongue and groove for subfloor. How would I install 23 inch wide rolls?"

Answer: That's an easy one, Bob. The answer to your question can be found on the Owens Corning website. For more information, click here on the word Crawlspace and you will see complete instructions for the project you describe, including pictures.

Three points to keep in mind: (1) Always install the insulation with the vapor retarder toward the warm side of the structure in heating climates such as yours. In a vented crawlspace, the warm side is usually up, closest to the floor. (2) Once the insulation is in place between the floor joists, insulation hangers or nylon straps should be used to hold the product in place. (3) A 4- or 6-mil. polyethylene vapor retarder should be laid down to completely cover the ground.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:24 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 16, 2007

Website helps consumers save money and the environment

From time to time I have posted links to websites offering information for homeowners about saving energy and money. I recently came across another such resource and thought I would pass it along. The website has the title Save Money & Save the Environment but the key premise for both of those good outcomes is buying energy efficient products for the home. The site is sponsored by the Consumer Federation of America, which was founded in 1968 as a nonprofit research, education and advocacy organization. CFA provides information to the public on consumer issues and assists over 250 affiliated national, state and local organizations representing 50 million consumers. The only shortcoming of the site from my PINK perspective is that it understates the opportunity to save money and the environment by adding insulation. The attic is one of the most cost-effective and easiest places to insulate, yet 80 percent of homes built before 1980 are not insulated to proper government standards. For many homeowners, adding insulation to the attic will result in immediate savings on home energy costs.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:50 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 15, 2007

Question: Were the insulation batts installed correctly?

Mary writes from Rochester, News York: "We live in a frame house built in 1920. There is loose insulation in the attic floor. There is no heat to the attic; it naturally flows from the second floor when the door is opened. We added 4" foil-faced insulation between the roof joists with the foil facing the interior. The attic space was finished with wallboard ceiling and knee walls. Questions: Were the batts installed correctly with the foil facing the interior? To increase the R-value, can we add 2" panels of rigid insulation over the batts? We would attach them directly to the joists with a glue product. We are hoping that adding insulation to the roof would help in preventing snow melt/ice dam problems."

Answer: Yes the foil facing would face the interior. Although FOAMULAR® insulation was not designed for the application you describe I do not see any problem with it. Keep in mind that codes generally require covering foam insulation with a 15 minute thermal barrier for fire safety.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:02 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 13, 2007

Question: Can I better insulate the garage ceiling?

Bill writes from Sudbury, Massachusetts: "My family room is over the garage. The floor gets very cold and I would like to know if I can better insulate the garage ceiling in order to keep the family room floor from getting so cold. The garage ceiling is finished and the 8" joist space already contains R-11. Other than having a contractor blow in foam, is there anything I can do to make a difference with the cold floor?"

Answer: If the ceiling in the garage was still open or easily accessible, you could add an extra layer of R-11 insulation in the cavity. It would also be important to make sure the band joists are insulated. Those are the areas at the end of every joist run. If those are not insulated, cool air will get above the insulation just underneath the floor.

With your finished ceiling in the garage, that is probably not an option so we recommend having a professional evaluate the situation and handle it for you. What you describe can be a little complicated for a homeowner. There may be a need to remove siding and drill into the band joist to insulate. Even that option may not work and that is why we recommend a professional.

I don't know what type of floor you have in the room above the ceiling but carpet with padding will also help with comfort and warmth.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:07 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 10, 2007

Question: Would adding more insulation to the ceiling of my garage make a difference?

Jason writes from Sod, West Virginia: "I have a 30'x40' garage with a 12' ceiling heated with a gas furnace which hangs from the ceiling. It is totally open with exception of a bathroom. The furnace heats it quickly but it cools down very fast. The ceiling has R-19 insulation and the walls are R-13 both ceiling and walls are covered with 1/2" plywood. Would adding more insulation to the ceiling make a difference?"

Answer: Yes it will help. The more insulation added to the existing attic insulation the more R-value you will achieve. A higher R-value means a higher resistance to heat loss. You may also want to double check the envelope of the entire structure for other areas of possible heat loss.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:35 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 09, 2007

Newsweek article says it's easy to be green

With no apologies to Kermit the Frog and his bluesy lament about the difficulties of being green, Newsweek magazine published an article that says it is really Easy to Be Green. The fun and informative report in the January 8 issue includes 10 simple tips for living greener in 2007. My favorite is number 10 but I won't spoil your fun by repeating it here. From my perspective, viewing the world as I do through PINK glasses, the article misses one easy tip - adding insulation in the attic, which is a quick and easy way to reduce your home's carbon footprint and cut your heating and cooling bills, if you haven't done so already. Here's to a happy new PINK and green 2007!

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:15 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 08, 2007

Question: Is it necessary to install insulation stops between every rafter?

Russell writes: "Is it necessary to install insulation stops between each and every rafter for attic ventilation or can you go, say, every third space?"

Answer: Keep in mind that the more vents at the soffits, the more ventilation you will achieve, which is a good thing. More ventilation will help result in a longer life for your roof. You may want to check updated code requirements in your area for ventilation requirements. Minimum ventilation is one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space (1/300). Owens Corning recommends a 1/150 ratio.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:08 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 05, 2007

Question: How do I add insulation to an attic with a floor?

Barbara writes from Warren, Pennsylvania: "I have a 1927 house that has an unfinished attic with a pine-board floor. The previous owner blew in insulation under the floor boards, but the insulation is inadequate. I have looked at a lot of websites, but haven't found my situation. Should I pull up the floor and take out the old insulation (how do I know if it contains asbestos?) or can I insulate the unfinished ceiling of the attic running baffles all the way up for ventilation?

"One more thing: I had a new roof put on this past year and instead of putting the roof vent on the ridge, they installed three fans, essentially - square holes in the roof with a cover that ventilate the attic - I assume I should run the baffles all the way up to these vents - how much space do I leave between the vents and the insulation?"

Answer: Your best option is to install new insulation in the rafters. Detailed installation instructions can be found at owenscorning.com on the project page for cathedral ceilings.

With regard to your question about insulation coming in contact with the power vent, we do not have any information about that. We only have recommendations for insulating around can lights which must be IC rated for the insulation to come in contact with them. If the lights are not IC rated, the insulation must stay 3 inches away. We recommend calling the manufacturer of the vent to find out if fiberglass insulation can come in contact with their product.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:29 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 03, 2007

Question: Where did all the energy come from?

Leonie writes from somewhere in the world: "Why do we need and use energy? Where did all the energy come from? When was energy brought to these worldly lives of ours? Who was the first person to find out about energy and its different types of energy? How do we use energy? Why do we need and use energy?"

Answer: Good questions! You obviously have a very inquisitive mind. While I am generally credited with being a very clever guy, I must admit that I don't have the answers to all of those questions. I'll bet the first person to find out about energy was a cave man or woman who noticed that fire, probably started by lightening, was nice and warm. Later someone figured out how to start a fire without lightening and found that some things burned easier than others. To find some real answers about energy, I suggest you visit a few online resources that cover the topic of energy. A good starting place is the Alliant Energy Kids website and its page about Energy Basics. Other good sources I have listed previously include the California Energy Commission website that presents The Energy Story, and the online Coal Research Tutorial from the Argonne National Laboratory.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:16 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

January 02, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a new room in a high humidity area?

Lisa writes from Cocoa Beach, Florida: "I am converting a covered porch to an under a/c family room. It has a flat roof with 9.5" of space between the decking and bottom of support beams. I live in a coastal area of central Florida where the heat is intense and the humidity high. HELP! What insulation and application should I use?!"

Answer: The first thing you need to do is find out what R-value your code requires in that application. You also need to find out if the code for your area requires a vapor barrier and, if so, which way it faces. High humidity areas can be very tricky when it comes to the use of a vapor barrier. This is why I don't want to guess, but rather have you get an accurate answer from your building code official. You should be able to reach that person, or someone else who can help you, by calling the local Building Department, whether that is county, city, village or whatever.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:08 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

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