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February 28, 2007

Question: Where can I buy the PINKCap® attic stair insulator?

Dennis writes from Atlanta, Georgia: "Where can I purchase the PINK Cap (polystyrene foam) cover for attic stair openings?"

Answer: Go to the Owens Corning Website and look for the words Where to Buy in the upper right corner of the home page. Enter your Zip Code and click on the red button labeled GO. On the next page, click on the link at the bottom of the section labeled Find a Retail Store Location. On the following page check FOAMULAR® Foam Insulation and click on Next. The following page will ask you to indicate the radius you are willing to travel to visit a store, ranging from five to 100 miles. After checking the radius you prefer and clicking on Next, you will see a list of retail stores in your area that carry Owens Corning foam insulation products. You should call and check the availability of the PINKCap® attic stair insulator.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions , Owens Corning at 08:28 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 27, 2007

Question: Which way should vapor barrier face?

Mark writes from New Bedford, Massachusetts: "I have garage under house the floor is insulated face to heat with vapor barrier. I intend to insulate garage ceiling creating 10 inch space under this insulation I will sheet rock. Which way should vapor barrier face? Garage is not heated and 10 inch space will have plenty of ventilation from heated basement."

Answer: If there is already faced insulation under the floor of the living space, I would not recommend using faced insulation but rather unfaced insulation instead.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 26, 2007

Question: Would it be economically sensible to add furring strips to existing studs to allow for more insulation?

Robert writes from Tehama, California: "I have a 1950s one story ranch style house, which I am remodeling. I have removed the sheetrock from the exterior walls in order to update the wiring and other reasons. The studs are 2x4s. The question is, would it be economically sensible to add 2x2 furring strips to the existing studs to allow for a greater thickness of insulation than can be placed in the wall cavities formed by the 2x4s?"

Answer: Yes, furring out the walls will allow the use of R-19 or high-density R 21 insulation in the walls. You should definitely notice a difference in your heating and cooling costs.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:45 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 23, 2007

Question: Why don't you post a guide of sizes, etc.?

Alan writes from Phoenix, Arizona: "Why don't you post a guide of sizes, and coverages, difference between batts, roll, faced, unfaced, soft. rigid, etc.?"

Answer: That's an interesting idea but I am told it is not likely to happen because sizes and availability range from region to region and change frequently. You will need to call or check in your local area for the availability of our products.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:09 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 21, 2007

Question: Should i put furring strips above the joist to allow air to circulate?

Ed writes from Greensburg, Pennsylvania: "I need to put a floor in my attic for storage space. I have put 6 1/4 fiberglass insulation in my attic (w/vapor barrier). Should I put furring strips above the joist to allow the air to circulate under the plywood?

Also would I increase the energy efficiency by adding additional insulation around the perimeter of the plywood floor (the outer 4' perimeter of the attic)?"

Answer: There is no need for furring strips or an air space below the new attic floor. I would also add insulation around the perimeter of the attic floor. In most climates the U.S. Department of Energy recommends a total of 12 to 16 inches of fiberglass insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:50 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 19, 2007

Question: Which is the proper way to install R19 insulation?

Claire writes from Huntington Station, New York: "Which is the proper way to install R19 insulation? I am putting the insulation on the ceiling of an unfinished basement. Should the paper go up against the ceiling, so when you look up you see pink, or pink up, paper down?"

Answer: The paper should go up toward the living space, sometimes referred to as the warm side in winter. If the basement is unfinished and also unheated, the vapor barrier should be on the side closest to the heated living space above.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:02 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 16, 2007

Question: Is it necessary to install a shield to keep insulation from touching IC-rated can lights?

Adam writes from Lake Zurich, Illinois: "When insulating around IC-rated can lights, is it necessary to install any type of sheathing or shield to keep the insulation from touching the light? Is there any difference for blown insulation in regards to this question?"

Answer: There is no need to install a sheathing or shield. IC-rated lights can come in contact with the insulation. There is no difference with regard to blown-in insulation; it can be blown directly over IC-rated lights.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:40 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 14, 2007

Question: Should I use faced insulation over very old insulation?

Joe writes from Kendall Park, New Jersey: "I own a ranch style home. I have an old layer of insulation in my attic that was installed in the early 1960s. I would like to place a second layer of insulation over the original for added warmth. Most websites recommend that I use an "unfaced" layer to avoid condensation problems. However, the original insulation is so old (it falls apart if you attempt to move it) that I am concerned that there is a not a good existing vapor barrier.

"As a result, should I use faced insulation to create an adequate vapor barrier or should I use unfaced?

"If I choose faced insulation, is there a way to check to see if I do have a condensation problem in between the 2 layers?"

Answer: It would be wise to use unfaced insulation to avoid having a double vapor barrier. Although there may be some holes or tears in the current vapor barrier, that is better than having a second vapor barrier.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:59 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 13, 2007

Question: What can we do about an icicle problem?

M.B. writes from Milwaukee, Wisconsin: "We have a major problem with icicles hanging from the gutters of our home. There was blown insulation in the attic of our 2 story, 1954 age home. We added additional rolled insulation on top. The snow melts during the sunny day and drips and freezes at night. Do we have not enough insulation or too much insulation on the floor of our attic? Other homes in our neighborhood don't seem to have as much snow melting from their roof and creating this problem. What needs to be done?"

Answer: Check to make sure your attic ventilation is not blocked and that there is an equal amount in the soffit as there is in the roof. You may also have excess warm air infiltrating into the attic from the house via cracks or gaps around electrical and plumbing fixtures. For example, any a pipe, electrical wire or junction box that penetrates the ceiling should be sealed with spray foam or caulk.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:09 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 12, 2007

Question: Is there any benefit to running duct tape over the flanges after they have been stapled to the studs?

"R" writes from Jamaica, New York: "I have used duct tape to repair the paper vapor retarder. I'm curious, is there any benefit to running duct tape over the flanges after they have been stapled to the studs?"

Answer: There may be some extremely minimal benefit in thermal performance but to be honest I don't think it is worth all the extra work. You can probably have a greater impact by adding more insulation in the attic, switching to compact fluorescent light bulbs or sealing out any air coming through penetrations for electrical wires, plumbing or utility boxes.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:54 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 09, 2007

Question: Should I be concerned about discoloration on wiring cable and vapor barrier?

Gerry writes from Tarrytown, New York: "I installed your R-19 faced insulation between the joists in my unfinished attic a few years ago, vapor barrier down, and laid R-25 unfaced at a right-angle on top of that. Big difference in the heating bills! My question: I recently rolled back some of that insulation, and see that wherever the paper facing is in contact with Romex NM wiring, a brown, gummy, creosote-like residue appears on the cable sheating and the paper. What is the cause of this - and is it something I need to be concerned about?"

Answer: Most likely what is happening is that as the wire heats up during use it warms the paper facing enough for the asphalt coating on the paper to bleed through. The easiest way to prevent it from happening is to remove the paper in the area of the wire. I also suggest having the wiring checked to make sure the circuit is not overloaded and/or the wiring is not faulty.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 07, 2007

Question: What should I do about air trapped under window film?

Pranay writes from Downingtown, Pennsylvania: "I just placed a plastic film to insulate my family room windows during the winter - after having placed the film around my windows (it was a difficult process), I noticed that some air still seems trapped between the window and the film. Is that normal? If not, can that hurt my windows when I remove the film in the spring?"

Answer: Thanks for the question but the topic is really outside my expertise and the expertise of my friends at Owens Corning. You should contact the film maker or the window maker. Good luck.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:00 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 05, 2007

Question: Can I paint over foam insulation?

John writes from Lake Harmony, Pennsylvania: "I AM INSTALLING YOUR PINK RIGID FOAM INSULATION IN MY BASEMENT - CAN YOU PAINT OVER THIS, IF SO WHAT TYPE OF PAINT IS REQUIRED OR RECOMMENDED?"

Answer: Sorry, John, but building codes generally require covering foam insulation with a 15 minute thermal barrier for fire safety. If you use drywall for that, you can paint the drywall. I prefer PINK but you can use any color you want.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:59 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

February 02, 2007

Question: How much insulation do I need in the attic?

Joseph writes from Rochester, New York: "I have a 1100 square ft. ranch with baseboard heat and have about 7-8 inches of insulation and want to know how much insulation I need in the attic and how can I tell what my savings will be with the added insulation?"

Answer: We cannot tell you exactly what you will save because there are so many variables that we can't know for sure. I can tell you that the U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 for most areas of the United States. Based on this, I recommend adding R-30 to your attic. If possible, you should also try to air seal the ceiling. By that I mean sealing any penetrations for electrical wires, plumbing or utility boxes. Although we cannot tell you what your exact savings will be we know from experience that the additional insulation will probably pay for itself in a few years. You should also feel warmer and more comfortable during the winter months.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:37 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

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