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March 30, 2007

Question: What can we do about an icicle problem?

M.B. writes from Milwaukee, Wisconsin: "We have a major problem with icicles hanging from the gutters of our home. There was blown insulation in the attic of our 2 story, 1954 age home. We added additional rolled insulation on top. The snow melts during the sunny day and drips and freezes at night. Do we have not enough insulation or too much insulation on the floor of our attic? Other homes in our neighborhood don't seem to have as much snow melting from their roof and creating this problem. What needs to be done?"

Answer: Check to make sure your attic ventilation is not blocked and that there is an equal amount in the soffit as there is in the roof. You may also have excess warm air infiltrating into the attic from the house via cracks or gaps around electrical and plumbing fixtures. For example, any a pipe, electrical wire or junction box that penetrates the ceiling should be sealed with spray foam or caulk.

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March 29, 2007

Question: Do I need housewrap for this application?

Chris writes from Jacksonville, Florida: "I'm preparing to add insulation (blown in) between the ceiling joists in the attic of a small commercial building I own that was built in the '50s.

"The building originally had 1x3 furring strips nailed perpendicular to the bottoms of the ceiling joists with acoustical tiles stapled to bottom (interior side) of those furring strips. During a later remodel, the previous owner installed a suspended grid ceiling about a foot below the acoustical tiles with batts of unfaced insulation laid on top of the ceiling tiles. (I think that as of 2006, FL code no longer allows that practice.) I realize that insulation is not doing much the way it's installed.

"With the penetrations of the original acoustical tile ceiling (lots of places where electric conduit and AC vents were added to the grid ceiling down through the acoustical tile ceiling) I know I have large amounts of conditioned air moving up into the uninsulated attic and out through the ridge vent.

"I am thinking of using visqueen as an air block stapled to the tops of the ceiling joists before blowing in the insulation. Or do I need housewrap or something else for this? Am I thinking right here?"

Answer: You may want to inspect the existing insulation to make sure you do not have a vapor barrier already in place. If you are uncertain, I recommend using a housewrap that is breathable, such as the very nice PINKWRAP® housewrap from Owens Corning.

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March 28, 2007

Question: How much insulation do I need?

Paula writes from Dallas, Texas: "How much blown fiberglass insulation is needed to insulate 1850 sq. feet. Do you know of any reasonably priced contractors?"

Answer: Because specific insulation products vary by region, you will need to visit an insulation distributor, or call one, to find out which type of blown insulation is available in your area. Each type of blown insulation will have a conversion chart that provides that information you want. There is also a Data Sheet for each product that will have the coverage information.

To find a contractor, I recommend visiting the Owens Corning website. On the page for Certified Energy Professional® Contractors there is a link that will find a CEP contractor in your area. A Certified Energy Professional can recommend and install the proper levels of PINK fiber glass insulation for each application, make suggestions for upgrading, and can insulate homes for sound control. CEPs are trained in proper installation techniques and are knowledgeable of current building codes. All carry workers compensation and liability insurance but Owens Corning does not guarantee workmanship.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:50 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 27, 2007

Question: Should I tear out plaster and insulate the ceiling?

David writes from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: "I have a semi-finished attic. It is uninsulated with plaster on the ceiling. Is it worth it to insulate the hardwood floor between the 2nd floor and this attic space or should I spend the considerable amount of money to tear down the plaster and insulate the ceiling? I do not plan on using the attic and want to do this to save money on my heating bill."

Answer: If the attic is not going to be used or heated, it would be wise to just insulate between the floors (between the second story and the attic space).

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 26, 2007

Question: What are my options for insulating the ceiling?

Nick writes from Horace, North Dakota: "I just purchased a home in North Dakota where the winter months get cold. I plan on installing a garage heater and insulating the garage. My dilemma is that there is already sheetrock on the ceiling, but no vapor barrier or insulation was installed. What are my options for insulating the ceiling and obtaining proper moisture barrier protection?"

Answer: I recommend blowing fiber glass insulation directly over the sheetrock in the attic.

Some building codes do not require a vapor barrier in your situation if the attic space has sufficient ventilation. If you need a vapor barrier, I recommend getting a "paint on" vapor barrier. This paint can be found at any local paint shop. Some building codes do not require a vapor barrier in your situation if the attic space has sufficient ventilation. If you need a vapor barrier, I recommend getting a "paint on" vapor barrier. This paint can be found at any local paint shop.

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March 23, 2007

Question: How do mineral fiber and fiber glass insulations compare in STC ratings?

Randy writes from Effingham, Illinois: "WHAT IS THE STC COMPARISON BETWEEN MINERAL FIBER INSULATION AND FIBER GLASS?"

Answer: According to testing at the National Research Council Canada (NRC-CNRC) performance of the two products is essentially the same. Depending on the assembly, testing of equal thicknesses of mineral wool and fiber glass typically result in STC results within one to two points of each other. When one tests better than the other it is almost always the fiber glass. Remember that STC ratings are just a quick reference and an assembly that tests better for STC may not always be the best choice for a specific application.

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March 22, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a basement ceiling with varying widths between the joists?

John writes from Medford, Massachusetts: "Our home is 124 years old. The basement ceiling is not insulated. It also features varying widths between the joists with special surprises like nails and very old wiring stuffed here and there. Any advice?"

Answer: It can be insulated. First you would want to choose an R-value depending on the height of the floor joist. I would guess it's going to be R-19 to R-30. The most common widths for these products are 16" and 24". You need to determine the most common width to decide which will best fit. Since it seems the widths vary a great deal, I recommend using insulation netting. That will guarantee the insulation stays in place.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:26 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 21, 2007

Question: Should I use vapor barrier paint on interior drywall?

Lois writes from Arizona: "In Tucson, for new residential construction of aerated concrete block (AAC) with a standing seam metal roof, do I need to paint a vapor barrier on the ceiling after insulating the attic? Should I use vapor barrier paint on interior drywall?"

Answer: That is a question your local building code official will need to answer. Vapor barrier use and placement various throughout the U.S. depending on humidity levels.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:11 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 20, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a shipping container that will be used for storage?

Carl writes from Madison, Florida: "I am looking at getting a 40 foot shipping container for extra household storage. These are the containers that you see on semi trucks, trains, and ships. The ones I am looking at have wooden floors and steel walls and roof. I am in Florida and would like to insulate it from summer heat. Maybe run a small A/C to cool and dehumidify. (It is not unusual to have 94 degrees F and 94 % humidity). Size is roughly 40 feet long by 8 feet high by 8 feet wide with swinging doors on one end. No insulation is present. What can I do?"

Answer: You need to treat the container as if you are remodeling a house. You will need to frame some walls inside the container and insulate with fiberglass. Due to the high humidity in your region, you will have to call your local building code official about vapor barrier recommendations. High humidity areas sometimes don't require a vapor barrier or even place it to the exterior side of the wall.

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March 19, 2007

Question: Should I be concerned about trapping moisture in the wall?

Jeremy writes from Toronto, Ontario, Canada: "I live in a recently renovated 100+ year old house which was renovated by the previous owner. The walls are standard wood frame assembly. Gypsum board interior face, vapour barrier, wood stud between which there is fibreglass insulation.

"Question: I have replaced the windows and I am currently removing the exterior vinyl siding and tar paper substrate. I would like to apply a 2" thick layer of rigid insulation over the exterior face of the walls before installing new siding. I am concerned that I have 'trapped' or will trap moisture within the wall assembly between the 'warm' inside vapour barrier and exterior (impermeable) rigid insulation. Should I be concerned?"

Answer: No. Though 2" foam insulation (I recommend PINK FOAMULAR® insulation, naturally) has the characteristics of a vapor barrier, it cannot solely act as one. If you have multiple products with vapor barrier characteristics, you need to place the strongest vapor barrier nearest the warm air. Therefore, your application will work.

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March 17, 2007

Question: Will you answer my questions about sound proofing?

Craig writes from Bellbrook, Ohio: "I am getting ready to finish a basement and I want to add sound proofing in the basement ceiling (floor joists) so we don't hear the kids as much. I have heard various suggestions, but it sounds like unfaced fiberglass insulation is the best approach. 1) I was wondering if there was a dB attenuation chart as a function of R value or insulation thickness. 2) I am also leaning towards a suspended ceiling for access reasons and was wondering if there would be significant reasons against this approach (sound or fire). 3) Finally, for exterior walls I was planning on putting sheet plastic between the basement wall and the frame, but it sounds like this is not recommended any more. Should I avoid using plastic?"

Answer: 1. Your question about the sound absorbing performance of insulation cannot be answered due to the variety of factors that contribute to sound transmission or control In an assembly, insulation can contribute a loss of 3-10dB depending on thickness and the rest of the assembly's components. The first inch of insulation provides the most reduction. Typically, acoustic insulation is 3.5" because of this. Additional thickness does improve performance but the amount of improvement decreases per inch as you increase the thickness.

2. Many drop ceilings are acoustically rated and provide excellent sound attenuation. Adding insulation above the drop ceiling will increase the benefit.

3. Our recommendation is to not have a vapor barrier in the basement because there tend to be many vapor drives in different directions. We recommend controlling the humidity levels in the basement to prevent airborne moisture issues. If you are have any leak issues you will want to correct them prior to finishing your walls.

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March 16, 2007

Question: Would it make sense to put a vapor barrier over plyboard?

Melissa writes from Canada: "I have a 70 year old house. There is insulation behind the plyboard walls, but there is no vapor barrier on the insulation. I am drywalling all the walls. Would it make sense to put a vapor barrier over the plyboard and then put the drywall on?"

Answer: In this situation I recommend using a vapor barrier paint.

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March 15, 2007

Question: Can I add an extra vapor barrier?

"W" (not that W) writes from Cleveland, Ohio: "I am remodeling a addition to our home and have 3 outside walls with Kraft faced R-11 31/2" insulation in the walls, ripped out old paneling and drywall. I also want to use Film-Gard Polyethylene Sheeting Product #B0408 as an extra vapor/air/moisture barrier. Can I do this without any problems down the road? I also have some tears in the insulation; what can I do for those? Duct tape?"

Answer: The only way you can use two vapor barriers within one assembly is if the vapor barriers are in direct contact with each other.

Yes, you can repair small tears in Kraft paper with duct tape.

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March 12, 2007

Question: When is the moisture barrier required?

Jeff writes from Reynoldsville, Pennsylvania: "When is the moisture barrier on insulation required? I'm going to insulate my (non-heated) attic floor. Some people say that the moisture barrier is required and some say not."

Answer: Most communities require a vapor barrier. The local building code makes those decisions and any exceptions.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:03 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 11, 2007

Question: Can I place insulation on the floor of my attic?

Mike writes from Buffalo, New York: "I have an attic with flooring but I do not know what, if any, insulation is beneath the floor. Most of the attic is unused but there is a small corner I use for storage. Can I simply place insulation across the floor while leaving a small area uncovered to give access to the storage area? Furthermore, I have seen insulation that is completely enclosed in a plastic-type material. Would that be effective?"

Answer: That will work but you need to know if the band joists are insulated. The band joists are the vertical ending of the floor joist. That completely enclosed insulation you saw is no longer manufactured. It was enclosed for handling purposes rather than the performance of the insulation.

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March 07, 2007

Question: Can I slide foam board between the roof rafter and finished lath?

David writes again from Arlington, Massachusetts: "Can I slide your foam board insulation between the roof rafter (16 inch on center - true 2x8) and the finished lath sloping ceiling? Or do you sell some other product that would work?"

Answer: We do not recommend FOAMULAR® insulation for this application. Instead, consider using PINK fiberglass insulation. Detailed installation instructions can be found at owenscorning.com on the project page for cathedral ceilings.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:30 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 06, 2007

Question: How do I insulate a sunroom?

Karen writes from Fairfax, Virginia: "I have a sunroom that sits on stilts (so there is about 8 feet of airspace below the room's flooring. I want to replace the current R8 insulation in the room's floor (which I can access from below). Can I add new R30 insulation on top of the R8 or do I remove the R8 first? And how do I handle insulation? Do I need gloves or anything?"

Answer: You can insulate directly over the current insulation using an unfaced product. I recommend using gloves, protective eyewear and a mask. Although fiberglass insulation is not dangerous it can be irritating to the skin.

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March 05, 2007

Question: Is it feasible to stucco over foam board?

Jack writes from Talmage, Nebraska: "I have an old brick house with no frame or insulation inside. The wind practically blows through the brick. I am considering gluing 2 inch foam boards on the outside and stuccoing over it. Is that feasible?"

Answer: What you describe is called an EFIS system. In the world of construction, the abbreviation stands for Exterior Finish Insulation System, not to be confused with the aviation abbreviation having the same letters (Electronic Flight Instrument System). If you are considering EFIS for your home, I recommend researching that application.

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March 02, 2007

Question: Do radiator covers decrease efficiency?

Howard writes from Tuckahoe, New York: "Do radiator covers made of wood, which are only open on the side decrease the efficiency of a steam heating system? If so what do you recommend?"

Answer: Radiator covers that are only open on the sides are done so by design. The purpose is to have the heat be directed into the room instead of just letting it all rise to the ceiling level. This is not really my area of expertise, so if you want to know more about radiator covers I suggest calling or writing to a radiator cover manufacturer.

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March 01, 2007

Question: Should I remove an incorrectly installed vapor barrier?

Dave writes from Arlington, Massachusetts: "I have a 1/2 finished room in my old attic (house built in the 1890s) that has knee walls (lath plaster) on the 2 sides of the A frame sloping roof. The knee wall has had faced insulation (looks like R-13) added to it with the vapor barrier on the outside (probably done because it was easy to staple onto existing studs). Can I just punch a few holes in the facing materials as opposed to taking it down? Or should I leave it alone? I see no moisture damage, but I am concerned that it has not been installed correctly?"

Answer: The paper most likely was installed to the wrong side but is still performing as a vapor barrier. By cutting the paper you will be eliminating your vapor barrier. I suggest that you leave it as it is.

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