Answer: Unfortunately, I can't help you. This is a drop ceiling product and Owens Corning does not manufacture a product like this. Perhaps you can also Google your question and see what comes up. When I did that, the search engine came up with more than a million results.

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Nihar writes from Chelmsford, Massachusetts: "I would like to change siding of my circa 1967 house. There is approx. 2 inches of fiberglass insulation in the walls. I would like to remove the existing shingle siding, blow-in cellulose insulation into the walls, add a vapor barrier and add rigid foam before installing vinyl siding. What is the maximum thickness of the rigid foam insulation can I add without "building out" the existing windows? I do not mind removing the exterior molding but removing and reinstalling existing windows would be an issue."

Answer: To be sure in your situation, we recommend measuring on site. For more information on how to install vinyl siding, visit the Vinyl Siding Institute's Website at www.vinylsiding.org.

If you aren't aware of them, there are also siding products that can add insulating value. One such product is called the Polar Wall® Plus! Insulated Siding Panel. It is available to the trade through Norandex Distribution Centers.

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RG writes from East Haven, Connecticut: "I'm in the final phases of deciding on a type of sun room and interested in knowing about what others have done with flooring and heating in Sun Suites sunrooms that you've installed. What do you think is the best approach? I'm thinking to go w/ electric baseboard heat (hydronic) and wood floors."

Answer: There are several options when it comes to heating/cooling a SunSuites™ sunroom. We, however, don't recommend any particular option. A homeowner is free to choose any option including electric baseboard, under floor heat, heat pumps, heated ceiling fans, spatial heaters, etc. In order for any type of heat to be effective, you need to be very cautious about the materials you choose to contract a sunroom from. Fiberglass is a much stronger, more energy efficient material than any other option currently available. The type of glass that is chosen is also critical when constructing a sunroom. Our LoE cubed glass outperforms all others in the market and will assist in efficiently heating or cooling the room. As far as flooring goes, all options are available. Our SunSuites sunrooms come with a standard sub floor that is similar to that of the house structure. Carpet, tile, hardwood, etc., are all options.

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Bob writes from Selinsgrove, Pennsylvania: "What is the best way to install 2" 4'x8' FOAMULAR to exterior concrete block wall new construction?" Answer: When you refer to "exterior concrete block walls," I am going to assume you want to insulate the exterior of the foundation wall. In this case, adhere FOAMULAR® insulation to clean surfaces with long edges horizontal, edges tightly butted and vertical joints staggered. Secure the FOAMULAR insulation with small spots (appx 2" diameter) of petroleum-free adhesive applied 24 inches on center to backs of panels. Apply insulation to the wall within 15 minutes after applying the adhesive. Back-fill carefully to avoid damaging the insulation.

If my assumption is wrong and this is an interior basement wall application, check the FOAMULAR Rigid Foam Insulation for Basement Walls page of the Owens Corning Web site.

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Mike writes from Pine Grove, Pennsylvania: "I have an older home. I am not going to use the attic. There is a floor up in the attic also. Can I just roll insulation right on the floor? Or do I have to put it between the joists? And will it benefit me to put it right on the attic floor. I don't really want to rip the floor up and put down insulation. I got an Idea of just rolling it on the floor. What are your thoughts?"

Answer: Insulating directly over the attic floor is not a problem if the existing floor joists are already insulated. You should also check to make sure the band joists are properly insulated. Band joists are where the floor joists meet the exterior wall. If the band joists are not properly insulated, cold air will enter between the attic and living space.

If there is no insulation in the existing floor joists between the attic and living space, I recommend that the plywood be removed. The insulating project can then be done properly.

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Ameena writes from somewhere in the world: "What is save energy?"

Answer: The Save Energy Blog is about saving energy, which means saving such natural resources as coal, natural gas and oil.

Those of us who want to preserve the world for future generations believe we must use energy wisely and conserve it as much as we can so there will be some for future generations to use.

On a more personal level, in the U.S. where homeowners must pay for the energy used to heat and cool their homes, we like to save energy because it reduces our cost for that energy. That's what the blog is best at, helping people save energy.

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Daryl writes from Denton, Maryland: "I am adding an addition with cathedral ceilings. In hindsight I should have used 2 x 10 rafters, but I have 2 x 8. What is my best bet to achieve R-30?"

Answer: It is very common for builders use a 2 x 8 rafter instead of 2 x 10 when the less-expensive lumber can pass code structurally. The cost of increasing from 2 x 8 to 2 x 10 can be significant.

Once the 2 x 8 rafter is in place, builders will nail on a 2 x 2. This will then provide sufficient rafter cavity space to install R-30 insulation.

If you have 2 x 8 rafters there should be 7-1/4" of space. If the rafter is furred out 2" then the rafter cavity will be 9 1/4". An R-30C insulation batt measures 8-1/4". This will give you the full R-30 and maintain 1" ventilation space between the insulation and roof deck.

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Stefan writes from Orleans, Ontario: "I am studying energy in school (in Canada). I know many things have potential energy, but I am wondering: Is all matter made of energy, including rocks or a wooden table for example."

Answer: You stumped me. I must admit that don't know the answer to your question. I do know about some Web sites that may be helpful. I have attached a few links below - including one from Canada - about Energy, Matter, Dark Matter and the Universe.

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David writes from Rushville, Indiana: "Can I use a vapor barrier paint with Kraft face insulation? I am insulating the inside of my garage walls with R-13 Kraft faced insulation. I am going to cover the insulation with 5/8 drywall. Can I use a vapor barrier paint on the drywall or will this cause a problem since the insulation has Kraft paper?"

Answer: What you describe is not recommended by Owens Corning. We don't see a need for the extra vapor protection.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:18 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Frankie writes from Newtown Square, Pennsylvania: "Mine is more of a hobby question. I'm making a mountain for my G-sons train set. I'm using PINK insulation. In piecing the mountain together - 1. What type of sealant can I use to brush or spray on to fill the cracks? 2. What paint can I use?"

Answer: Sounds like a great project. I assume you mean PINK FOAMULAR™ insulation (not PINK FIBERGLAS insulation). Adhesives, paints and other materials used with all extruded polystyrene (XPS) insulation products such as FOAMULAR insulation MUST be petroleum free. Have fun!

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Jeff writes again from Syracuse, Indiana: "I'm insulating the floor between the basement and 1st floor. The floor joists are 2 X 12 and I plan on installing a suspended ceiling. Can you give me an idea of the STC difference between a suspended ceiling and a 1/2 drywall with resilient channel. The other question is what is the STC difference between going from 4" 6" 8" 10" of fiberglass in the floor joist."

Answer: STC (Sound Transmission Class) is an assembly rating. Insulation and other individual products do not carry STC ratings alone. In order to calculate the approximate STC, we would need to know the entire assembly including:
- Finish of the floor above.
- Is there underlayment and how thick?
- What thickness is the insulation?
- What are the 2 x 12s spaced at?

Owens Corning does not have information comparing general assemblies of the type you describe.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:26 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Eric writes from Traverse City, Michigan: "I am finishing off my basement. I am insulating between the floor joists to try to reduce sound from upstairs. I purchased r-13 Kraft back with vapor barrier to do this job. Should I remove the vapor barrier, or which way should it face? In locations where there is ductwork for heating is it ok to have the fiberglass insulation resting against the duct work?"

Answer: In a nutshell, the vapor retarder should be toward the side that is warm in winter. Instructions for installing fiberglass insulation under floors are available on the Owens Corning Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:51 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

DeAnna writes from Kokomo, Indiana: "I am in the process of building a house. Our builder has given us the choice of upgrading the insulation from R13 to R19. Our house is a one story house with a full walkout basement. The basement walls are 2X6 walls and the main level is 2X4 walls. I'm being told by a relative that you are not supposed to put R19 in 2X4 walls, because it gets too compressed for any R-value benefit. Please help clarify this for me. I don't want to pay for something I don't need or won't benefit me."

Answer:Fiber glass insulation works on the principle of trapped air pockets. By compressing fiber glass insulation, you decrease the amount of air trapped in the material. For example, compressing R-19 into a 2x4 wall will give you an R-13 value. It would be better to buy the product that best fits in the space. R-13 or R-15 batts are the best products for a 2x4 wall.

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Akanetendo writes from: "I'm searching for pink panther doll (12 feet or more). Can you tell me where to find it?"

Answer: Wow! That's like movie-screen size! I have never seen one that big. Unfortunately, I can't give you a list of store selling Pink Panther merchandise because MGM licenses my image to manufacturers who don't sell products directly to consumers. You no doubt already checked with your local retailers and came up empty so that suggestion won't help. Another idea is using a search engine like www.google.com to look for merchandise online. When I have done that in the past I saw lots of cool things. Finally, check out the MGM online store at www.MGMstore.com. If you don't see anything there, maybe send them an inquiry.

Thanks for your interest in me and good luck in your search.

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Ken writes from Ticonderoga, New York: “I'm looking at converting a portion of my basement to a 'summer' business office (cooler and has French door access to the back yard for my dogs). Does the Basement Finishing System 'panels' track have channels/conduit to run Cable, CAT 5, and/or electric? The foundation walls are not currently NOT 'wired or cabled'."

Answer: Yes, you can run wires through the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System™. The back of the panel can also be grooved if necessary to handle larger wires and conduit. You can learn more about the Basement Finishing System on the Owens Corning Web site.

To assure optimum results, the Basement Finishing System is offered directly from Owens Corning and is installed by certified professionals. Call 1-800-BASEMENT™ or click here to find the Certified Installer nearest you.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:12 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Jack writes from Salem, Virginia: "In November 2006, I purchased a new roof. The type of shingles used was Owens Corning, Oakridge PRO 30® AR shingles. Do these shingles qualify for a tax credit?"

Answer: Wouldn't that be nice? Unfortunately, shingles are not included in the list of products that qualify for a credit under the Energy Policy Act of 2005. For a list of the products that do qualify for a tax credit, go to the How to Save on Your Taxes with Insulation page of the Owens Corning Web site. The products are listed on the back of the Owens Corning Manufacturer's Certification Statement.

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Matthew writes from Bernard, Maine: "I recently insulated my house walls with faced R21. There is an open kneewall behind one wall that is ventilated. I had to piece together a lot because of the variance in the walls. There is an area where I think there will be a draft. After reading the "can I add an extra vapor barrier question", I wondered if that would be a good solution to reducing this draft. Are there drawbacks to using a second barrier? I don't want to regret this in a couple of years."

Answer: Two vapor retarders can only be used when they are in direct contact with each other. Otherwise, you risk trapping vapor within the insulation pack at the second vapor retarder. Air infiltration can also be reduced using caulk at all construction seams and foam insulation in larger openings.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:54 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Bob writes from West Orange, New Jersey: "My friend compressed R19 fiberglass batts intended for a 2x6 wall cavity into a smaller 2x4 wall cavity. The wall is now covered with wall board. What is the effective R value of this improper installation? What problems will this cause? What do you recommend?"

Answer: Stuffing a 2x4 wall with R-19 will decrease the R-Value to about R-13, so your friend will not receive the full benefit of the insulating value he or she purchased. High Density R-15 insulation would have been a better choice. The insulation shouldn’t cause any problems and replacing it will be a hassle since the cavity is already covered. With walls, we typically have only one opportunity to insulate them for maximum energy efficiency.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:39 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)