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September 28, 2007

Question: Should the insulation be turned around?

Mary writes from Summersville, West Virginia: "I just purchased a home that the current owner has put new insulation in R13. They installed the insulation with the paper side to the exterior of the home and the insulation to the interior. Isn't that backwards? I thought the paper barrier should face the interior of the room? The walls have not been put up yet and the insulation is still exposed. Should it all be turned around? Also the ceiling was done the same way....should it be changed?"

Answer: Yes, the facing should face the interior or warm side of the room. The only exception is in high humidity areas such as Florida.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:29 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 27, 2007

Question: What kind of vapor retarder should I use?

Craig writes from Collegeville: "We are in Pennsylvania, Philadelphia area. I am finishing the walk-up attic space in an old house built in 1872. The Gable end walls in this space are 12 inches of brick, the ceiling rafters are 5 1/2 x 5 1/2 beams. To hold insulation, I am adding a stud wall to the gable end, and I am furring out the ceiling beams. We are also adding air conditioning to entire house (the first and second floor were remodeled previously and have stud walls with insulation)

What kind of a vapor barrier should I put on the gable end? Since it is brick, do I put it against the brick before putting up the studs, or after the studs and insulation?

For the ceiling, what kind of vapor barrier do I put on?"

Answer: Use a Kraft-faced insulation facing the warm air. The Kraft facing will be in direct contact with your drywall.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:35 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 26, 2007

Question: What is the best option for my ceiling project?

Luke writes from Portland, Oregon: "I have 2x8 rafters in my ceiling (16" centers) and I'm wondering what the best insulation would be. I'm considering 2 layers of r-15 fiberglass insulation. Would that give me r-30?

Would a layer of 2x6 insulation and a layer of 2x4 insulation give me more r value? I know that I could attach a 2x4 furring strip and put the R-30 2x10 insulation in, but I don't want to do that if possible."

Answer: Yes. Two layers of R-15 uncompressed will give you R-30. Adding R-19 and R-13 insulation without furring out the rafters would compress to approximately R-25.

Furring out with 2x4's would be the proper way to do this. This would allow the proper space for sufficient R-Value.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:55 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 25, 2007

Question: Do we need to cover foam insulation?

Dusty writes from Lewistown, Pennsylvania: "If we use polyisocyanurate insulation in our attic do we have to cover it? We were hoping to be able to just paint over it. Because of the area that is why we wanted to use some type of foam board insulation."

Answer: Owens Corning no longer manufactures a polyisocyanurate insulation so I can't help with that question. You could use FOAMULAR® insulation but you will have to get an OK from your local building inspector to leave it exposed.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:59 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 24, 2007

Question: Should I use a vapor retarder?

Rob writes from Whitby, Ontario: "I am building a sleeping cabin in Northern Ontario and want to know how to insulate the floor. The floor will be 2 x 8's and 3/4" plywood and sit about 10" inches off the rock foundation. Should I also use a vapour barrier? This would be accessible to small animals."

Answer: Use the same method as a crawl space under floor application. For extra protection against critters, I suggest insulation netting.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:14 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 21, 2007

Question: Is my vapor retarder installed correctly?

Erica writes from Forest City, Pennsylvania: "The floors are insulated in my house. The facing is directed towards the basement floor. Is this installed correctly and if not should I re-install the insulation?"

Answer: The facing should face the warm air. This is very simple to fix; just flip the insulation so the facing is up towards the upstairs.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:36 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 20, 2007

Question: How much space between insulation and soffit vents?

Eric writes from Forest City, Pennsylvania: "My attic is insulated and I can't see the soffit vents. How much space should there be from the insulation to the soffit vents?"

Answer: I don't think I understand the problem. If the attic is insulated properly with the raft-R-mate® atticrafter vents installed and blocked correctly, you should not be able to see the soffit from the inside of the attic.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:22 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 19, 2007

Question: Is housewrap needed with foam insulation?

Marty writes from Loves Park, Illinois: "My builder is claiming B.I.B. is good enough for the exterior walls (r15 total he claims). It’s a 2x4 stud wall with 7/16 osb and housewrap. I'm thinking 1/2" foam over the osb will definitely be worth the expense. Will standard window jambs work over this wall (with 1/2" foam) and would the housewrap still be needed and would it go over the foam or between the foam and osb and do you still tape the seams of the foam? The osb is used for strength in this windy area."

Answer: If you use foam and tape the seams, it qualifies as a weather resistant barrier. Therefore, you will not need housewrap. You will have to go to the manufacturer of your windows to find out about the jamb size availability.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 18, 2007

Question: How should I insulation my garage?

Lisa writes from Duncanville, Texas: "I want to insulate my garage from within. Can I use InsulPINK® Foam Insulation Board? And will I need a 15-minute thermal barrier? Or can I cover the foam insulation board with decorative paneling?"

Answer: All extruded polystyrene foam insulation products must be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier. You will need to check with manufacturer of the paneling to see if that product qualifies.

You may find it to be less labor intensive if you use fiberglass batt insulation for your project. The InsulPINK insulation was not designed for the application which you are doing. InsulPINK insulation is designed to be used on masonry surfaces. It has channels that allow for furring strips to be used as nailers.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:15 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 17, 2007

Question: How can I install more R-value?

Brandon writes from West Des Moines, Iowa: "I am refinishing a finished attic in a house that was built in the early 1940s. The insulation I removed was "KIM SUL". Evidently, this was a product manufactured by Kimberly-Clark in the 1930s & 1940s. The ceiling rafters are 3 3/4" in depth. I have been to several home improvement stores and have deduced that the highest R-value I can achieve with rolled insulation is R-13. Living in central Iowa, this doesn't provide for an optimal thermal barrier. I can place thicker insulation behind the knee walls and along the upper, flat portion of the ceiling. However the area between the top of the knee wall and the flat part of the ceiling (the angled portion) provides only a 3 3/4" depth. Are any alternative types of insulation available? Any ideas on how to insulate the angled portion of the ceiling?"

Answer: The only thing I can think of to suggest is building out the current construction to provide more space for insulation. For example, if you build out the current framing with 2x6's you would have enough space to accommodate an R-30 insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:09 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 14, 2007

Question: What is the compressive strength of Owens Corning Codebord® add generic?

Tim writes from Kitchener, Ontario, Canada: "I am putting a metal siding on to the following wall assembly:
 1/2 gwb
 6" steel stud
 3" sprayed poly-U
 1" codeboard

In order to get the metal siding to stand proud of the masonry veneer wall below we need to install 3" 'Z' girts over the Codebord® add generic. My question is: Is there enough compressive strength in the Codebord® add generic to allow for sufficient resistance against wind loading when the girt is fastened to the steel stud through the Codebord® add generic?"

Answer: I can't evaluate the overall strength of the system you are proposing but I can tell you the compressive strength of Owens Corning Codebord® add generic available in Canada is 20.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:08 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 13, 2007

Question: What tape do you recommend for repairing torn vapor retarder?

John writes from Buffalo, New York: "When installing faced insulation I made a few holes/rips in the vapor barrier. What kind of tape do you recommend to fix the holes?"

Answer: You can use Owens Corning Bild-R-Tape® construction tape or any other good construction tape. Do not use duct tape because it will not retard vapor movement.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:18 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 12, 2007

Question: Which comes first, foam board or housewrap?

Sandy writes from Norwalk, Ohio: "Does it matter when siding a house which product you put on first, ridged foam board or housewrap and why? I've been told both ways are the best way."

Answer: We have not tested both products together so I cannot offer accurate data. If FOAMULAR® Insulation is applied and the seams are taped, this would act as a weather resistant barrier and there would be no need for housewrap.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:21 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 11, 2007

Question: How should I insulate between a garage ceiling and bedroom floor?

Dan writes from Rochester, New York: "My spare bedroom is over my 1 car garage. The ceiling of the garage is drywall and there is no insulation between the ceiling and floor. What are the directions for blowing in the insulation > What type of insulation should I buy, and will the insulation fibers get into the bedroom through the floor boards?"

Answer: Blowing insulation into the enclosed cavities of walls and ceilings is generally not a good do-it-yourself project because the walls or ceiling could be damaged by an inexperienced operator. We recommend hiring a contractor for this project.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:42 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 10, 2007

Question: How should I insulate an attic being converted to living space?

Mike writes from Punxsutawney, Pennsylvania: "I am renovating an attic to make more living space. The newly created room will share an area where the existing roof and new ceiling connect. I put high density foam (cut to fit between the rafters) then supplemented the rest of the rafter space with rolled insulation to increase the total r value. A rafter vent was also installed on the roof sheathing between the rafters to insure air flow.

My question is - Is a plastic vapor barrier still needed prior to the drywall? Or does the high density insulation act as a barrier? I am concerned about making a moisture trap."

Answer: High density fiberglass insulation is not a vapor retarder. I am not sure what type of "high density foam" you have installed? Is it an Owens Corning product such as FOAMULAR® Extruded Polystyrene Insulation? If not, you may want to check with the manufacturer of that product.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:53 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 07, 2007

Question: Can I install FOAMULAR® insulation?

Will writes from Norwalk, Ohio: "I have 3.5 foil back insulation inside and brown board nailed to studs (1978) outside. Can I put three quarter inch foamular propink insulation board and sagebrush siding over this and not have a moisture problem or dry rot in the walls?"

Answer: Yes, you can use FOAMULAR® Insulation in this application. Make sure to penetrate to the wood studs when attaching the FOAMULAR Insulation. Also, make sure to penetrate the wood studs when attaching the siding.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:11 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 06, 2007

Question: How should I insulate an add-on room?

Francina writes from Oxon Hill, Maryland: "We just moved into a house which had two add-on rooms. These rooms are very cold in the winter. The house has insulation under the floor, which is lifted from the ground so you can see under this part of the house. The insulation was hanging down and the baseboard was torn up in spots. The owner took the baseboard down. What can be done to keep the house warm?"

Answer: It sounds like the add-on rooms were never insulated. I would have an insulation professional come inspect and make recommendations. You can find an Owens Corning Certified Energy Professional® contractor by checking the Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:31 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 05, 2007

Question: Can I use fiberglass batts for subfloor insulation?

Brian writes from Dover, Pennsylvania: "I am making my attached garage into an extra living area. I am laying a sub-floor down with 2 x 4 sleepers on top on a moisture barrier. My question is: Can I use fiberglass batts for my subfloor insulation on top of the cement floor with the moisture barrier?"

Answer: If you are going to lay down 2x4's, I suggest Kraft-faced insulation with the vapor retarder up towards the living area stapled to the face. I would not use a moisture barrier on the concrete floor. This could cause trapped moisture between the Kraft paper and concrete.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:44 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 04, 2007

Question: How much will the R-value be reduced if the insulation is compressed?

Steve writes from Kitchener, Ontario, Canada: "I'm renovating my 115 year old, double wythe brick house. Construction of the exterior walls is 2 wythes of brick with embedded 2x4's and 1"x2" strapping. We added additional 2x2's to the strapping to create approximately a 2.5" to 3" stud space for insulating. If I use the R-13, 3.5" batt insulation, how much will the R-value be reduced if it's compressed to the minimum 2.5" thick?"

Answer: There is a Compression Chart on the Owens Corning Web site that indicates the R-values that result when insulation is compressed in a cavity. In your case, the R-13 insulation you plan to install will be reduced to R-10.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:16 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 03, 2007

Question: How should I install rafter vents?

Brian writes from Jacksonville, Florida: "I have a 1960 gable roof and I want to insulate the attic (blown-in). I have soffit vents (unable to install rafter vents, too tight to reach from inside attic). I plan on adding Ridge Vents. Could there be an issue with rafter vents not being installed? Can they be installed from outside the house at the eaves? Can they be glued?"

Answer: If you are able to install the soffit vents from the outside I see no problem in doing so. You should be able to staple half of the vent from the outside and maybe half from the inside. Glue is not a recommendation.

Installing the soffit vent is important because that is where air will enter the attic. The ridge vents act as the attic's exhaust.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:35 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

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