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October 31, 2007

Scary thoughts on Halloween

This is the day for children of all ages to dress up and go trick or treating. Many will don costumes that are intended to be scary. They will look like a skeleton, Count Dracula or a zombie, for example. But what really scares me is the thought of how much energy our homes are wasting every day. As I reported in an earlier post, an estimated 60 million existing homes today are under insulated. Of that total, about 40 million are single-family homes. Millions of their owners' hard-earned dollars are going right through the roof each winter.

Another scary thought is the amount of carbon being emitted by energy inefficient homes and commercial buildings. Buildings today consume 40 percent of the total energy use. That's more than both transportation and industrial activity. If every one of those under-insulated homes mentioned above would simply upgrade their attics from R-19 to the U.S. Department of Energy-recommended level of R-49 for many areas, we could reduce CO2 emissions by about 41 million tons, and reduce energy use equivalent to 51 fewer supertanker shipments of oil per year*.

A recent study published in The McKinsey Quarterly reached a significant conclusion - the single most cost-effective way to reduce greenhouse gases is building insulation. For information about how to save money and help the planet by upgrading the insulation in your home, go to the Owens Corning micro-site, www.insulateyouratticnow.com.

* With an estimated 60 million under-insulated homes in 2006 (based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The public health benefits of insulation retrofits in existing housing in the United States), 51 supertanker shipments saved annually is equal to a total of 103 million barrels; if all under-insulated U.S. homes were insulated to DOE standards, the U.S. would save the amount of energy equivalent to the energy in this amount of oil. The CO2 emissions reduction is an estimate based on the same data.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips at 04:01 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I cut slits in the paper facing?

Theresa writes from Sedalia, Missouri: "I have a deep space on my sunporch I have enclosed with wood siding on the outside. The space is deeper than my insulation. Does this cause a problem with the empty air space behind the insulation and between the new exterior siding? About 3.5 inches of air space left. Also should I cut slits in the paper face if I install plastic sheeting behind the sheetrock for a vapor barier to prevent trapped air and mold? What mil of plastic should I use for the vapor barier?"

Answer: Yes, when installing poly as a vapor barrier over Kraft faced insulation, we recommend the paper be freely slashed as not to trap moisture. The thickness recommendation on the poly is 4-6 mil. Having an air space on the back side of fiberglas insulation is not a concern.

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October 30, 2007

Question: What is the best R-value to use?

Kathy writes from Azusa, California: "I live in a uninsulated house with a metal roof. The attic area is also a non-vented space. What is the best R-value to use with fiberglass batts? I'm thinking R-38 - my dad is leaning toward R-30."

Answer: Are you putting me in the middle of a family disagreement? It seems as though I am sure to upset one of you and that makes me uneasy.

I could duck the question, of course, by sending you to your local building department. They should have data on the best R-values to use. And thermal insulation levels must meet or exceed local requirements, although your home doesn't seem to at the present time.

Another option for me without taking sides is to recommend that you fill the cavity of the attic joists. For example, if you have 2x10 joists install R-30; if you have 2x12 joists install R-38.

I can also avoid picking either R-value by telling you that the U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 for most areas of the United States.

If you expect to keep the home for a long time, the insulation with a higher R value should eventually pay for itself by saving energy, which will also reduce your carbon footprint.

It is really your call - but I'm on your side. (Don't tell Dad and get me in trouble.)

Finally, adding ventilation will also help your insulation work more effectively, especially in the summer when air movement will allow heat to escape. You will need to do some math to calculate your ventilation requirement. The minimum ratio is 1/300. That means you need one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space. We recommend a ratio of 1/150.

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October 29, 2007

Question: Should I insulate all the way to the peak?

James writes from Ansonia, Connecticut: "My home was built in 1925. An old Victorian Colonial. I have an attic that is very high, 13'6" from the floor to the peak. I have added a second story in the attic @ 89" using 2x6 collar ties attached to the roof rafters (also 2x6 full lumber for the existing roof rafters).I have put OSB as the flooring in the new storage area. I am getting ready to install R-19 faced PINK utilizing roofmate baffles. My question is should I run the insulation all the way to the peak or should I stop and do under the OSB on the new collar ties(New Storage Rafters)and leave the storage area unisulated above, to the peak."

Answer: The only reason for insulating the rafters to the peak is if you are going to finish that part of the attic space or need warm storage. If neither is the case, insulating the floor over the newly finished area should be sufficient.

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October 26, 2007

Question: Do fibers dissolve in the body?

Mike writes again from Tannersville, Pennsylvania: "Thanks for the good information. I have one final question. I don't mean to get too medical on you but when you say the fibers don't stay in the body that long - does the fiber dissolve into the body or how would it be removed from the body?"

Answer: You got it, Mike; the fibers actually dissolve. Solubility, or the ability of the fibers to be removed from the lung once inhaled, is important to preventing harmful effects. In contrast to other fibers that may persist in the body for decades, ordinary insulation wool glasses are quite soluble in the body and are removed in a period of weeks or months. For more on solubility, check the New Research on Glass Fibers page on the Owens Corning Web site.

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October 25, 2007

Question: Will foam insulation act as a second vapor retarder?

Dennis writes from Bellingham, Massachusetts: "I have 3.5" Owens Corning fiberglass w/Kraft vapor barrier between 2x4 studs in my home. I plan to strip the existing exterior siding down to the plywood sheathing, and install vinyl siding. I'd like to add 3/4" or 1" foam insul board to exterior before applying siding. Will this cause problems with moisture being trapped within walls and cause more trouble than the R-increase is worth?"

Answer: Extruded foam insulation will not act a vapor retarder but will definitely add R-value. I don't see any problem with what you plan to do. If you tape the seams, the foam insulation will qualify as a weather resistant barrier and you will not need housewrap. Be aware of the fact that adding thickness will change the appearance and fit of the walls around windows and doors.

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October 24, 2007

Question: Should I add a second vapor retarder?

Jeffrey writes from Belmont, Massachusetts: "I am finishing a room in my basement. I have painted 2 coats of drylock on the externior wall, and have purchased PINK R-13 Kraft faced batts to put in between the studs, with the facing side on the inside of the room. I was concerned about moisture in the basement rotting the Kraft facing, and so was advised at the building store to put up a polyethylene vapor barrier on the exterior concrete wall. My question is, if I then have 2 vapor barrier, the poly on the exterior wall, and the Kraft facing on the other side of the insulation, will this trap any moisture that does get by in the insulation? Should I go with Kraft-facing and no poly barrier, or poly barrier and unfaced batts?"

Answer: If you have Kraft-faced insulation you do not want a second vapor retarder installed. Even if there was not a Kraft facing we would still not recommend a plastic vapor retarder in a basement application. The moisture content is generally high in basements and a plastic vapor retarder is too strong for those conditions.

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October 23, 2007

Question: Does compressing insulation reduce noise control?

Valerie writes from Boston, Massachusetts: "I understand that compressing insulation reduces the R value from the perspective of heat loss. But how about sound? If I use a thicker batting and squeeze it down will I get better sound reduction?

I will be using it in 2x4 wall studs that separate my condo from the neighbors. Should I therefore get 3 1/2" or can I use thicker that is compressed. And does the R value matter for sound?

I would use the QuietZone® add generic but my local retail outlet doesn't have it and I don't have time to order it."

Answer: You are correct; compressing fiberglass insulation does reduce the R value. However, R-value is a measure of thermal performance, not noise control. The rating for sound is STC or Sound Transmission Class, a quantifier used to rate walls, doors and windows for their effectiveness in blocking sound. STC ratings are based on testing the whole wall and the higher the STC rating, the more acoustic value the wall has. Since the 2X4 wall you want to insulate is essentially an interior wall between two condos, we recommend using a 3-1/2" insulation product, either standard R-13 or higher density R-15.

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October 22, 2007

Question: Does fiberglass pose a health risk?

Mike writes a follow-up question from Tannersville, Pennsylvania: "Another question - What if the glass fibers are disturbed and then ingested through breathing. Do the fiberglass particles pose any health risk to the lungs that could be a concern?"

Answer: Thanks for your follow-up question. The few fibers that are small enough to remain airborne and breathed into the lungs will be removed as fast as the ordinary dust we breathe every day. They simply don't stay in the body long enough to cause disease.

Based on more than 60 years of research, we believe our glass fibers are safe to manufacture and use. When working with the material we recommend following industry safe work practices to avoid irritation.

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October 19, 2007

Look for me Sunday in USA Weekend

For those who read USA Weekend instead of Parade, you will see me in this Sunday's newspaper. It is the same advertisement with the same message - "It's easy to see why your energy bills are so high." The ad urges homeowners to look in their attics. If they see the wood beams or joists on the floor, they need more insulation. It is as simple as that.

The ad also says "it's easy to insulate" and urges homeowners to look for more information at the Owens Corning micro-site www.insulateyouratticnow.com. Those who visit the site learn that insulating is as easy as 1, 2, 3 - peek, prep and PINK. The first step is where you take a peek to see if your attic needs more insulation. Prep is where you find out what you need and where to start. PINK, my favorite color - surprise, surprise - is where you find products or contractors near you. There are also links at the left of the home page that take you to pages explaining why PINK Fiberglas™ insulation is really a "green" product. And perhaps best of all, my image is on the home page twice - upper left and lower right. I look forward to having you visit the micro-site and take a peek in your attic.

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Question: How should I insulate a knee wall?

Charles writes from Eliot, Maine: "I have a question about insulating a kneewall. I saw a web site that advocated putting batts between the studs, but then putting rigid foam panels on the back side of the wall (facing the cold air). The idea was to reduce drafts - wouldn't this create a double vapor barrier situation?

If this is a viable idea, would i use r13 or r15 since the studs are 2X4, and then put an inch of FOAMULAR® add generic on the back side?

On the slope section of the wall, could I just use FOAMULAR® insulation offset by furring strips instead of the standard vents? (so, from the inside, itd be sheetrock, vapor barrier, insulation, FOAMULAR® , 2 inches of air, roof sheathing?)"

Answer: When insulating your knee walls, Owens Corning recommends the use of Fiberglas® batts with Kraft facing. The Kraft facing should face the warm-in-winter side of the studs. The use of FOAMULAR® insulation on the cold side of the wall is not recommended. Any moisture that gets past the Kraft paper vapor retarder may condense of the surface on the FOAMULAR insulation.

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October 18, 2007

Question: What is the best way to insulate a flat roof?

Dennis writes from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: "We have a newer house with a flat roof. There is a space of about 8" between the ceiling and the roof deck that is not insulated. What is the best way to insulate this roof?"

Answer: The procedure for insulating under a flat roof is the same as a cathedral ceiling. Detailed installation instructions can be found at owenscorning.com on the project page for cathedral ceilings. You will need to maintain a 1" ventilation space between the insulation and roof deck.

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October 17, 2007

Millions of dollars going right through the roof

There are an estimated 60 million existing homes today that are under insulated. Of that total, about 40 million are single-family homes. With today's energy prices, literally millions of hard-earned dollars are going right through the roof each winter. If every one of those under-insulated attics were simply to go from R-19 to the U.S. Department of Energy-recommended level of R-49 for many areas, we could reduce CO2 emissions by about 41 million tons, and use 51 fewer supertanker shipments of oil per year*.

Some people are surprised to learn that buildings today consume 40 percent of the total energy use. That's more than both transportation and industrial activity. And just as significant are the findings in a recent study published in The McKinsey Quarterly that reached an unequivocal conclusion – the single most cost-effective way to reduce greenhouse gases is building insulation. Period. For information about how to save money and help the planet by upgrading the insulation in your home, go to the Owens Corning micro-site, www.insulateyouratticnow.com.

* With an estimated 60 million under-insulated homes in 2006 (based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The public health benefits of insulation retrofits in existing housing in the United States), 51 represents the number of supertanker shipments saved annually, holding a total of 103 million barrels, if all under-insulated U.S. homes were insulated to DOE standards. The CO2 emissions reduction is an estimate based on the same data.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips at 11:02 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I insulate a small crawlspace?

Carol writes from Carlsbad, New Mexico: "I have an old wood frame house that has a crawl with about 24 inches of space I would like to pull up the carpet and redo the wood floors. If I wanted to insulate the crawlspace how would I do this with it being such a tight space to work? The ground under the house is dirt with several vented areas around the block foundation."

Answer: By clicking on the highlighted words in this sentence you can find information about insulating crawl spaces that are under a floor or heated.

If the space is too tight for you, consider hiring a contractor to do the job.

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October 16, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a room above a garage?

Trevor writes from Pflugerville, Texas: "I live in a house that has an unconditioned (not heated or cooled) attached garage with living space above. The garage has been taped and drywalled, but I don't believe that the space between the living areas and the garage (floor/ceiling and walls) were ever insulated, and as such, the room above the garage gets very hot in the summer and is cold in the winter. What is my best option for insulating the space above and beside the garage? I don't want to take all of the drywall down, but I don't have a problem cutting holes for access. Also, if I were to say blow insulation in, do I need a vapor barrier or an air space? Or, can I just fill the whole cavity?"

Answer: If you do not want to remove the drywall, your best option is to blow in PINK FIBERGLAS® insulation. Retail stores typically do not stock loosefill insulation because it must be installed with special equipment that fluffs it up to achieve the proper R-value. Blowing insulation into walls and ceilings is generally not a good do-it-yourself project because the walls or ceiling could be damaged by an inexperienced operator. We recommend hiring a contractor for this project.

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October 15, 2007

Welcome micro-site readers!

If you are visiting my blog for the first time and you are coming from the Owens Corning micro-site , I want to extend a big PINK furry welcome. If we weren't communicating through cyberspace, I would give you a hug. As you will see if you spend some time exploring here, my blog has been online for the past 18 months. I don't speak but I can type! Until I started blogging, who knew?! The blog began with my ruminations on the world of energy efficiency and I invited questions. I soon received so many questions that I hardly had time to do any more than answer them. That continues today but I am squeezing in some other messages during the fall insulating season. If you have questions about your insulating project, try using the key word search capability to find the answer. For example, type "vapor retarder" in the "Search the blog" window at the top of this page and you will see a list of all of the questions and answers on that topic. If you can't find the answer to your question, drop me a line. And don't miss the section titled About Me. This blog isn't really all about me but we might as well have some fun while we cover the important topic of saving energy.

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Question: How should I insulate the walls and ceiling of my garage?

Scott writes from Howard, Ohio: "I have recently had an addition put on my garage. This addition will be a heated and air conditioned area. The contractor put on housewrap. When I insulate the exterior walls do I need a faced or unfaced insulation? Also the attic area is used for storage. Should I insulate the roof area to help with heating? I am going to insulate the ceiling under the attic area."

Answer: We recommend using a faced insulation with the paper on the side of the wall that will be warm in the winter.

The only reason for insulating the rafters is if you are going to finish the attic space or need warm storage. If neither is the case, insulating the ceiling joist (floor) should be sufficient.

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October 12, 2007

Back to work: Insulating promotion has me in the spotlight again

When you open Parade magazine this Sunday you will see evidence that I am still gainfully employed as the chief spokescat for Owens Corning. For a preview of the insulation ad, click here. That's me, of course, posing in the "pink is green" logo. I wanted to hold the ruler at the right as well but the company wants to show that anyone can measure their insulation, not just movie stars like me.

The ad in Parade is the official beginning of the company's fall insulation campaign for 2007 and it marks the start of my 28th year helping Owens Corning promote energy efficiency and their PINK insulating products.

My job this fall is to again encourage homeowners to look in their attics and see if they need more insulation. It is easy to tell if you need more insulation - if you can see the wood beams or joists on the floor of the attic, you need more insulation. Depending on where you live, you need at least 15-1/2 inches of insulation and the wood joists are typically no more than about 9-1/2 inches high. If the insulation in your attic comes up short, don't be surprised because an estimated 60 million homes in the U.S. are under insulated today.

This fall, do something for yourself and for the planet. Make sure your home has enough insulation to keep you cozy this winter and save up to 20 percent on your heating and cooling bills.*

* P.S. The company wants me to tell you that savings will vary depending on your location and weather conditions. Calculations of energy savings based on a 1,700-square-foot, single-story home, with base case insulation and air leakage levels equivalent to the average home built in 1965. Reference data sources include the U.S. Dept. of Commerce and the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (LBL) "Energy Savers Program." A summary of the calculation details is available upon request.

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Question: Should I be concerned about the insulation in my basement?

Mike writes from Tannersville, Pennsylvania: "I recently had a house built and the builder insulated the unfinished basement ceiling with batt insulation and the fiberglass is facing the basement. I am concerned with the health issues of exposed fiberglass since I will be working out in the basement and my kids might be playing down there. Is this type of installation a health risk? What would you recommend to cost effectively cover the insulation if I am not going to refinish the basement totally for quite some time?"

Answer: While fiber glass insulation is intended to be covered by drywall or other permanent wall covering, there is no long term health risk in the situation you describe. There is a possibility of irritation if the insulation is disturbed by, for example, hitting it with a broom handle. That irritation is a mechanical abrasion caused by the ends of the fibers scratching the skin. This is not an allergic reaction and the itching generally subsides when the source of the irritation is removed by washing it off. Covering the insulation in the ceiling with any type of temporary paper or poly film may create a fire hazard and is generally a violation of local building codes.

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October 11, 2007

Question: Should I install a vapor retarder over the Kraft facing?

David writes from Normalville, Pennsylvania: "Our cathedral ceilings rafters are constructed with 2X6's we have installed the rafter-mate ventilation product and insulated with Kraft faced insulation (R-19 Compressed) facing the living space. The ceilings will be covered with 3/4" Red Oak v-joint wood. Would it be better to install a vapor barrier over the Kraft facing or do you think the fan fold product would act an additional vapor barrier and add more R-value to the ceilings?"

Answer: Kraft paper is a vapor retarder and we do not recommend an additional vapor retarder in the application you describe. Fan Fold insulation will not act a vapor retarder but will help with air infiltration and add little additional R-value.

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October 10, 2007

Question: What is the best product for sound insulation and where can I get it?

Larry writes from Massapequa Park, New York: "I am soundproofing a ceiling in a basement where there's a drop ceiling under the living room. I was wondering if I can use regular 6 inch faced fiberglass ceiling/floor insulation between 6 inch floor beams (16 inches), or if there is another product with better sound absorption? What is the best product for sound insulating between the joists and where can I get it?"

Answer: Clicking on the highlighted words in this sentence will take you to the Owens Corning Web page presenting QuietZone® noise control solutions for the home. The products in this section are specifically designed for noise control. You will need to check with local building materials retailers for availability.

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October 09, 2007

Question: Should there be a vapor retarder in a sunroom?

Ron writes from St. Louis, Missouri: "Must there be a vapor barrier when insulating a new ceiling in a sunroom? If yes, how should it be done?"

Answer: First, make sure there will be adequate ventilation between the insulation and the roof deck. There should be a minimum 1" air space.

With regard to the vapor retarder, I recommend stapling Kraft-faced insulation into the rafter cavities.

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October 08, 2007

Question: Is there a benefit in insulating under a basement slab?

Chris writes from Spokane, Washington: "Is there any benefit in insulating under a basement slab and if so, how much?" Answer: Good question. I had to have my technical friends at Owens Corning help answer this one.

Yes, there is a benefit to insulating under a slab. The best way to illustrate the benefit is to do a comparison between a floor with insulation and one without. If you figure the ground temp at 50 degrees F and the inside temp at 70 degrees F and the R-value of four inches of concrete at R-1, you will have the following BTU loss for a 1000sf slab.

 SF x temp diff / R-value = BTU

1000sf x 20F / R-1 = 20,000 BTU loss. Add just two inches of R-10 PINK FOAMULAR® Insulation and the BTU loss goes to 2,000 BTUs.

Unless you are in the south where the cooling benefits outweigh the heat savings, then you should insulate the slab if you can.

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October 05, 2007

Question: What type of insulation should I use under the house?

Jennifer writes again from Shreveport, Louisiana: "We have an old house with hardwood floors with nasty carpet on top. The house is pretty cold in the wintertime and fairly comfortable in the summer. I live in a very humid region. The house is on pier and beam about 1' to 2' feet above the ground with lattice around the bottom for ventilation purposes. We have been hesitant in removing the old carpet because the carpet and carpet padding is supplying some insulating properties. My question is how and with what type of insulation should I insulate underneath the house? I would like something economical and effective. I have researched the sticky spray-on insulation and that is too expensive. I appreciate your expert advice. I have enjoyed reading your answers to some of the many questions on this site."

Answer: You could use unfaced insulation underneath the flooring. I recommend attaching plywood or netting to prevent critters from housing in the insulation.

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October 04, 2007

Question: Will OSB serve as a vapor retarder?

Ray writes from Thunder Bay, Ontario: "I am building a cottage on sono tubes. The area underneath the cottage will have plenty of ventilation as I plan on only using a lattice skirt. My question is whether or not I should be applying a vapor barrier over the insulation and under the 3/4 inch OSB flooring. Using a vapor barrier will not allow me to use construction adhesive when screwing down the OSB. I am also concerned about water seeping down through the OSB and laying on the vapor barrier prior to getting the roof on. If I silicone the OSB joints will the OSB serve as a vapor barrier. The cottage will only be used seasonally."

Answer: I do not recommend installing insulation unless the building is dried in. Three-quarter-inch floor decking will act as a vapor retarder with or without caulking the seams, meaning an unfaced insulation can be used. Only your local code can dictate what should be used. If you want to caulk the seams to minimize the amount of water getting in then you can do that. Even with the seams caulked we do not recommend installing the insulation until the building is dried in.

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October 03, 2007

Question: Will using drywall mud on the ceiling impact the vapor retarder?

Jennifer writes from Shreveport, Louisiana: "I have an old house with 12"x12" ceiling tiles in the living room and I hate them. The attic is insulated with blown in insulation and rolled fiberglass insulation on top of that. And I'm not familiar with the rules of moisture barriers at all. What I would like to do is apply drywall mud directly on to the existing ceiling tiles and then paint and glaze it and create a stucco look but in doing so I do not want to create an incorrect moisture barrier and cause the ceiling tile to mold underneath the drywall mud and I do not want to cause the room to become even less energy efficient."

Answer: Applying drywall mud to the existing ceiling will not affect the vapor retarder.

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October 02, 2007

Question: Should I insulate the ceiling or the walls?

Edward writes from Sun Prairie, Wisconsin: "I have a full uninsulated and unheated basement. Walls are poured concrete. Which would be better; insulate the ceiling or the walls?"

Answer: If you are planning to finish the basement you would want to insulate the walls. If you are NOT going to finish the basement, just insulate the floor joists.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:34 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 01, 2007

Question: Would my insulation value be the same with tape?

Susanne writes from somewhere in Canada: "I'm having a house built and paid CAN$4500 extra to have upgraded insulation, which is 1" PINK polystyrene. The builder put two holes, each measuring one foot in diameter in one of the panels. He is planning to repair it with tape. I would like to have it replaced because living in Canada, I would like to make sure that it has its maximum insulation value. My question to you: Would my insulation value be the same with tape?"

Answer: The proper fix would be to either plug or patch the hole with another piece of foam or completely replace it. Tape may resist weather but does not carry an R-Value like the foam.

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