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November 30, 2007

Question: Can I add heat with the Basement Finishing System™?

Mark writes from Minneapolis, Minnesota: "I was interested in re-doing my basement with the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System™, but I also wanted to add electric baseboard heat to the basement. Can electric baseboards be used with the Owens Corning basement finishing system? What other heating options would be available with the basement finishing system? I'd like to avoid radiant floor heating in the basement (to keep installation costs down)."

Answer: All types of heating systems can be used with the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System™ including the electric baseboard heating you are asking about. The only limitation is that the Basement Finishing System™ must not be exposed to temperatures over 160°F.

For additional information or technical assistance with the Basement Finishing System™, contact your local franchise. The franchise for your Zip Code (55408) is at 14650 Glenda Drive, Apple Valley, Minnesota 55124. The phone number is 952-891-3400. For franchises in other Zip Codes, call Owens Corning Customer Service at 1-800-Get PINK™ (438-7465).

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November 29, 2007

Question: Do I need to install a vapor retarder?

Dwayne writes from Raleigh, North Carolina: "My c. 1925 house has a normal-looking roof that is actually set low so that the roof line cuts into the top floor. This results in some interesting angled wall sections between the vertical walls and horizontal ceiling. These sections are about 9 feet long and the attic spaces above them are much like you would find in a newer home's cathedral ceiling. I would like insulate these sections. My plan is to put 3" round soffit vents at the exterior end of each rafter cavity, somehow put rafter vents down the cavities and then blow in insulation under the rafter vents. I will preform the rafter vents with a lip on the soffit end so the soffit vents vent up into the rafter vent. All this, of course, will be a big pain (no contractor in my area wants to touch the job) and none of it will be able to be very tight. My questions are: do I need to lay down a 4-mil poly vapor barrier, and can you think of a better way of insulating these spaces?"

Answer: I do not have a clear-cut answer because there are a lot of variables involved in your questions. Taking the easy one first, we recommend using Kraft-faced insulation where a vapor retarder is needed. You use the term "rafter vent" and I am unclear whether you mean Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents, VentSure® ridge vents or VentSure® roof vents. There is information on the Owens Corning Web site about rafter vents, ridge vents and roof vents. If these pages don’t answer your questions I suggest you call Owens Corning Customer Service at 1-800-Get Pink to discuss your questions with a representative.

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November 28, 2007

Question: Where can I find your MSDS documents?

Brock writes from Kola, Manitoba: "I need to obtain MSDS sheets for your R-20 insulation. Where do I find it?"

Answer: Owens Corning MSDS documents can be found online in the Document Library at http://www.owenscorning.net. For your convenience, I have attached the one you need.

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November 27, 2007

Question: What insulation do you recommend and how much?

Kevin writes from Great Bend, Kansas: "We just purchased a house and I have a couple insulation questions. 1) The housing inspector indicated I should add more insulation to my attic (crawlspace), he said at least another 9 inches minimum. What type should I use, batts or blown? Batts I should be able to do myself, right, just roll it out over the existing insulation? What R-Value and how much would you recommend? 2) There is a Sunroom that still has exposed beams that I plan on installing insulation and then drywall and paint. I am going to have a Hot Tub in the Sunroom as well. What type or insulation would you recommend and how much? Would I need anything extra (vapor barrier) since I will have a hot tub in there?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures 9-1/2" FIBERGLAS® insulation rated at R-30. If you are planning to add to the existing insulation, we recommend unfaced insulation. The company also manufactures loosefill FIBERGLAS insulation. Use of this product requires a special machine and may call for professional installer.

If you are planning to condition your sunroom we recommend insulating all exterior walls and the ceiling with FIBERGLAS batts. In your climate we recommend the use of a vapor retarder facing down toward the sunroom.

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November 26, 2007

Question: Can I apply rigid foam over wood siding?

Steve writes from Shrewsbury, Massachusetts: 'Can I apply rigid closed-cell foam board over existing wood clapboard siding? The exterior 2x4 wall is fiberglass insulated, sheathed with plywood (not OSB), wrapped with a vapor barrier, and finished with cedar clapboard. Rather than repair & paint, I was looking at vinyl and figured I'd add as much insulation beneath the vinyl as possible. I don't mind building out the exterior finish of windows/doors, so adding more than one rigid layer is what I had in mind - think 'super insulation'. (I am familiar with homes having double windows - that is, two windows between the interior and exterior space - so building-out to that extent wouldn't be new to me, but not my first choice.) So, if I can just apply the board over the siding, additional questions include: how may layers, fasteners, and other envelope information like insect issues, etc.?'

Answer: Yes. This is an expected and acceptable application for PINK FOAMULAR® 150 or 250 insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:24 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

November 23, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a walk-out basement?

Donna writes from Corbin, Kentucky: "Residence with walk out basement was built without completing the insulation "envelope." There is approx. three feet of space between the basement's dropped ceiling tiles and the floor joist of the 1st floor. The HVAC unit is installed in this space. The poured concrete exterior perimeter walls are not insulated at all in this space. The basement interior perimeter walls were stripped with 1x and appear to only have foam insulation behind the drywall. What would the most efficient insulation method be? Frame with short 2 x 4's so standard batts with vapor barrier can be installed? Or a foam board with at least R13 rating that doesn't need a fire retardant over it? Or have foam insulation applied to the walls? Won't some framing be necessary to help hold it in place until it sets?"

Answer: For detailed explanations with pictures of two options, click on the words Basement Walls and Foamular® Rigid Foam Insulation for Basement Walls. One page describes the process for using PINK fiberglass insulation and the other one covers PINK foam insulation.

Because this is a unique application and your questions are many, it will be best to call Owens Corning Customer Service and discuss the project with a technical representative. The number is 1-800-Get PINK (438-7465).

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November 22, 2007

Question: Is R-value significant for noise reduction?

Doug writes from Dublin, Ohio: "I want to reduce the amount of noise between my office and family room. I am working with an existing interior wall that is open. The wall is constructed using 2 x 4's with 5/8 sheetrock. Does R-13 or R-15 have an advantage over R-11 in reducing noise? If yes, how much?"

Answer: R-value is a measure of thermal performance, not noise control. The rating for sound is STC or Sound Transmission Class, a quantifier used to rate walls, doors and windows for their effectiveness in blocking sound. STC ratings are based on testing the whole wall and the higher the STC rating, the more acoustic value the wall has. Interior wall assemblies are generally tested with 3-1/2" insulation. Since the 2X4 wall you want to insulate is an interior wall between two rooms, we recommend using a 3-1/2" insulation product, either standard R-13 or higher density R-15, although I don't have any data that says increasing insulation density improves STC rating.

Clicking on the highlighted words in this sentence will take you to the Owens Corning Web page presenting QuietZone® noise control solutions for the home. The products in this section are specifically designed for noise control. You will need to check with local building materials retailers for availability.

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November 21, 2007

Question: How should I attach the furring strips?

Mike writes from Saint Paul, Minnesota: "In an earlier post you said 'When attaching the wallboard I suggest first fastening wood furring to the wall. The gypsum board can then be fastened to the wood furring.' Exactly how do you recommend that the furring be attached to the wall. Do you place the furring on top of the Foamular and nail or screw through it into the wall? Or do you leave spaces between the sheets of Foamular for the furring?"

Answer: Owens Corning makes a specific FOAMULAR® Insulation product for this application. It is called InsulPink® Basement Wall Insulation. When these panels are butted together the edges form a channel to receive the furring strip. The furring strip goes over the FOAMULAR Insulation and the fasteners go through it and into the wall.

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November 20, 2007

Question: Does the backing itself form a moisture retarder?

Dwayne writes from Dwight, Kansas: "I own a 16 X 80 mobile home. Field rats got under the trailer and tore out the insulation including the moisture barrier. I want to replace it with R-19 rolled insulation with a backing on it. Does the backing itself form a moisture barrier? If not, what would one run to cover the 16 X 80 area?"

Answer: If the backing you are writing about is a Kraft-paper facing, then yes, that is a vapor retarder. Install the insulation so the Kraft vapor retarder is up toward the warm-in-winter side of the home's underside.

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November 19, 2007

Question: Should I also add insulation between the studs?

George writes from Strongsville, Ohio: "I am planning on finishing my basement. I have never had any water problems, but I painted the walls with 3 coats of Behr concrete paint/sealer. My plan is to glue 1 inch 4x8 feet Foamular panels to the walls and caulk the seams, tops and sides. I want to create a thermal and moisture barrier between the room and the cold walls, so I don't have potential condensation problems. I will leave a 1/2 inch air space between the Foamular and steel studs. What do you think of my plan? I am not sure if I should also add insulation between the studs or if the Foamular will provide enough insulation for a basement in my area. I will be installing mold resistant drywall and am running a dehumidifier to manage moisture in the air"

Answer: Owens Corning markets a FOAMULAR® Insulation product specifically designed for basement walls. Known by the trademark InsulPink®, it has channels that allow it to be installed with furring strips. We don't recommend putting FIBERGLAS® Insulation directly over FOAMULAR products.

FOAMULAR products have an R value of 5 per inch. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) recommends R-11 for basement walls in your Zip Code area.

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November 18, 2007

Question: Any pointers for insulating a crawl space?

Amanda writes from Gimli, Manitoba: "We have a "crawl space" under our kitchen. That we use for storage for our bikes, canning, pop, etc. We prefer to keep it as a cold storage area, but in the winter the kitchen floor above is soo cold, we can't even sit at the kitchen table. How do we go about insulating it? There is our dryer pipe and heating ducts running in that area. Any pointers?"

Answer: That's an easy one because the answer can be found on the Owens Corning Web site. Click on the word Crawlspace and you will see complete instructions for the project you describe, including pictures.

There are often pipes, ducts and wires in crawlspaces that you need to work around. Water pipes should be insulated and you will need to insulate carefully around electrical wiring and boxes. Insulation should be placed around cross braces by cutting it and pushing it between the braces.

Three other points to keep in mind: (1) Always install the insulation with the vapor retarder toward the warm side of the structure in heating climates such as yours. In a vented crawlspace, the warm side is usually up, closest to the floor. (2) Once the insulation is in place between the floor joists, insulation hangers or nylon straps should be used to hold the product in place. (3) A 4- or 6-mil. polyethylene vapor retarder should be laid down to completely cover the ground.

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November 16, 2007

Question: How is an attic fan installed?

Diana writes from Shelton, Connecticut: "How is an attic fan installed?"

Answer: Unfortunately, I can't answer your question. Owens Corning does not manufacture or market attic fans so I have never done a commercial for the product. My recommendation is to write to the manufacturer (if you already bought an attic fan), or review the information on the packaging in a store (if you have not). The product will probably have instructions inside the package as well. You can also Google the question and see what comes up. When I did that, the search engine came up with 408,000 results.

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November 15, 2007

Question: How should I insulate the walls in the attic?

Fay writes from Danville, Indiana: "I'M GOING TO INSTALL INSULATION IN MY ATTICS SIDE WALLS (THE END GABELS). SHOULD I USE FACED OR UNFACED INSULATION?"

Answer: Is the attic you are planning to insulate finished and heated? If not, and it is simply unheated storage space, there is no value in adding insulation to the walls at the ends.

Instead, consider adding more insulation to the layer on the floor of the attic if it isn't already up to the recommended level for your area. Your local code officials can tell you what is recommended in your home. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 for most areas of the United States.

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November 14, 2007

Under-insulated homes emit a blimp-load of carbon1

Want to see what you can do to help save the planet? If so, head to the attic. If you can see the wood beams on the floor, chances are good that you need more insulation.

There are an estimated 60 million American homes that have under-insulated attics and not only face energy costs up to 47 percent higher this winter, they're also emitting a half ton more CO2 EVERY year than their properly-insulated neighbors. Released into the atmosphere, that's about an average blimp-full of CO2 emissions being released per block of homes each year.

That's why Owens Corning, the makers of PINK insulation and sponsors of my blog, are focused on getting the word out to homeowners on how they can save money and do their part to make the planet a little greener. To join the effort, check to see if you have enough attic insulation. With the U.S. Department of Energy recommending an average of R-value 49 for attics, Owens Corning advises that an attic have a minimum of 15.5 inches of fiberglass batt insulation or 18 inches of blown insulation.

For more information about blimps, CO2 and attic insulation visit the Owens Corning micro-site www.insulateyouratticnow.com.

The fine print:

1The US could save up to three million blimps full of CO2 emissions (the average blimp holds approximately 200,000 cubic feet of gas) if all under insulated attics in the US were insulated to the DOE standard. Estimated 60 million under-insulated homes in 2006 based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The Public Health Benefits of Insulation Retrofits in Existing Housing in the United States.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips at 04:42 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use both foam and fiberglass in the wall?

Greg writes from Minot, North Dakota: "I'm looking at building a new wall up against my concrete basement wall. I'm wondering if you think its a good idea to mix foam and fiberglass insulation together to achieve a higher r value?

My plan is to put foamular 150 1 inch thick foam on the concrete wall, then build my wood frame and fill it with Owens Corning R15 insulation fast batt. Would this work? Or should I not use the foamular 150 and just build my wall using the fiberglass insulation and poly moisture barrier?

I have no moisture problems that I can see in my basement. The basement walls are painted. We recently had 15 inches of rain in my neighborhood over a month's time, and never got any water leaks or moisture deposits on the walls. I have a sump pump in my basement because I live in a high water table area; it ran all the time but I never had any problems with water."

Answer: It is acceptable to use one inch thick FOAMULAR® 150 insulation in conjunction with FIBERGLAS® insulation. However, we recommend that the FOAMULAR be placed on the inside face of the framing members, not behind the FIBERGLAS insulation. We also recommend that the FIBERGLAS insulation used be unfaced. This system will increase the R-value of the wall by 5.

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November 13, 2007

Question: Is my reading of the compression chart correct?

Elizabeth writes from Sacramento, California: "I hired a contractor to insulate and sheetrock the garage in my 1960s home. The contract specified R-13 in the walls (2x4 stud) and R-19 in the ceiling (2x8 joists). He made a mistake and put R-19 in the walls. He completed the sheetrock before I discovered the mistake. I know that if you compress insulation, you lose R-value. From the compression chart on the Owens Corning website, it appears that R-19 compressed into a 2x4 cavity will achieve R-13. Is this correct? I noticed that the insulation seemed bumpy and not smooth and straight. By packing insulation so tightly, will the unevenness cause even further loss of R-value? Or, will the insulation even out over time? Do I need to worry about moisture problems, since there is little airflow? What about buckling or warping of the drywall or outside siding, due to too much pressure from the insulation?"

Answer: You are correct! The resulting R-value from compressing R-19 fiberglass insulation into a 2 x 4 stud wall will be R-13. Without seeing the installation it is hard to say whether the R 19 insulation will exert enough pressure on the sheetrock or siding to cause damage but I don't expect any and you should have no further loss of R-value. In addition, compression does not contribute to moisture problems. Generally, airflow is not necessary in walls. We do recommend the use of Kraft- faced insulation. You may need to confirm with the installer that material with a Kraft vapor retarder was installed with the Kraft facing installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the wall.

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November 08, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a bedroom in the attic?

Jim writes from West Bend, Wisconsin: "I have a walk up attic. I want to put in a bedroom that is 12x16 with a 9 foot ceiling and will have hydronic baseboard heat. The room will sit against one exterior wall that faces north. The remainder of the attic will be unfinished, unheated and used for storage. As this home used to be a barn, it has a mansard style roof with no roof vents or soffit vents. I know I will need to insulate the wall that is the exterior wall of the home and apply a plastic vapor barrier on it, but what about the rest of the walls of the bedroom, the ceiling and the rafters in the bedroom? Since the bedroom sits on the outside wall, part of the wall/ceiling is sloped due to the existing house rafters. Do I need to insulate these, and use a vapor barrier on them? Should I use the foil/bubble insulation to staple up instead? The original rafters are 24" on center, while all the rest of the framing for the new construction is 16" o.c."

Answer: Since you are creating a heated living space inside your attic, (and the rest of the space will be unheated) we recommend all of the areas around the living space be insulated. In other words, treat all walls of the bedroom as exterior walls. We recommend Kraft-faced insulation be installed with paper toward the warm-in-winter side. The ceiling or rafters of the heated living space should be insulated in this fashion as well. Finally, make sure there is ventilation between the insulation and roof deck at the slopes.

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November 07, 2007

Get the answer to your insulating questions at 1-800-GET-PINK™

We are happy to get your e-mail questions but there is another way to get help with your insulating project. Owens Corning has a team of people on hand at this very moment to answer your insulating questions by phone. And to tell you the truth, I get a lot of help from them.

After acting in Owens Corning commercials for more than 27 years, I thought I knew a lot about insulation and insulating projects. I do, but the team at Owens Corning really has a lot of knowledge about home energy efficiency. They can be very helpful. Give them a call with your questions at 1-800-GET-PINK™ (1 800-438-7465).

You can also find information about insulating project at the company's new micro-site www.insulateyouratticnow.com. The micro-site has the answers to common insulating questions, such as: How much insulation is enough? How much more do you need? What do I need to know? Where can I buy Insulation or find an insulation contractor near me?

Consider upgrading your insulation so you can save money, save energy and help save the planet.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips at 12:36 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I insulate a concrete basement floor?

Sammy writes from Edmonton, Alberta: "What you recommend to insulate a concrete basement floor? Do I need vapour barrier, 2x2's and a subfloor with foam insulation? What thickness of insulation should be used?"

Answer: We have no detail for foam insulation above a concrete floor. In most cases were we have seen this done the builder or contractor installed a floating floor where FOAMULAR® insulation sits on the concrete and a subfloor was placed directly over it. In Canada we have also seen successful applications where CodeBord™ insulation panels (available in Canada) were installed over the existing concrete slab, then 1" x 4" sleepers (furring strips in U.S.-speak) were installed 16" on center, then 3/4" plywood over the sleepers. Either way you get a nice PINK solution.

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November 06, 2007

Question: What can I do about odor?

Tina writes from Tupelo, Mississippi: "The insulation in my garage is emitting a very smelly dead odor!! What could this be? We live in MS where the humidity is very high, but should it smell like this?? The ceiling in the garage is open; unfinished. I can actually touch the insulation if I wanted to. My bedroom is above the garage, the flooring is wood. What can I do about this dead smell coming from the insulation?"

Answer: One question I have for you is how long ago was the insulation installed? If the insulation has been installed for years, the odor could be caused by many things that are not associated with the insulation or the manufacturing process, such as mold, rodents, etc.

There are basically two types of odors that can come from new fiberglass insulation. The first is associated only with Kraft-faced building products and is more of a petroleum odor produced by the asphalt that coats the back of the paper. It is more pronounced in products that are fresh off the production line. This particular odor will generally dissipate within a few days. It is not harmful and once gone it shouldn't return. Ventilating the area where the odor is will help to speed the dissipation process. The second odor is rare and typically referred to as a fishy or urine-like smell. Excess binder in the product that was not baked off or cured during the manufacturing process causes this odor. It will also dissipate over time. Depending on the amount of uncured binder, it may take some time to go away. Once again, ventilating the area where the odor is will help to speed the dissipation process.

Again, keep in mind that this answer is for new insulation only. If the insulation has been in place for a while and the odor is new, you need to consider and check for other sources.

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November 05, 2007

Question: Should I install a vapor retarder?

Jim writes from northern New Zealand: "I am building in a warm humid climate. I have a sarked roof with coated aluminum tile roof, 50mm air gap, building paper, 50 mm air gap 150mm thick pink bats, 50mm air gap then gyp board(drywall). Should I put a vapor barrier on before the gyp board and what product should I use if needed."

Answer: Owens Corning recommends the use of a vapor retarder any time you are separating heated or conditioned space from non-heated or non-conditioned space. The vapor retarder is generally installed so it is directly behind the finishing material (facing the warm-in-winter side).

I should also mention that some areas with high humidity do not use a vapor retarder or turn it to the outside. Always check with your local building department for the local code in reference to vapor retarder placement.

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November 02, 2007

Question: Should I use a vapor retarder if I frame out the walls and install more insulation?

Ise writes from London, Ontario: "We would like to re-insulate our house and the way we want to do is to leave the old drywall in place and set up a new frame out of 2*4 that we will then fill in with insulation and install a vapour barrier before we put new drywall on it. We realise it will make the rooms a bit smaller but I am more worried about if that is a proper way or if it could lead to moisture/mold problems."

Answer: To answer your question completely, I need to know what type of insulation is in the wall now. Does it have a vapor retarder on it? If so, installing additional insulation directly in front of it may lead to the condensation and moisture problems you are concerned about. You don't want a double vapor retarder in the wall system.

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November 01, 2007

Would you like to reduce your carbon footprint?

Yesterday's Halloween post was kind of depressing. Today I want to be more positive and show how a home's energy footprint can be reduced when a higher standard is used for insulation.

Click on this link and you will see a spider chart showing the reduced energy footprint that is possible with a well-insulated home. The smaller footprint (shown in yellow) represents a home built to the standards of the U.S. Energy Policy Act, compared to the same home built to code.

The EPAct home will generate 43 percent fewer CO2 emissions, using the equivalent of about nine barrels of oil less a year, and saving on average as much as $700 less in energy bills*. That's a difference in energy use that helps the environment and also helps save money.

Which footprint do you want for your new home? Tread lightly, friends, and leave a better world behind.

For information about how to save money and help the planet by upgrading the insulation in your home, go to the Owens Corning micro-site, www.insulateyouratticnow.com.

*Owens Corning engineering estimates based on average house and average climate

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips at 10:12 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is FOAMULAR® insulation a vapor barrier?

Charles writes again from Eliot, Maine: "Is foamular not considered to be a vapor barrier?"

Answer: In order to qualify as a residential vapor retarder a product must have a water vapor perm rating of 1.0 or lower (the lower the number the stronger the vapor retarder). Owens Corning FOAMULAR extruded polystyrene insulation is rated at 1.1 perm. (This is tested at one inch of thickness.)

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