Home

Ask The Pink Panther™ your energy questions Search the blog

December 31, 2007

Question: Thank you VERY much for this blog

Steve writes from Highwood, Illinois: "Not a question but a comment. Thank you VERY much for this blog, for making it google searchable (which is how I found it), and for making its archives freely accessible. If your bosses ever wonder if it's worth the cost for you to maintain the blog, you let them know that a happy, well-educated customer is GOLDEN, whereas a customer who, out of ignorance, has a bad experience with the product (through no fault of the product itself) is a customer no more. And that doesn't even count less-tangible value of good will. Keep up the good work! Steve - a new fan"

Answer: Thanks for the nice message and kind words. They are a very special gift that brightened my holiday season. You will probably not be surprised to know that I agree with you. Happy New Year!

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:18 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a benefit to insulating over an open porch?

Kathy writes from Canandaigua, New York: "I have an old house with a cedar shingle roof. All is well except the area over the open porch where the ceiling is leaking but the roof shingles don't seem to be wet. There is tons of insulation over the porch roof which seems to be purposeless. Is there any advantage to insulating a roof over an open porch and could this be condensation coming from the warmed up insulation in a cold roof?"

Answer: It is common to insulate under the roof if the porch is heated or air-conditioned. The Federal Housing Administration (FHA) calls for a minimum one inch of ventilation space under a roof deck (with soffit to ridge vents). The purpose of the venting is to draw out moisture like you have described.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:17 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will insulating warm my ceramic floor?

Karen writes from Marine City, Michigan: "Will it make my ceramic floor warm if I spray insulation on the floor boards under my house?"

Answer: Owens Corning does not manufacture spray insulation so I don't have any information on that product. The company does manufacture FIBERGLAS™ insulation that can be installed under the floor. Insulation works by slowing the transfer of heat, so while insulation will not "make the floor warm" it will help to maintain heat in the room and the tile should feel warmer in cold weather.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:12 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 28, 2007

Question: What standard should a homeowner use to determine if he has enough air movement in the attic?

Ben writes again from Great Falls, Virginia: "Refering to the Soffit/Ridge Vent FAQ: What commercial or manufacturer's standard(s) should a homeowner use in determining if he has enough air movement in his attic? Case in Point: If you are planning to install a new roof, does the roof manaufacturers, e.g., CertainTeed or GAF, have standards for air movement? Do you know what they are for CertainTeed or GAF? Does this override the Owens standard for air movement in the attic? - different flow rate or what? Why install the Owens Corning Pink Roof Vents, if the assumption is that you install wide enough soffits air will automatically enter and go to the top of the ridge vent - is this really true???? Please remember most folks allow the contractor to make those 2by2 holes in the wood soffits not realizing that may not even meet any std(s) at all to move enough air to meet Owens or CertainTeed or GAF std(s) – bye bye effectiveness and warranty!"

Answer: Owens Corning follows the HUD requirements pasted below. The companies you mentioned are competitors and I don't have information about the standards they use. We also have a calculator on line that may help you. http://www.owenscorning.com/around/ventilation/determining.asp

HUD Requirements for Proper Ventilation.
Ref: MPS 403-3

The following US Department of Housing and Urban Development Statutes covering the ventilation of structural space furnish a basic guide for determining proper ventilation styles and sizes for any home. These statutes appear in the latest edition of the "Minimum Property Standards."

The Correct Amount of Roof Ventilation:
As a general rule, one square foot of net free vent area per 300 square a feet of attic floor or area to be vented is recommended.

In the rare situation where no vapor retarder is used and proper distribution of undereave and ridge vents cannot be achieved, one square foot of net free vent area should be provided for each 150 square feet of attic floor or area to be vented.

For a balanced system, ventilation should be equal at the undereave and ridge. In cases where a balanced system cannot be achieved, always provide more than 50% of the total required ventilation at the undereave and the remainder at the upper portion of the roof.

Openings: All openings greater than 1/8 inch must be screened to prevent insect penetration and louvered to protect against the entrance of rain and snow.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I use foam insulation under siding?

Ben writes from Great Falls, Virginia: "I plan to remove old siding from my home. Approximately 20 squares of siding material are needed. I plan to use vinyl siding, however my challenge is the following: In a Hot Humid area as VA, I need your help in determine the best way to use the Formular 250 (?) under the vinyl siding. When I remove the old siding, I may see "Black Tar Board" sheathing not CDX. If that the case, install the Form 250 over all the existing Black Board and then wrap it with housewrap?? Is this vapor management or not? Or do I do it reverse order???? Remove the old siding, use the housewrap, then Form250 and finally the vinyl siding. Do you think I need to use 4by8 CDX in place of the Black Board, then proceed to use Form250 in front or behind the housewrap???? Is there any other product you could recommend to me, for increase the insulation and serving as a backing for the vinyl siding? Also, the vinyl companies are trying to sell me on the preform material attached to the vinyl siding together - any insight you can share with me."

Answer: Typically, we see FOAMULAR® insulation installed prior to a product like PinkWrap® housewrap by Owens Corning. However if the seams of the FOAMULAR insulation can be taped, the PinkWrap housewrap can be omitted. FOAMULAR insulation products are recommended as backing for vinyl siding. We do not have recommendations for other types of material. Since we have recently exited the siding business, I have limited information about insulated vinyl siding although we used to market one called Polar Wall® siding.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:28 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 27, 2007

Question: Is it okay to compress insulation?

Donna writes from Medicine Hat, Alberta: "Is it okay to compact the pink insulation? The insulation we have is 10" thick and we need it pressed down to fit into the 2x4 area. Can this be done without harming the R-value??"

Answer: Fiber glass insulation works on the principle of trapped air pockets. By compressing fiber glass insulation, you decrease the amount of air trapped in the material. For example, compressing R-20 batt insulation, which is 6" thick, into a 2x4 wall cavity, which is 3-1/2" thick, will give you an approximate R-14 value. It is better to buy the product that best fits in the space.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:29 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to insulate my basement walls?

Mike writes from Bowling Green, Kentucky: "Do I need to insulate my basement walls? There is no leakage or moisture problems and my wife would like to either plaster them or paint them, rather than drywall."

Answer: Insulating would help if you plan to use the space as a living area for any extended amount of time.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:26 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 26, 2007

Question: Is also having a vapor retarder above a good idea?

Chris writes from Chicago, Illinois: "We are replacing a flat roof/deck on the 3rd floor with EPDM. Below the roof is a 2nd floor bedroom with pink insulation fiberglass insulation with R-11 between the rafters. There is Kraft-paper vapor barrier to the inside of the room.

My question is that when we tore the old roof off, there was a layer of plastic sheeting between the roof/felts/plywood top layers above and the subfloor boards below. With the fiberglass insulation that is in the bedroom ceiling below, is having the moisture barrier above also a good idea? Seems like a double moisture/vapor barrier to me. What do you think?"

Answer: A vapor retarder on the top side is not recommended in your situation. The Kraft facing on the product acts as the vapor retarder and is facing the interior of the room. Two vapor retarders on both sides of the insulation could lead to moisture problems.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate masonry walls?

Rob writes from Ashland, Kentucky: "I have a house that has masonry walls. There is brick, a small airspace, and then block. Plaster is applied directly to the block. I am thinking about insulating these walls and was wondering if foam board alone would be enough? If so, what thickness? Or should I go ahead and build some new stud walls and use a combination of foam board and fiberglass? I don't mind doing the extra work if it will make a significant difference."

Answer: Owens Corning FOAMULAR® insulation is used alone in below-grade applications, in thicknesses of 1-1/2 to 2" (R-7.5 to R-10). For above-grade applications we recommend installing FIBERGLAS™ insulation in a stud wall. If additional R-value is needed, FOAMULAR (1" thick) can be applied over the face of the studs before the finishing material is applied.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:40 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 24, 2007

Question: Can I put new insulation over the top and not have the mess of ripping out the old insulation?

Tom writes from Cleveland, Ohio: "I have a 1960's ranch house and I'm looking at ripping out wood paneling and replacing it with drywall. I've taken a section of the wall off and there is faced insulation in the walls. (I can't tell what R level it is and I'm not sure those ratings existed in the 60's) I'd like to know if I should remove all the old insulation and replace it with new, or can I put new insulation over the top and not have the mess of ripping out the old insulation? I have 2x4 studs, with a brick exterior. If I do add new insulation should I get faced or get unfaced and add a plastic vapor barrier?"

Answer: The insulation that we manufacture for 2 x 4 studs is at least an R-11. However, I can't be sure what R-value you have exactly because there are also R-13 and R-15 products for walls in some areas. We do not recommend putting additional insulation on the facing. If you choose to replace the insulation, we recommend Kraft-faced insulation 3-1/2" thick. As mentioned above, Owens Corning manufactures R-11, R-13 and R-15 for 2 x 4 stud cavities. Install the Kraft facing toward the warm-in-winter side of the wall.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:48 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is it OK for insulation to touch IC-rated lights?

Mike writes from Chicago, Illinois: "In my new construction home, the electrician installed 6" IC-rated can lights in the ceilings. The attic has R-30 blown-in insulation touching the lights. However they all go off-on after a while (1/2 hr) from over-heating. The electrician said that the insulation should not be touching the cans, even if IC rated. I disagree. I even tried to lower the bulbs as much as I could. What can I do?"

Answer: IC-rated lights are for use in insulated ceilings. I recommend contacting the manufacturer of the can lighting and asking for assistance.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 02:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 21, 2007

Question: What setting should we use for our dehumidifier?

RW writes from Edmonton, Alberta: "What should the humidity level be in a full basement and then in an adjacent crawl space. We are trying to determine what level setting to set our dehumidifier. Full basement is about 900 sq. feet, and the crawl space is about 300 sq. feet. The crawl space is a conditioned space. Both basement and crawl space are below ground (well, not so much the crawl space). Also, our outside climate experiences all 4 seasons experiencing temps from -20 celcius (winter) to +30 celcius (summer). The water table in our area is very high. We have dehumidifier - but would like a better idea of what the level should be set for our basement and our crawl space."

Answer: One of my Canadian friends recommends 30 to 35 percent relative humidity. He says it will feel comfortable and help reduce the risk of condensation in the winter.

North Dakota State University's Web site addresses the issue on their page titled "Keep Your Home Healthy." Author Dr. Kenneth Hellevang recommends humidity level in the winter of 30 to 40 percent in cold climates. A relative humidity above about 40 percent increases the potential for condensation on windows and other cool surfaces. Humidity levels below about 30 percent lead to dry skin and nasal passages, increasing the potential for respiratory illnesses.

You can find other perspectives on the Web as well, such as from the Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC). I also recommend checking with the manufacturer of your dehumidifier.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:22 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I boost R-value given the small space I have?

David writes from Poughkeepsie, New York: "I have an older home with 2x4 exterior walls which had never been insulated. The studs are 22.25in apart. I plan on custom ordering fiberglass insulation to the correct width and depth, but I am concerned about the low r-value (r13). How can I boost this value up given the small amount of depth I have to work with?"

Answer: You can boost the R-value of a 2 x 4 stud wall by adding Owens Corning FOAMULAR® insulation as sheathing on either the inside or outside face of the studs. Placement will depend on which side of the wall is opened.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:20 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 20, 2007

Question: How should I insulate the floor of a sun room?

Shawn writes from Prince Edward Island, Canada: "We are purchasing a home now which has a 12' X 14' sunroom on the back of the house (north side). Currently there is no insulation under the floor - plus there is no skirting around the outside of the sunroom so access is easy to get under to do the job. My question is, what "R Factor" insulation should I use and how to do it, ie vapor barrier etc. Also would I then put plywood on the bottom after the insulation is put between the floor joists. It has electric heat with cathedral ceilings and we would really like to use this space in the winter so we wanna do the insulating correctly."

Answer: The current requirement for floors over an unheated space in PEI is R 28. One way to achieve the required thermal resistance is to fill the spaces between the floor joists with R-20 batts followed by 2" of CodeBord® extruded polystyrene rigid insulation. Seal the joints of the foam sheathing with 4" wide strip of peel-and-stick air barrier membrane to help eliminate air leakage. This will give you a thermal resistance of R-30 and the foam insulation will help eliminate the thermal bridges and will help keep the floor warmer. The vapor barrier needs to go on the warm side. A plywood subfloor with sealed joints can act as a suitable vapor barrier on inside.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How much insulation do I add for R-49?

Boyd writes from Massapequa Park, New York: "I have a house built in 1958 with 2x6, 16" on center, ceiling joist with about 3 1/2" of kraft fiberglass insulation. I want to add more loosefill insulation to give me R49 for my area in NY. I also want to put in a raised floor in the middle of the attic to add some storage space above this, so that I will not compress and loose the R-value and want to give enough clearance and airflow. How much insulation needs to be added to get me this R-value??"

Answer: Although you reported the thickness of your existing insulation, I don't really know its R-value. Owens Corning, for example, manufactures three R values at 3-1/2" (R-11, R-13 and R-15). If you have the minimum, you need an addition R-38 in most areas of the country, according to U.S. Department of Energy recommendations. This would be 15-1/2" of our blown-in Advanced ThemaCube Plus® insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:29 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 19, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a pole barn?

Mary writes from New Boston, Michigan: "Need recommendations for insulating between an exterior steel (pole barn) wall and an interior cement block wall being planned to finish the interior. Radiant heating in cement floor in place."

Answer: The typical pole barn is not designed to be insulated. We can provide a couple of recommendations for insulating your pole barn but the recommendations are based on the assumption that the building will be conditioned and maintained like a typical home. If the building is not going to be maintained at a constant temperature with low relative humidity, you need to consult with a professional for information about insulating it for your special use.

Option A. Using Residential Batts: If you use standard residential batts, you will need to add framing and cover the insulation with a vapor retarder and whatever finish material the chose. If the insulation has a Kraft-paper facing, drywall is a recommended cover material.

Option B. Metal Building Insulation: A second option is metal building insulation, which is only available from a laminator or metal building contractor. Your pole barn supplier might have a list of contractors they use to insulate such buildings. Owens Corning manufactures six-foot-wide Metal Building Insulation, which is the widest insulation we make. However, metal building insulation is designed to be installed before the exterior metal is attached.

Always Note: The most important thing is that you have a sealed vapor retarder on the interior if the building is going to be heated. Kraft paper is probably not a sufficient vapor retarder in many pole barn applications in northern climates. If you do have to retrofit metal building insulation from the interior you will likely have to use some sort of mechanical fastener. This will likely be stick pins attached to the metal, then the insulation is be pushed over them and a cap put on the end to secure it.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:38 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I keep the insulation from falling?

Todd writes from Caledonia, Michigan: "I have a bonus room (playroom) above the garage, and I would like to add another layer of insulation. Currently it has 3.5" of insulation between the studs. I would like to add another layer of unfaced (correct?) insulation going horizontally but how do I keep it from falling or to what do I attach it? I don't have much room to maneuver in the crawl space above the garage."

Answer: Unfaced fiberglass insulation is appropriate for this application. You can use nylon banding or metal insulation supports to hold it in place.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 18, 2007

Question: Is it safe to add insulation?

Pat writes from Grande Prairie, Alberta: "I was looking at adding insulation to my attic. Presently we have vermiculite which we had tested to see if it contained asbestos. The report says that it contained under 1% asbestos. Is it safe to add either blown in insulation or bats to the attic?"

Answer: If you have concerns about the vermiculite insulation they should be addressed to the manufacturer. We don't know who made yours but one manufacturer of vermiculite insulation is WR Grace. You can find information about their product at: http://www.grace.com/About/EHS/Libby/Zonolite.aspx.

If you are thinking of removing the vermiculite, we recommend consulting a professional contractor to investigate your situation and then recommend how to remove and replace the vermiculite with fiberglass insulation.

A third option is to add fiberglass insulation on top of the exiting insulation without removing or disturbing it.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:12 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can you send Owens Corning spec sheets?

Mark writes from McAllen, Texas: "MAY YOU PLEASE SUPPLY ME WITH FACTUAL DOCUMENTATION ON THE OWENS CORNING ASTM SPEC SHEETS ON FORMELDAHYDE USED IN YOUR PRODUCT? AN ACTUAL MEASURE ON PERCENTAGE USED PER BAG. ONE MORE THING PLEASE SUPPLY ME WITH YOUR NEW GREENGUARD CERT AND MEASURES USED TO COMPLY WITH GREENGUARD STANDARDS AND ENEGY STAR CERTS AS WELL."

Answer: I will try to be helpful but some of what you are asking for is not measured or used to gauge the safety of insulation products. ASTM, for example, has a number of test methods and standard practices for how to do certain emission tests. There is not an ASTM requirement per se in any of our insulation specifications for emissions.

Our Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDSs) are available on the company's Web site. http://www.owenscorning.com/msds.asp

Almost all of our insulation products carry GREENGUARD Children and Schools Certification, and California's Collaborative for High Performance Schools (CHPS) accepts GREENGUARD certification for criteria in their building code Sec 01350, which many have said is one of the most rigorous because the modeled emission concentration requirement is so low. These certifications get to the heart of the issue by indicating through actual testing that emissions to the indoor space are below their low threshold limits. For more information about GREENGUARD certification and their testing standards, go to their Web site at www.greenguard.org. While there you can click on the "Find products" link and Search by Manufacturer to see all of the Owens Corning products that are GREENGUARD Certified.

As for Energy Star, you can also find information on their Web site at www.energystar.gov.

Based on more than 60 years of research, Owens Corning believes that its glass fiber insulation products are safe to manufacture and use. When installing new product, the company recommends following industry safe work practices to avoid irritation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:08 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 17, 2007

Question: How should I insulate a new room in the attic?

Bruce writes from Port Arkansas, Texas: "I have added a room in my attic and have been told by A/C guy I need r30 with tar paper covering on the attic side. I would like to have your recommendations. I live in very hot and humid area."

Answer: For a finished attic we do recommend installing Kraft-faced R-30 insulation under the roof deck. The Kraft paper has a layer of asphalt that acts as a vapor retarder and the roof deck needs to breathe. The R-30 should be installed in rafters in a way that leaves one inch (1") of airspace between the roof deck and the insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:05 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is it OK to install Kraft-faced insulation over poly?

Jud writes from Bedford, New Hampshire: "I am replacing the attic insulation in my 26'x54' foundation, 1969 built, split-level home which has 2x6 ceiling joists. The attic has 3 large gable vents which are 26"x32". The roof does not have ridge or soffit vents, but the large gable vents seem to provide the ventilation needed. I will be installing a gable vent fan to help with air movement as well.

THE QUESTION: The floor of the attic contains the insulation, which is 2x6 joists. They had a significant mouse problem, so I've removed all of the old insulation and mouse 'evidence', bodies, etc. There is a plastic vapor barrier under the joists (and on top of the drywall) which I wonder about. Should I remove the plastic before putting in the Kraft faced insulation I've purchased? Or is it ok to simply install the insulation (Kraft paper facing down) over the plastic? I've read some things that say it is preferable to have that vapor barrier, and some that say the Kraft paper also acts as a barrier, but not 100%, which is actually desirable to allow the attic to 'breathe'. It would be great to NOT have to remove all that plastic."

Answer: Kraft paper is rated as a vapor retarder. It tests at 1.0 perm. A vapor "barrier" would have perm of 0.0. That being said, only one vapor retarder is needed in this type of application. It is recommended that the Kraft facing be slashed when being used over 4-6 mil poly.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:02 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 14, 2007

Question: Can we add more insulation under the house?

Francine writes from Oxon Hill, Maryland: "We have a trailer made onto the house, the rooms are raised above the ground and very cold even though there is some insulation under the house, can we add more insulation and can we use another type of insulation and put it over the insulation already in place?"

Answer: It is acceptable to add any unfaced insulation to existing insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:36 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can you leave insulation exposed to the ground?

Dave writes from Minneapolis, Minnesota: "I was wondering in the situation below (insulating a screened porch floor), do you really need to place plywood on the furring strips? Or can you just place the insulation directly on the furring strips and exposed to the ground?"

Answer: The unfaced side of the insulation can be left exposed. If using Kraft paper-faced insulation, the facing needs to be covered.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:34 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 13, 2007

Question: How can I insulate an existing room?

Pil writes from Edgewater, New Jersey: "How can i help improve insulation of an existing room and would that also help better sound proof the room from noise from outside of the room?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures PINK FIBERGLAS™ insulation products for both thermal and acoustical control. The company does not manufacture a specific wall treatment product for your application. To use fiberglass insulation it will be necessary to remove existing wall finish (drywall), then insulate the framing of the wall (2x4 studs) and install new drywall. If you are insulating exterior walls, we recommend using faced insulation with an R-value of 13 or 15. Using FIBERGLAS insulation in the wall cavities will also help with noise control. Install the insulation with the vapor retarder facing the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:39 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Could insulating a concrete block wall on the inside allow frost problems?

William writes from Lachine, Quebec: "Our church, built 1952, has concrete block walls, no insulation, stucco outside, no interior wallboard. We proposed to insulate on the inside but were told this could cause frost problems in the block wall. Can this type of wall be insulated on the outside?"

Answer: Placing insulation on the interior side of the wall will change the performance of the wall since it will no longer see the heat from the building it previously absorbed in the winter months. However, these types of walls have been insulated successfully before from the interior. It is important to determine the correct amount of insulation to prevent this from happening based on interior conditions and building location (exterior conditions). A qualified building envelope consultant will be able to do such an analysis to determine the correct type and thickness of insulation to prevent wall from freezing and minimize heat loss and high energy bills.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:38 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 12, 2007

Question: How can I insulate the floor and roof of a sun room with very little space below and above?

Charles writes from Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin: "How can I insulate the floor and roof of a sun room with only 6" of access below and no attic. There is about 4" between the roof rafters accessible from a ridge vent."

Answer: What you describe is a very complex and difficult application. The answer with all of the possible variables is too much for my furry paws to type. Please call the nice people in the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss your situation. Their number is 1 800-438-7465.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What kind of cost savings can we expect if we use 2X6 walls with R-19 (or R-21) insulation?

Mike writes from Plainfield, Illinois: "I'm an Architect designing new homes. I've had several clients ask just what kind of energy savings (cost savings) they could expect if we design using 2X6 walls with R19 (or r21) insulation, instead of 2x4 walls with R13 (or R15). Obviously more is better, but many of my clients are looking for a Return on Investment. Also, are there any other studies that show similar increases in attics, basements, etc?"

Answer: It is difficult to give someone accurate numbers on payback because there are so many variables that come into play that impact energy savings. With that said, I did a quick analysis with our GEM program (Global Energy Master) and the annual savings for 2,000 square feet of wall area going from R-13 to R 19 is about $85. We know from experience that increasing your attic insulation from R-19 to R-38 can typically pay for itself in about 5 years. I do not have a copy but there was a study done years ago that showed going from no insulation in a basement to just R-11 can save $400 to $500 per season in cold climates like Chicago. If payback is someone's only reason for increasing their home's energy efficiency then it is unlikely you will convince them to go with more insulation. It is hard to put a price tag on energy efficiency and the benefits to the environment in terms of reduced use of natural resources and carbon emissions. And then there is comfort: In a well design/constructed energy-efficient home, every room will be within three degrees of the set point on the furnace, including bonus rooms. Insulation is not the only thing to detail in designing a new home. In my opinion, more focus should be placed on properly air sealing the home. Air infiltration will bypass the insulation reducing its effectiveness. Good HVAC design also has a big impact.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:32 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 11, 2007

Question: Can we insulate by building new walls inside our existing walls?

Marie-Louise writes from London, Ontario: "We would like to re-insulate our house and the way we want to do is to leave the old drywall in place and set up a new frame out of 2*4 that we will then fill in with insulation and install a vapour barrier before we put new drywall on it. We realise it will make the rooms a bit smaller but I am more worried about if that is a proper way or if it could lead to moisture/mold problems. There is no vapour barrier installed so the house has brick on the outside with some insulation in the walls (but not much)."

Answer: As long as the existing insulation does not have a vapor retarder on the warm side it is acceptable to build out the wall with 2x4s as described. You can then insulate the new framing with FIBERGLAS™ insulation, making sure the vapor retarder is on the warm side of the assembly. The vapor retarder should be continuous. You can then install drywall.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:10 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I insulate exterior walls with only 1-1/2 inches of available space?

Nate writes from Grayson, Kentucky: "I am renovating a VERY old house. I believe it was built around the 1940's. It is a "box frame" house with the outside boxing consisting of roughly 1" x 6" rough cut boards spaced about 1/2" apart with 2" x 2" studs on 24" centers! There is NO insulation at all!!! I need to insulate the walls somehow without having to frame up new walls because I'm trying to save as much space as possible and MONEY also! With only 1-1/2" of space thickness, what can I do to insulate the exterior walls???"

Answer: I recommend using PINK FOAMULAR® extruded foam insulation. The board can be cut and fit into the narrow framing. Although it is not an ideal application due to the labor involved in getting it to fit, the foam insulation will work. Once the foam is all in place you should fill any gaps with spray foam or caulk.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:08 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 10, 2007

Question: Can you help me find your basement panels?

Faith writes from Council Bluffs, Iowa: "I am getting into buying fixer upper houses, and reselling them again after I have done the needed work to them. I saw a commercial about some basement panels which work against mold and such, I've tried to find you website on this but not sure of my findings, could you please extend me the information on this product and possible lightweight and or the latest insulation you people manufacture."

Answer: You probably saw a commercial for the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System™. You can find the system on the Owens Corning Web site by clicking on the words Basement Finishing System. To assure optimum results, the Basement Finishing System™ is offered directly from Owens Corning and is installed by certified professionals. Call 1-800-BASEMENT™ or click here to find the Certified Installer nearest you. For other insulating options, click on the words Basement Walls and Foamular® Rigid Foam Insulation for Basement Walls. One page describes the process for using PINK fiberglass insulation and the other covers PINK foam insulation. Either method should help keep that space warmer and pictures are included.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:10 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I cut out channels for the furring strips?

Andrew writes from Silver Spring, Maryland: "I inherited a basement covered with 1" thick (R 4.5) foam board glued to the concrete walls without space in between. The basement has always been dry. I know I need to put up drywall over this insulation and it needs to be on furring strips. Can I cut out channels for the furring strips in between panels of the insulation? I thought I could install the furring strips on top of the insulation but I think it will be too deep for the electrical boxes. Can I use 1/2" X 2" furring strips to get around this problem? Or should I just tear down this insulation and start over? Any input appreciated."

Answer: Most foam insulation products can be cut and trimmed. For your information, Owens Corning manufactures a foam product for basement walls that is channeled for furring strips. It is InsulPink® extruded polystyrene foam Insulation. InsulPink insulation has a 7.5 R-value and attaches to a basement wall by means of wood furring strips - no framing is necessary - providing an uninterrupted insulating envelope along the entire wall.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:07 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 07, 2007

Question: How should I insulate an unheated garage?

Bob writes from Coventry, Rhode Island: "I recently built a room above my unheated attached garage. I insulated the garage ceiling with the vapor barrier pointing up toward the heated addition and the exposed insulation facing down into the garage. I plan to insulate the remaining three walls of the garage with leftover insulation from a prior project. For the walls, do I place the vapor barrier facing outward toward the interior of the garage or do I place the vapor barrier inward with the insulation exposed to the interior of the garage. I do not plan to heat the garage in the winter. Although the garage is cold in the winter, I am more concerned about the extreme heat generated inside the garage when the door is closed during the short summer months that we have in Rhode Island."

Answer: My friends at Owens Corning do not recommend insulating an unconditioned space. Doing so will create a "hot box." When the sun, ambient air and hot car engines heat the garage in the summer, the insulation will cause that heat to be retained longer.

If the garage shares a wall or two with the house and they are not insulated, you can place insulation in those walls to save energy and make the interior of your home more comfortable. That will also reduce noise transmission between the garage and adjacent rooms.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a product to cover the facing?

Matt writes from Saint Louis, Missouri: "During an upstairs closet renovation, I discovered that much of the insulation between the roof joists had fallen into the attic space. The existing insulation was held in place by cardboard stays stapled to the joists and then covered w/ black tar paper (again stapled to the joists).

I installed R-19 Kraft-faced batts in the joist spaces w/ the Kraft facing the open attic space (i.e. to the warm side). However, in reading the packaging info, it recommends against leaving the Kraft-facing exposed b/c of fire hazard.

Is there a product I need to apply over the newly installed insulation to cover the Kraft-facing in order to mitigate the fire hazard or am I forced to remove it all and start over?"

Answer: The Kraft paper facing should be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier such as half-inch gypsum wall board.

Typically, insulation batts are installed in unheated attics between and on top of the floor joists so the facing is installed down toward the living space. In that case, the thermal barrier is the ceiling of the floor below the attic. It seems that your attic is heated in the winter because the batts are installed in the attic roof rafters instead of the floor joists. In that case, you do need to cover the Kraft paper.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:45 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 06, 2007

Question: Why not use poly below grade?

Chris writes from Milwaukee, Wisconsin: "Why should I not use polyethylene on any below-grade walls over Kraft faced insulation? I have read that faced insulation is only a vapor retarder not a barrier and that a barrier should be used. But I have also read that I should not use a vapor barrier. Which one is correct?"

Answer: We do not recommend a plastic vapor retarder in below-grade or basement applications. The moisture content is generally high in basements and a plastic vapor retarder is too strong for those conditions. You will want to use a weaker vapor barrier such as Kraft paper so the cavity can breathe somewhat.

We use the term "retarder" because the facing on our FIBERGLAS™ insulation actually slows the movement of air or moisture-containing vapor. From our perspective, "barrier" would indicate that all moisture is blocked and that is not the case with our Kraft facing.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Does the paper side go up or down?

Susan writes from Foley, Alabama: "I am putting pieces of batt insulation in my attic. Does the paper side go up or down?"

Answer: That's a good and frequently asked question. The answer is: "It depends."

In heating climates, the vapor retarder is generally placed so it faces the "warm-in-winter" side of a wall or ceiling. In an unheated or unconditioned attic, that means the side with the vapor retarder is placed down toward the living space below.

Building codes in high humidity climates, however, may require the insulation to be placed so the facing is away from the conditioned space. In some cases they do not recommend a faced insulation. This varies from region to region. Since you live near the Gulf coast, we recommend checking with your local building department for the requirement in your area.

Another consideration is whether your attic already has insulation. If you are adding insulation in the attic the original layer may already have a vapor retarder facing the living area of your home. If you add a second vapor retarder with another layer of faced insulation, any moisture that does get through the first layer may condense on the second.

Install the second layer on top of the first layer, between the joists, unless the joist cavity is full. In that case, install the second layer perpendicular to the first layer, covering the ceiling joists to reduce heat loss through the wood.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:42 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 05, 2007

Question: How should we insulate attic storage space?

Nancy writes from Oostburg, Wisconsin: "We just bought a house that was built in 1918. Upstairs has a door that opens to a walk in storage space that is unfinished. It runs the length of the house. There is R-19 insulation on the lower east wall where the roof meets the wall. There is no insulation on the south or north ends of this space. I don't think this area is heated. We would like to better insulate and put up wall board and shelves etc., to make this space usable for coats and storage; the space is dry. Also on the west side of the house in a closet there is a panel that pulls out to a crawl space it is the same as the east side of the house with the roof pitch meeting the west wall. How can we insulate this space? We may or may not store boxes in there. Right now this area has the wiring for a dish which we are not using. Please help so we do this right."

Answer: It is only necessary to insulate areas that are heated and/or conditioned. If you are planning on heating and/or conditioning the attic space, insulate any exterior wall for thermal control and any interior wall for sound control. For additional questions or assistance, call our customer service department at 1-800-Get Pink (438-7465).

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:47 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Where can I find the attic stair cover on your Web site?

Butch writes from Baldwin, Wisconsin: "I am interested in the attic stair cover. I went to half a dozen websites for Owens Corning but never found the one that listed in the archive. Which one am I supposed to go to?"

Answer: The page must have been moved when the company updated its Web site. Sorry about that. Here is a direct link to information about the PINKCap® Attic Stair Insulator: www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/pinkcap.asp. If it gets moved again, go to Owens Corning Building Materials and Services, Insulation (link found upper right), Select a Product (drop-down window) and select PINKCap Attic Stair Insulator.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:44 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

December 04, 2007

Question: Does a ceiling fan qualify for an energy tax credit?

Robert writes from Columbus, Indiana: "Does a Rieker room conditioner ceiling fan qualify for energy star tax credit?"

Answer: Unfortunately, I can't answer your question. Owens Corning does not manufacture or market ceiling fans so I have never done a commercial for that product. My recommendation is to check with the manufacturer. The company can be found online at http://www.buyreiker.com.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:18 PM | | TrackBacks (0)