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January 31, 2008

Question: Should I install batt insulation with the vapor retarder on the flooring side?

Ereil writes from somewhere in the world: "I removed the ceiling and previous insulation in my garage. Now I have the above floor and joists. I've seen batt insulation in between the joists with a vapour barrier (plastic sheet) on the lower side of the joists. But the vapor barrier should be on the warm side. Would it be recommended to put batt insulation with Kraft paper installed on flooring side?"

Answer: If the garage is heated you do not need a vapor barrier. If the garage is not heated you can install a vapor barrier on underside of subfloor sheathing or paint it with an oil-based paint, then install batt insulation between joists so vapor barrier (poly or paint) is on the warm-in-winter side. Because your note did not include your postal code I don't know where you live, but be advised that Owens Corning does not sell insulation with a Kraft-paper facing in Canada.

Question: Is insulation required around a monolithic slab?

Mike writes from Virginia Beach, Virginia: "Is exterior insulation required around a monolithic slab in Virginia Beach to meet code?"

Answer: Unfortunately, Owens Corning does not have up-to-date information on all of the local codes. I suggest calling a local building inspector.

January 30, 2008

Question: Will the R-value be too high for a basement?

David writes again from Louisville, Kentucky: "I have a walk-out basement with 2X6 studs 12 inches on center. Can I use the Pink 2X6 R-19 with Kraft facing and cut it down for the smaller opening? Will the R value be too high for a basement or should I use the R-13 that fits a 2X4?"

Answer: The recommended R-value for a basement is 11. Because you have 2 x 6 studs you can use R-13 or R-19 insulation. Having a higher R-value installed will not hurt. The payback time due to energy savings will be a little longer but you will also be reducing your home's carbon footprint by using less energy to heat and cool your home.

Question: Is there an easy way to remove blown-in insulation?

Lori writes from Foley, Minnesota: "I was wondering if there is an inexpensive way to remove blown-in insulation from a garage roof? Something I could do myself."

Answer: My only suggestion is to rake it up and bag it. Take your time and rake "gently" to minimize dust. To minimize the temporary skin irritation associated with fiberglass insulation, you should also wear a long sleeved shirt that is loose at the neck and wrists, long pants, gloves and a cap. Wear eye protection (safety goggles, safety glasses or a face shield or a combination of these, as appropriate). And wear a disposable dust respirator to minimize the inhalation of dust. When you finish the job, launder the clothes you wore separately and take a warm-water shower with soap. Most people report no problems when they follow these procedures.

January 29, 2008

Question: Do we replace the poly and insulation?

David writes from Louisville, Kentucky: "We recently discovered mold in our finished basement on the surface of the drywall at the bottom behind the base board molding on two exterior walls and on the back side of the drywall of the same walls. The basement was finished 28 years ago. My friend and I put on our Biohazard suits and went in this weekend and removed the drywall. We also found some mold between the poly barrier and the insulation. We removed all of the affected poly and the insulation. The mold appears to be entering from inside the room as no source of outside moisture appears to be present i.e. no moisture on the studs or stains from a leak. The people that owned the house for 28 years prior to us moving in never had a dehumidifier and checking the humidity level of the basement it appears high, around 60% this week outside humidity is running about 45% in our area.

"My question is, do we replace the poly and insulation with un-faced insulation and new poly or use just use Kraft-faced insulation? Keep in mind that on most of the walls only the bottom half of the wallboard had to be removed since the mold stopped about 12 inches from the bottom of the floor and that the old insulation and poly will remain in the drywall on the upper part of the wall. The house has a pressure treated wood foundation with a concrete slab instead of the conventional poured concrete foundation that is more prevalent in our area. It also has poplar siding that has been covered with foam and vinyl siding. The area of the basement being replaced is a walk-out with a sliding glass door has a cold air return and two ceiling registers. We plan to replace the removed drywall with either Mold Tough Sheetrock or Georgia-Pacific DensArmor Plus paperless drywall and install a dehumidifier to help prevent mold in the future."

Answer: We recommend installing Kraft-faced insulation. We also recommend checking your local building code for information related to the use of poly in a basement. If there is a moisture issue in the walls, it is generally not a good idea to use a poly because it is too strong of a vapor barrier. We recommend using a weaker vapor retarder such as Kraft paper so the cavity can breathe somewhat.

Question: Should I open the wall and check for wet insulation?

Eben writes from Wasilla, Alaska: "We built our home last year and just last week we sprung a leak on the window next to the fireplace (the leak was about a pint or less in a bucket). The builder replaced the metal fireplace cover on top of the chimney. Assumption here is that this was the cause of the leak. I know the insulation is wet because I opened an electric outlet box on the wall and placed a Q-tip in the crack and it got wet. The builder fixed the leak and says that the fiberglass insulation will dry out. Should I open the wall space and check it for wet insulation and replace? There has been no leak since replacement of the metal fireplace pan above."

Answer: When fiber glass building insulation becomes wet it will temporarily lose some of its thermal resistance (R-value). The amount of loss depends on the degree of water saturation. In this case, the spaces between the fibers that were previously occupied by air would be occupied by water. Since water is a much better conductor of heat than air, its presence would cause the insulation to "short circuit."

However, fiber glass insulation does not absorb water and the insulation fibers will not be structurally altered nor permanently affected in any other way. So, provided the insulation becomes dry again and regains its original thickness, it will regain its original performance level.

A physical and visual inspection should be done to ensure the insulation is dry. If the insulation is wet, Owens Corning recommends that it be removed from the cavity space to ensure that the insulation and facing (if applicable) are completely dried. Drying time may vary depending on the wetness of the insulation, ambient air temperature and relative humidity.

In the case of dirty or contaminated water entering the product, there is only one answer - replace it! Whenever any foreign substance (dirt, mold spores or bacteria) comes in contact with the insulation, we advise you to remove and replace it. The moisture and foreign substance can support mold and mildew growth and even give off a musty odor.

The Kraft facing should not deteriorate when subjected to water. There is a possibility of discoloration but the water should actually be repelled by the facing due to the process in which it is manufactured.

January 28, 2008

Question: What is the best solution for my garden shed/playhouse?

Ken writes from Warner Robins, Georgia: "I am building an 8 x 12 garden shed/playhouse with 2x6 rafters with a ridge beam. I plan to sheetrock the inside of the shed and it will have cathedral ceilings. I want to put in a ridge vent and vented soffits, but my concern is there won't be enough flow of air between the sheetrock and the sheathing if I put in insulation. We are located in middle Georgia, so summers are hot. What would be the best application for my situation?"

Answer: For a cathedral ceiling with 2 x 6 rafters we recommend Kraft-faced R-13 insulation. That will leave an air space between the top of the FIBERGLAS™ insulation and the bottom of the roof deck. The also requires soffit-to-ridge ventilation.

Question: How should I add insulation to a knee wall?

Carl writes from Kittery, Maine: "I have a knee wall insulated with r15 and i had to get behind it to do some work. Code in my area is now r19 - do i have to rip out everything, furr the knee wall studs and reinstall r19 or can i just put foamular board on the back side (facing the cold air space) to increase the R value, or would it create a double vapor barrier (from the inside out it would look like this:(sheetrock/kraft paper/r15/foamular)."

Answer: FOAMULAR® Insulation is not a product we recommend on the back of a knee wall. The use of rigid foam in that situation may lead to condensation on the front of the product. We recommend adding unfaced FIBERGLAS™ Insulation. This may require insulation supports or netting.

January 25, 2008

Question: Can I leave the old insulation material on as an insulator under new vinyl siding?

Ted writes from Rutherford, New Jersey: "I have a 100-year-old Colonial house in Northern New Jersey. Original siding is cedar clapboard. Back in the 1940's or 1950's the clapboards were covered with a 1/2" black insulation board (it is like a compressed Celotex-type material) and then asphalt siding shingles on top of the insulation. What is that old insulation material called, and can I leave the old insulation material on as an insulator under new vinyl siding? The old asphalt shingles are coming off."

Answer: Owens Corning residential insulation products are PINK and the company has a trademark for the color pink when used with building materials. I am not sure what insulation you have there, but I have never heard of any limitations on what vinyl siding can be installed over.

Question: How should I insulate a detached garage?

Mike writes from Dayton, Ohio: "I am insulating a detached garage, is there any reason why I should not use vapor barrier faced insulation in the ceiling?"

Answer: You do not say whether your detached garage will be heated or cooled. My friends at Owens Corning do not recommend insulating an unconditioned space. Doing so will create a "hot box." When the sun, ambient air and hot car engine heats the garage in the summer, the insulation will cause that heat to be retained longer. If the space is conditioned and the attic is ventilated, you can use Kraft-faced insulation in the ceiling and walls.

January 24, 2008

Question: Can I add a rigid insulation material on the floor?

Wayne writes from Vestal, New York: "I live in an old Cape Cod style house that was built in 1950. It has crawl spaces that are planked floors that insulation has been blown in on the ceilings below the attic floor.I want to use this area as a storage space and must walk on the existing floor but I want to add more insulation to that floor area. Can I add a rigid insulation material on the floor surface that will allow me to walk and store articles on it?"

Answer: Owens Corning does not have a product that can be used in the way you described. Your local building code will no doubt require that the foam insulation be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier, such as a flooring material, for fire safety.

Question: Does Owens Corning make pour-able insulation?

Chris writes from Venetia, Pennsylvania: "I would like to add insulation to my attic on top of the existing blown-in cellulose. The plan is to use rolls run perpendicular to the floor joists. Is there a pourable product available to eliminate the need to cut 15" x 6" pieces to fit between the rafters where they meet the floor joists?"

Answer: Owens Corning does manufacture blown-in FIBERGLAS™ Insulation but it is not "pour-able." The loosefill insulation the company makes is blown in using a machine that fluffs it up to assure good thermal performance. Owens Corning loosefill or blown-in insulation is generally installed by professional contractors

January 23, 2008

Question: How should I insulate a basement I am finishing?

Mike writes from Antioch, Illinois: "I am finishing my basement and need to insulate. The recommendation from the link on the website is r-11. The system you offer is only r7.5. 1) Can I instead use 1" FOAMULAR 150 and build a 2x4 wall in front of it and add r-11 unfaced? 2) How do I (within code IRC2003) 'mechanically attach' the foam? 3) The wall in question is a 'lookout' basement with preinstalled fiberglass with a metallic looking facing in a 2x6 cavity on the top half, and the poured concrete on the lower. Do I need to remove the facing on the upper half? 4) How do I transition from one to the other - they are not in alignment; there is a ledge."

Answer: Thanks for your questions but you have several for which there are no simple answers. Rather than engage in a lengthy exchange of e-mail messages, I suggest you call the Owens Corning Customer Service Department at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Question: Do I need rafter vents when using batts?

Mauday writes from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan: "Is it necessary to install insulation stops when using fiberglass batts?"

Answer: Canada's national building code requires 2.5" of ventilation between top of insulation and underside of roof sheathing. If you have a low-sloped roof, insulation can touch the underside of the roof sheathing at the eaves and block ventilation of attic. In this case, a solution like Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents is needed to ensure the required ventilation space of 2.5 inches.

If the slope of the roof is high enough that insulation near the eaves has a minimum of 2.5 inches of clearance between the top of the insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing, then they are not required

Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents are especially helpful when blown-in insulation is used because it is hard for even the best installer to get the specified R value all the way to the edge of the attic without blocking the air flow up from the soffit to the ridge or other vents. Fiberglass batts can be placed more carefully but there is still a risk that the remaining air space will be less than required by code and some of the air flow will be blocked.

January 22, 2008

Question: What insulation would you recommend for an infrequently heated boat house?

Jim writes from Naperville, Illinois: "I would like to insulate a 15X25 boathouse for infrequent heating needs in the winter and finish the ceiling. The flat roof has a vinyl Duradek roof covering over 3/4 inch tongue and groove plywood. The flat roof is 2X12 construction (12 inches on center) that slopes downward 1/4 inch per foot for 15 feet from the south side of the roof to the north side. There is an overhang and eave vents on the north side (low side) of the roof and no eaves or vents on the north side (high side) of the roof. I am concerned that all the heat will collect on the north side (high side) of the roof during the summer months if I install insulation between the 2X12's given the 1/4 inch slope. Is heat build-up or condensation a concern with such a small slope if I only intend to infrequently heat the boathouse? What type of insulation would you recommend for this roof application and how much of a gap is required between the roof deck and the insulation? If I need to create ventilation on the north side do you have any recommendations?"

Answer: For 2"x12" construction we recommend Kraft-faced R-38C with the facing installed toward the warm-in-winter side. A minimum one inch of air space is required between the insulation and the roof deck. I don't have a special recommendation for ventilating the north side. Owens Corning markets VentSure® ridge vents that are installed with new roofing shingles but there are other products on the market that may be appropriate for your project.

Question: Is there an R 19 product that will fit inside a 2x4 wall?

Mike writes from Los Angeles, California: "I have a 2x4 wall that I need to insulate to r-19. There are exposed posts and beams that show on both sides of the wall, which do not allow an overlay of rigid insulation, or furring the studs. The wall is only 18ft x 9ft, so cost is not really an issue. Is there a product or combination of products that will fit INSIDE the 2x4 wall that will give me an r-19 value?"

Answer: The maximum R-value of Owens Corning FIBERGLAS® Insulation for a 2 x 4 wall is R-15.

January 21, 2008

Question: What kind of vapor retarder do I need?

Delmar writes from Masontown, West Virginia: "i have a mfg. home i want to insulate the floor i have unfaced insulation. what kind of vapor barrier do i need. do i put it toward the living space?"

Answer: We recommend using faced insulation when a vapor retarder is needed. Faced insulation typically has a Kraft paper facing. A 4 to 6 mil poly vapor retarder is commonly used if you already have unfaced Fiberglas insulation. The vapor retarder is installed toward the warm-in-winter side.

Question: Do I need another gable vent?

Steven writes from Rutland, Vermont: "Our house only has 1 gable vent on the west side of the house. An addition was put on the east side years ago but no gable vent was put in. To further complicate the matter a cupola vent with a weathervane was put atop the addition. I do not know if it is just for decoration or if it really is acting as an attic vent because the attic part of the addition is blocked off with plywood, but I do see a cut-out nearer to the ridge in the form of a triangle. Also, the house has perfect soffit vents that I see from the outside but the insulation in the attic is blocking the flow from the inside. I plan on putting those things you put to keep the insulation from blocking the soffit vents. Would this be enough or do you think I need a gable vent on the east side? Also, is there any way of checking to see if the cupola vent is functional not just decorative? We also have a ridge vent the whole length of the house. Also, is more insulation needed other than the one layer that is there?"

Answer: Gable vents work best when used to provide cross ventilation. So a gable vent on the east end would generally be the way to go. But soffit vents are also involved although blocked at this time. Soffit vents work in conjunction with ridge vents which you do not have. So what you have is a mixed ventilation system. Soffit vents are for intake and that air is most likely exiting the one gable vent. It is hard to tell if the cupola provides and ventilation without actually getting up and looking at it, either from underneath in the attic or above from the roof. They are typically decorative. If you are using our FIBERGLAS™ insulation it will be necessary to layer the material to achieve higher R-values. For example, to achieve R-49 in an attic floor, which is recommended by the U.S. Department of Energy for many parts of the country, you could layer R-30 and R-19 insulation.

January 18, 2008

Question: How do I calculate "U" Value?

Guillermo writes from somewhere in Chile: "I know that the "U" value is reciprocal to "R" Value. I know the "R" value, but how do I calculate the "U" Value?"

Answer: The answer to your question can be easy or complicated, depending on whom you ask and the level of detail and accuracy you need or want. For example, here is a formula I found online: U = 1/ {(1/ho) + (l/ k) + (1/hi)}.

A simpler answer is to add up the R-values of materials, airfilms and air spaces from one side of the assembly to the other, then invert this number to obtain the U-value.

U-value indicates the thermal conductivity of a system, such as a wall assembly, while R-value indicates the thermal resistance of an individual material or component of the wall system.

R-value is the measure most commonly seen on insulation products. The higher the R-value the better the insulating performance will be. A well-insulated wall will typically incorporate R 13 to R 21 insulation. Well-insulated attics and cathedral ceilings may have R 30 to R 49.

You can find more information online at various Websites, including CLEAR (Comfortable Low Energy Architecture), a website hosted in the U.K. to help design energy efficient buildings, and Wikipedia, the free online encyclopedia. The Clear website explains the formula listed at the beginning of this answer.

Question: Could cat odor be in the unfinished ceiling insulation?

Rebecca writes from Lebanon, Pennsylvania: "I purchased my home a year ago. The previous owners had multiple cats in the unfinished basement and they were not litter box trained. The basement smelled HORRIBLE! Though I scrubbed the walls and floors, the basement still has an odor. Could the odor from the previous owner's cats be in the insulation in my unfinished ceiling? Do I need to replace my insulation?"

Answer: Ouch! I hate it when my feline friends make a mess. In their defense, I must say that we cats really aren't "trained" to use a litter box but gravitate to them naturally if they are relatively clean. Therein lays the problem in some multiple-cat situations. And if we are upset about something, we can forget our instincts.

Getting back to your question, in my humble opinion the insulation could very well have been contaminated by the cats' odor. I recommend replacement. However, don't count on that to entirely solve the problem as the ceiling joists and other materials in the basement could have absorbed some of the moisture in the air. Good luck.

January 17, 2008

Question: Is housewrap needed in this system?

Sharon writes from Harrisburg, North Carolina: "I am currently renovating an older home that has existing siding made of some form of wood or board. I am replacing the siding with an insulated siding product. The installer said it wasn't necessary to remove the old siding, and also that a housewrap is not needed with this product. This seems fishy to me. Should I be concerned?"

Answer: Owens Corning considers the application of PINKWRAP® housewrap to be optional. The product functions like a windbreaker to slow leaks and drafts (air infiltration). You can check with your local building code to see whether it is required in your area.

Question: What should I do about a moisture problem with my metal roof?

Sam writes from Senecaville, Ohio: "I have a metal roof over 3/4" stringers, not a lot of metal showing. However, in the winter my roof condensates and drips. There is plenty of insulation laying on top of my ceiling rolled insulation, vapor side down and blown in over top. What can I use as a vapor barrier. I know that I'll have to unscrew and remove the metal to apply. Any suggestions?"

Answer: It sounds as though there is already a vapor barrier on the rolled insulation, and that adding ventilation is what is needed here. There is information on the Owens Corning Web site that will help you determine the amount of ventilation you need.

January 16, 2008

Question: Should I insulate my garage?

Alan writes from Sioux Falls, South Dakota: "My house has an unconditioned attached garage. The garage walls have sheetrock, then a plastic vapor barrier and insulation, but the ceiling just has sheetrock. I'd like to insulate the ceiling by adding batt insulation above it in the attic (to keep it more comfortable in the summer and winter). Should I use faced or unfaced batts? (i.e. Should an unconditioned space have a vapor barrier between the sheetrock and the insulation?)"

Answer: Sorry to disappoint you but Owens Corning does not recommend insulating an unconditioned space. Adding insulation to the attic above the garage will not make the garage cooler in the summer. In fact, it may tend to create a hot box because the insulation will help to maintain a temperature whether it be hot or cold. It will trap vehicle engine heat in the summer, for example. So the only way to benefit from adding insulation above the garage will be to condition (heat and/or cool) the space after insulating. A vapor retarder is not necessary between two conditioned or unconditioned spaces.

Question: Should I insulate other surfaces in the garage?

Mark writes from Springfield, New Jersey: "We have a 1941 Cape with most walls being plaster (thereby limiting access to almost all of the potentially insulate-able areas). The original insulation is a terrible, dried-out, crumbled mess that kind of looks like shredded bits of paper mixed with blown-in insulation. Making matters worse is the fact that the house was re-sided on top of the original asbestos shingles, which are on top of old sheathing which is dried-out and wavy (hello air flow at the sill plate).

"I have taken to using spray foam at the outer edge/base at the house. I've updated the insulation on every wall which I have opened up (redone kitchen and baths, portion of the attic floor above living space). It's terrible and drafty.

"To my current project question: I need to make an odd-sized door (30x64x2") used to access attic space above my garage and am wondering what would be the best insulation to use for this.

"The door will be on a 2nd interior floor wall at the end of the house. The other three walls in the area where the door will open to are all un-insulated exterior walls of the garage, as are the floor and ceiling in that space. I intend to use 2x2 studs to create the interior frame/structure of the door and 1/4" plywood to sandwich the faces of that frame after filling the space inside with compressed R-13. One obvious issue is that the R-value will go to pot, but how much? Enough to prefer using the foam-board type insulation? Is there any reason to insulate those other surfaces in the garage?

"It is already getting extremely hot and cold above the garage. I have also insulated that same wall on the inside of the garage, after cutting out the old plywood. Is it worth putting up plywood again?"

Answer: If you compress R-13 into a 2x2 cavity it will yield an R-8 insulating value. Two inches of FOAMULAR® Insulation will give you an R-10. The plywood is necessary if the insulation you used has exposed Kraft paper. It is a good idea for fire safety and building codes generally require that the paper facing be covered. Exposed unfaced fiberglass insulation does not need to be covered.

January 15, 2008

Question: Can I use an adhesive to attach fiberglass insulation to concrete?

Andrew writes again from Baltimore, Maryland: "Can an adhesive be used to attach fiberglass insulation to concrete? There are no joists running along the ceiling; its just one large slab of concrete."

Answer: I do not know of such an adhesive. Typically, if there is no framing, insulation is attached to concrete using impaling pins.

Question: How big of a mistake did I make?

Mike writes from Mound Valley, Kansas: "I recently installed wall insulation with the paper facing to the outside (not knowing that it mattered). I have found out that the paper should be facing to the inside in my area (S.E. Kansas). The drywall is installed and finished now. How big of a mistake did I make?"

Answer: The idea is that the vapor retarder be installed toward the warm-in-winter side to keep moisture/condensation out of the fiberglass insulation. Essentially, the vapor retarder slows the movement of humid air to a cold surface where it could cause condensation.

Unfortunately there is no easy fix for the situation you describe.

January 14, 2008

Question: How should I increase the R-value in a knee wall?

Dan writes from Buffalo, New York: "I have a one-time access to an area above an attached garage where a knee wall from an overhead room meets the cold attic space from the roof. Currently, the knee wall (2 x 4) is insulated with fiberglass and I want to increase the R-value. I have read that foam backer board could be installed against the studs but wouldn't an additional layer of fiberglass be more efficient than the foam backer? What should I use and what thickness should I go with."

Answer: We recommend adding unfaced fiberglass to the back of the existing insulation. Be sure not to block any ventilation. You may need insulation supports since unfaced insulation cannot be stapled.

Question: What are your thoughts about these insulation methods for basements?

J writes from Rockaway, New Jersey: "Basement wall -- I saw in a home improvement show a method for insulation a basement. They used 2" rigid foam and glued them to the walls. They tuck-taped and glued the seams to bond the pieces together. They didn't use a vapor barrier which was not needed. They framed the walls for drywall over the foam. I like this method but I don't see anyone else doing it this way. What kind of glue could you use?

Basement floor -- They insulated the floor by laying 1" rigid foam and screwed 3/8th plywood using Tapcon® screws into the concrete basement floor. What are your thoughts on this method? I would like to do it this way but I would have to use 1/2" foam. What are your thoughts about this insulation?"

Answer: What you describe is a fairly common method for insulating basement walls. You would need a special non-petroleum-based adhesive that is compatible with extruded polystyrene foam insulation. Owens Corning also manufactures a product for basement walls called InsulPink® insulation. InsulPink insulation is a FOAMULAR® insulation product that is applied using furring strips instead of adhesive.

The floor application you describe is also acceptable.

January 11, 2008

Question: Do I need to raise the wires up over the insulation?

Charley writes from Thackerville, Oklahoma: "Can I blow insulation over my existing electrical wires without the wires getting hot or do I need to raise the wires up over the insulation?"

Answer: It is fine to insulate over and around electrical wires as long as they are not the old knob and tube style. Knob and tube wiring is sometimes found in buildings built before 1950 and dating all the way back to the late 1800s. The term refers to the porcelain knobs that the wiring was wrapped around as it went around corners and the porcelain tubes the wires ran through as they penetrated wood beams, joists, floor boards and walls. If your home has this system, we recommend hiring a licensed electrician who has experience with knob and tube wiring to review it.

Question: Can I disable a vapor retarder?

Rich writes from Meriden, Connecticut: "I have a large amount of left-over R-19 faced insulation. I'd like to use it as a second layer over my existing attic insulation. I know I should be using UN-faced insulation but wonder if I can either pull off the facing, or just make a lot of "slits" in the facing to disable the second vapor barrier?"

Answer: Disabling the vapor retarder by slitting it is acceptable. Install the product with the facing side down after the vapor retarder has been disabled.

January 10, 2008

Question: Should I insulate the exterior garage wall?

Chris writes from San Antonio, Texas: "I am building a new house in San Antonio. Coming from the Midwest, I am wondering if I should insulate the exterior garage wall. The house will be 4 sides brick."

Answer: We recommend insulating the wall that is connected to the house. If the garage is not going to be used as a conditioned space, insulating the rest of the walls is not recommended. Faced insulation should be used with the insulation installed so the facing is toward the house.

Question: How should I install fanfold insulation?

Sarah writes from Coden, Alabama: "How do you install fanfold insulation panels over a curved mobile home roof? The rafters are 2 ft apart. The manual that I am using merely says lay it out and duct-tape the seams. This seems a little dicey should a wind come up. If it can be secured with glue, what glue can you use and not melt the covering?"

Answer: Fanfold is a re-siding board used over existing vinyl siding before adding new siding to a home. We have no recommendation for using it on a roof. We are not familiar with the manual you refer to in your note. If you want to discuss the situation with a customer service representative, call Owens Corning at 1-800-GET-PINK™ (438-7465).

January 09, 2008

Question: What insulation should I use for a garage ceiling?

Andrew writes from Baltimore, Maryland: "My kitchen is above my unheated garage. It can get quite cold in my kitchen. The ceiling in the garage is concrete. I only need to insulate the garage ceiling. Which insulation/R-value should I use?"

Answer: We recommend Kraft-faced FIBERGLAS™ R-19 or R-25 for the garage ceiling. The vapor retarder (Kraft paper) should be installed to the warm-in-winter side (or up toward the kitchen).

Question: How is a 15-minute thermal barrier achieved?

Steve writes from Orem, Utah: "Please provide me information regarding the requirement of have a 15-minute thermal barrier as I look at providing insulation for a building. How is the 15-minute barrier typically achieved? What are some of the most common or effective ways of achieving the 15 minute barrier?"

Answer: Typically, half-inch gypsum wall board is used to achieve a 15-minute thermal barrier.

January 08, 2008

Question: Is exposed insulation less energy efficient?

Rhiannon writes from Gaylord, Michigan: "Currently, our laundry room has just the insulation hanging from ceiling and no tiles covering it. First, does this decrease the efficiency? Also, is this a violation of a building code?"

Answer: If the insulation is installed snuggly between the joists and staying in place, there should not be a problem. Not being covered does not decrease the insulation's thermal efficiency. Leaving the fiberglass insulation exposed is not a problem; it is the paper facing -- if there is one -- that must be covered with a 15 minute thermal barrier. I have not heard of this being a building code violation but I recommend checking with your local building inspector to be sure.

Question: What kind of insulation do we need?

Emily writes from Ore City, Texas: "We just bought our first home and the garage was semi converted so we decided to convert it all the way. We have 2 walls of brick which we will frame over and add insulation, and one framed wood that has paper covered insulation, and then the big wall where we are going to take down the garage door and put up a wall and brick the outside to match the rest of the house.

"My questions are what kind of insulation do we need to use, what kind of moisture barrier do we need to use, and in the attic what kind of insulation do we need to use above the room we are converting? We are going to connect the central heat/air conditioning into that room. There is currently no insulation over that room but there is blown in insulation everywhere else, we were going to add extra blown in insulation if we need to do the same over that room. We are very energy efficient and we want that room to be energy efficient as well."

Answer: If you will be using 2x6 wall studs you can insulate with R-19 or even R 21. The typical wall is 2x4. In this case you can use R-13 or R-15. The higher the R-value, the more insulating power the insulation has. For the attic we recommend a thicker fiberglass insulation product, either batt or blown-in type. Our blown-in product is typically available through contractors. Batt insulations are retail products.

For attics you can insulate using 12" R-38 for example. If the attic above the room has proper ventilation you may not need a vapor retarder, on the attic insulation. The standard residential vapor retarder is the Kraft facing on our insulation products marked FACED.

January 07, 2008

Question: Can I put fanfold on top of the attic flooring?

Dave writes from Summit, New Jersey: "I've got a partially floored attic that vents to the outside. I've put additional batts down over the un-floored bits. Can I put fanfold over top of the flooring for additional insulation? Even If I pulled up the floor, there isn't more than 1-2" of room. The attic gets very little foot traffic."

Answer: Fanfold is a re-siding board used over existing vinyl siding before re-siding a home. We have no recommendation for using it in an attic. If any type of foam insulation is used it will need to be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier for fire safety.

Question: Is it better if the insulation breathes?

Jeff writes from Windsor, Pennsylvania: "I'm redoing my crawl space under my house with new insulation. I have at least 5 vent holes and was wondering if it is required to use a vapor barrier after I hang the new insulation. I hear that you can do it either way, but it is better if the insulation "breathes"."

Answer: We recommend faced insulation in an unheated crawlspace. The vapor retarder should face the warm-in-winter side, which in your case is the interior of the home.

January 04, 2008

Question: Could we achieve significant energy savings without modifying the physical structure of commercial buildings?

John writes from New Zealand: "Do you think that a significant amount of energy could be saved in commercial buildings by having more sophisticated HVAC control systems? In other words, could significant improvements be made without modifying the physical structure of buildings?"

Answer: That's a good question. I hope the answer is "Yes" and that it happens soon. Unfortunately, I don't have any expertise when it comes to HVAC control systems. My energy-saving knowledge all comes from doing insulation commercials. I checked with my friends at Owens Corning and they suggest contacting one or more of the companies that make HVAC control systems. You may be able to find them through their trade associations like ASHRAE (American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers), ARI (Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute) and CSIA (Control System Integrators Association). There may be similar organizations in New Zealand.

Question: How should I insulate under my roof?

Jeff writes from Grand Island, New York: "I have a cathedral ceiling, with 4 x 10" exposed beams, 2' o/c, 2 x 6 t&g sheathing with 2" of