Pat writes from Kenosha, Wisconsin: "I have a cabin in Wisconsin that I close up over the winter. I heat the basement during the winter but not the rest of the cabin. I'm thinking of insulating the basement ceiling, how should I do this? Also the basement walls are insulated on both sides."

Answer: We recommend Kraft-faced R-19 or Kraft-faced R-25 fiberglass insulation with the paper facing the heated area. The paper facing then needs to be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier like half-inch gypsum wall board.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:55 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Barbara writes from Bellingham, Washington: "Our home is 29 years old and the insulation is getting thin, a local home inspector suggests adding R19 blown insulation on the top of the old insulation. Do we need to add plastic on top of this blown insulation?"

Answer: No we do not recommend installing plastic over existing insulation before you add blow-in insulation. Nor do we recommend installing it over the new insulation. The vapor retarder should be on the warm-in-winter side and putting it on top of either insulation would not place it properly. When adding insulation to existing insulation, you generally don't need to add a vapor retarder.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:30 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Steve writes from Hawthorne, New York: "My cape cod has a full dormer in back and nothing in front. The insulation in front was on the roof side- and not on the knee walls - is that correct? Or - from what I see here - only the knee wall on the second floor and the attic floor should have insulation. Is that correct - should I take down the insulation that is there? Could you show a diagram of a cape?"

Answer: I can’t find any diagrams but I recommend removing the insulation from the roof line behind the knee wall and placing it on the floor behind the knee wall, then insulate the knee wall itself. Of course, the vapor retarder should go toward the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:27 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Tammy writes from Bellevue, Michigan: "Can you blow in cellulose insulation into a 3-1/2" wall cavity that already contains 1-1/2" batt insulation that can't be removed?"

Answer: Owens Corning does not manufacture cellulose insulation. However, our blowing wool products can be used with existing insulation. For a wall cavity there may be special considerations. I recommend consulting an insulation contractor.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:21 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Tom writes from Hyde Park, Massachusetts: "I want to insulate my attic roof. However, the joists are not 16" on center. They range from 21" to 22". Where can I buy rolls to accommodate this situation?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures insulation that is either 15" or 23" wide. My suggestion is to cut the 23" product, which can be a challenge when working on the ceiling of the attic. I assume your attic is or will be conditioned, meaning heated and or air conditioned. Otherwise, there is no need to insulate the attic roof. For unconditioned attics, insulate the floor above the rooms that are heated and/or conditioned and make sure there is adequate ventilation in the attic.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:18 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Donna writes from Port Jervis, New York: "Recap has just started to blow more insulation into existing exterior walls, my concern is they are drilling the holes and then throwing away the wood blocks and just replacing the siding, when I asked them don't they patch the holes? they said no, the government said they don't have to any more, I live in NY state - does this seem right to you?"

Answer: Unfortunately, I do not have information about local codes. I suggest contacting a housing inspector in your state.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:14 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Howard writes from Agawam, Massachusetts: "I started finishing a bonus room over my garage and want to insulate it the best I can. The room is framed with box trusses 24"oc, the knee walls are only 2" x 4", and the slanted portion between the knee wall and the ceiling has 2" x 6" that I already built out with 2" x 3" for a total cavity depth of 7-7/8". In the slanted portion I was planning to use R 22 6-3/4" kraft faced pink batts which would leave 1-1/8" air space for roof ventilation. I would staple the kraft facing to the interior side of the wall, and then plan to add Foamular rigid foam to the inside of the interior side studs to increase the R-value before attaching the dry wall. So the construction would be Sheet rock/Foamular/Kraft Faced Batts/1" air space/Roof sheathing. I have read conflicting information and want to know if this is a good idea to maximize R-value while not creating a moisture problem by putting the kraft facing up against the Foamular. What is your recommended insulation construction for my application?"

Answer: Good question. Actually, Owens Corning recommends using unfaced insulation in this system. Everything else matches the company's recommendation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:10 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Chris writes from Mount Holly, New Jersey: "I have an old farmhouse that has no exterior insulation. I'm adding insulation everywhere I can as I fix up the house. There is a finished 3rd floor with crawl space storage behind the knee walls. I have kraft faced fiberglass on the crawl space side of the knee walls between the joists (facing on the wall side). Because I am keeping stuff in the crawl space, though, I'd like to reduce the temperature extremes in there as well. The roof has a ridge and soffit vent system, so outside air can come right into the crawl space. I'd like to install FOAMULAR panels on top of the rafters, to maintain the vent system flow between them but keep the air out of the crawl space. Would this work?"

Answer: An answer with all of the possible variables is too much for my furry paws to type. Please call the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss your situation. The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:38 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Debbie writes from Sarasota, Florida: "IS AN R-VALUE OF 49 NECESSARY FOR A HOUSE IN FLORIDA? I HAVE PRACTICALLY NO INSULATION IN MY ATTIC. WHAT DO I NEED TO ACHIEVE THIS?"

Answer: According to the U.S. Department of Energy, an existing home in your Zip Code area needs a minimum R-38 (12" of fiberglass insulation). R-49 is about 15.5 inches of Owens Corning PINK Fiberglas™ batts layered together. The thickest single product the company makes is R-38.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:34 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Dan writes from Redding, Connecticut: "I live in a log home. The house has 2" foam in the roof between the roof shingles and plywood. Not sure if it is vented. The attic floor has just 3/4 inch tongue and groove pine. If I wanted to add more insulation, could I lay foam insulation over the tongue and groove pine floor? Can you step on it if I need to go up there?"

Answer: FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene is a sheathing insulation and is not recommended for use on an attic floor. Your local building code no doubt requires that the foam insulation be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier, such as a flooring material, for fire safety. There are situations where unfaced Fiberglas™ insulation could be used to add R-value but this CANNOT support any foot traffic.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:47 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Mike writes again from Zionsville, Indiana: "Is Fanfold residing board considered a vapor retarder? To increase the R- value even a small amount, can I put Fanfold over fiberglas between rafters in a cathedral ceiling before I put a plastic vapor barrier over everything?"

Answer: Fanfold foam insulation is manufactured as a re-siding board. I really cannot recommend using it as described.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:45 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Martin writes from Denver, Colorado: "My attic has old blown in insulation and you can see the top of almost all the rafters. My house is very cold in winter living in Colorado. I was thinking of purchasing 4x4 or 4x8 sheets of polyiso with osb and laying it over the rafters and taping the seams to help insulate my attic. Is this a proper way to install this kind of insulation? I heard the R-value was very good for this type of insulation. What do you suggest?"

Answer: Owens Corning recommends installing unfaced FIBERGLAS™ insulation perpendicular to the existing blown in material. We do not manufacture the type of insulation you describe in your message.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:48 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Mike writes from Zionsville, Indiana: "I have just removed a flat ceiling and vaulted the room's ceiling to the rafters. I framed a gable wall at each end of the vaulted section (attic on each end). Can I use fanfold on both sides of the gable wall, to protect the kraft-faced insulation, or should I use a house wrap or celotex-type board on the attic side? Also, can I use the fanfold over the thermal layer on the inside of the ceiling?"

Answer: Foamular® extruded polystyrene insulation can be used on the gable end walls of an attic as long as there are no heating elements, furnaces, etc., in the attic. Owens Corning sells fanfold insulation only for use on the exterior of homes under siding. It is not a thermal barrier. We recommend sheet rock for that purpose.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:45 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Russ writes from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: "How do recommend insulating an 18th century frame house in Virginia? The interior surfaces are lath and plaster and will remain in place. The exterior is clap boards over the frames, no sheathing, no wrap. The clap boards will be removed as part of restoration so the outside walls will be open to accept insulation. Do I need to add the sheathing and house wrap?"

Answer: Foamular® extruded polystyrene insulation can be added to the exterior to increase the R-value of the wall assembly. Owens Corning also markets PINKWRAP® housewrap, an optional air barrier. We recommend Kraft-faced Fiberglas™ insulation for inside the wall cavity with the vapor retarder installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the wall.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:47 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Jacquie writes from Sicklerville, New Jersey: "I have a 32-year-old end unit townhouse. All outside walls are cold in winter and warm in summer. We're in bad need of re-insulation & are considering blown-in insulation. How does that work on existing walls?"

Answer: Blown-in or loosefill insulation will work in existing walls but it must be installed carefully to avoid damaging the walls. It is also important to make sure the wall cavity is filled completely and does not contain voids where there is no insulation. For these reasons we don't recommend insulating existing walls with blown-in insulation as a do-it-yourself project. Contact an insulation professional in your area and ask for an assessment of the situation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:41 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Chris writes again from State College, Pennsylvania: "This is a follow-up question to one answered by Pink Panther today - am adding R-30 unfaced OC fiberglass to current cellulose in between joists with R-17 value to achieve close to R-49. Home is heated with radiant electric ceiling heat - my safety concern is with cellulose over which fiberglass will lay. Is there any danger in trapping heat above cellulose AND so near heating element in ceiling (this would be applied in attic)?"

Answer: I don't have any information on how cellulose insulation will perform. Our typical recommendation is to use unfaced fiberglass insulation over any type of existing insulation. Fiberglas™ insulation is non-combustible.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:06 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Bev writes from Crosby, Texas: "Jennifer asked a question on 10-06 regarding insulation under her house. Your reply was to apply unfaced insulation with plywood or netting to keep from housing critters. What type of netting would keep mice from taking up residence in the insulation. We have the same problem with our Texas lake house in winter. Have seen no mice in house, but I know they are out there and I would love this stuff."

Answer: OK, maybe I went too far in suggesting that the netting would keep out critters. My only concern is that whatever is applied will not act as a vapor retarder. Perhaps there is netting made with something that mice do not like to chew. I recommend contacting a professional exterminator.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:02 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Malachy writes from Cortlandt Manor, New York: "I recently read on your website that insulating the rafters of a home is not necessary if there is a insulated floor. What about the side walls. In my home the rafters and the side walls are not insulated. Should I insulate the side walls of the attic?"

Answer: There is no need to insulate the sidewalls of the attic if the attic space is not heated or air conditioned.

Insulation is needed to keep heat from moving from the warm side of a structure to a cold side. In a home, that means keeping heat in the living space during winter and out of the living space during summer. The insulation you have in the floor of the attic is doing just that - stopping the movement of heat between the attic and the living space below. Adding insulation to the walls and rafters would provide no additional benefit.

Ventilation is important in unfinished attics so be sure you have good air flow through the space. For information about how much ventilation is needed, check the Owens Corning Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:33 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Millie writes from Alexandria, Virginia: "Where can I find a professional to install in my area to do the work?"

Answer: Certified Energy Professionals can be found through the Owens Corning Web site based on ZIP Code.

At the home page, select Owens Corning Building Materials and Services. Click on the button labeled Find a Building Professional. Enter your ZIP Code and select the words that describe your project. Another click or so and you will see a list of Certified Energy Professionals in your area.

Click here for a shortcut to the Locator page.

To save you even more time, here is the Certified Energy Professional in your area:  Davenport Insulation
 301-627-1800
 15445 Depot Lane
 Upper Marlboro, MD 20772

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:28 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Don't be surprised if you hear energy-saving Owens Corning insulation products on the radio in the near future. Company representatives were interviewed at the International Builders' Show this week by Money Pit co-hosts Tom Kraeutler and Leslie Segrete.

One of The Money Pit''s messages to viewers: Enhancements to your home should pay attention to the basics, such as making sure you have enough insulation. The first step in doing so is to take a peek in your attic. If you can see the wood beams on the floor, chances are good that you need more insulation.

There are an estimated 60 million American homes that have under-insulated attics and not only face energy costs up to 47 percent higher this winter(1), they're also emitting a half ton more CO2 EVERY year than their properly-insulated neighbors. Released into the atmosphere, that's about an average blimp-full of CO2 emissions being released per block of homes each year.(2)

With the U.S. Department of Energy recommending an average of R-value 49 for attics in many parts of the country, Owens Corning advises that an attic have a minimum of 15-1/2 inches of fiberglass batt insulation or 18 inches of blown insulation. For more information about attic insulation visit the Owens Corning micro-site www.insulateyouratticnow.com.

(1)U.S. Dept of Energy (DOE)

(2)The US could save up to three million blimps full of CO2 emissions (the average blimp holds approximately 200,000 cubic feet of gas) if all under insulated attics in the US were insulated to the DOE standard. Estimated 60 million under-insulated homes in 2006 based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The Public Health Benefits of Insulation Retrofits in Existing Housing in the United States.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News at 12:44 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The International Builders' Show continues through today in Orlando. My blog sponsor is there with energy saving products for the home. Builders and contractors attend the show each year to see what is new in the field of home construction. Owens Corning is there to remind them that proven products are sometimes the best solution for the challenges of today. With more than 65 years of leadership, Owens Corning continues to provide insulation systems to keep homes warm in the winter and cool in the summer. PINK insulation products help keep families comfortable and take the "high" out of energy bills. There is sometimes a knee-jerk reaction to assume that traditional products are not as good a something new. People naturally like new things and all of a sudden they can become 'in vogue' and sexy. Traditional products are assumed by default to be not as innovative or at the cutting edge as the newer products. But buyers need to look deeper. Just because it is new doesn't mean that it's right or the best option available. Fiberglass insulation doesn't absorb moisture or need special chemical treatments to make it fire safe. And typically, old fiberglass insulation does not stop working. In fact, Owens Corning recently tested some Fiberglas ™ insulation that had been in a home more than 50 years and found that it still meets today's performance specifications for the product. And from my perspective, one of the best things about Owens Corning insulation products is the fact that they are PINK.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News at 10:19 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Stacy writes from Beaumont, Texas: "I have heard that there is insulation that can go on top of your disappearing stairway and when you pull down the stairway you just remove it. Where can I go to get some?"

Answer: The product is the Owens Corning PINKCap® Attic Stair Insulator. It is a molded polystyrene (EPS) foam cover for attic stair openings. The product is light weight and easy to install and remove. It is a quick do-it-yourself product, reducing heat loss in the winter and heat gain in the summer. The PINKCap insulator is available in one standard size to fit all attic stairwell openings. The foam material is 2-3/4 inches thick and provides an average R-value of 11 when installed properly.

The product is available in Texas at the Current Energy Store in Dallas and several outlets of The Home Depot throughout the state.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:17 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Chris writes from State College, Pennsylvania: "Have about 6 inches of loose cellulose insulation in attic of 1967 build split level with electric "ceiling heat". Calculator says R-30 (no paper face) fiberglass addition to reach R-49. Is it safe with 'electric ceiling heat'?"

Answer: Yes, using unfaced Fiberglas™ insulation should be fine. The maximum operating temperature of our fiberglass insulation is 250 degrees Fahrenheit.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:11 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

In recognition of the phenomenal growth of green building, the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) will celebrate "Green Day" today at the International Builders' Show in Orlando.

The association will officially launch the NAHB National Green Building Program and unveil the new Certified Green Professional™ educational designation for home builders, remodelers and other industry professionals.

A green building display will allow participants to try out a new online scoring tool which is an important component of the NAHB National Green Building Program. The scoring tool shows how green building techniques and materials will affect a new home and allows builders and consumers to select the measures and materials that are most cost effective and best meet their needs. Builders can also test the tool at www.nahbgreen.org.

Also on the docket: a full day of green educational seminars on topics from market trends and consumer research to innovative design and new products. Information about the 10th annual NAHB National Green Building Conference will also be available. Noted green architect and educator William McDonough is the featured speaker in the morning, and he will also conduct an in-depth session on "Cradle to Cradle" environmentally and ecologically efficient building practices.

NAHB will also introduce the Certified Green Professional designation, a new professional program to provide home buyers with additional assurance that the builder or remodeler they've chosen is authentically "green."

Among the green products on display at IBS is PINK Fiberglas™ insulation, the market leading residential insulation product. Owens Corning insulation products save many times the energy used to make it in the first year alone. And they continue to help conserve energy year after year without consuming any additional resources. The products Owens Corning sells each year are responsible for the prevention of more than 1 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions. (1) This equals the emissions of 200 million passenger cars or the use of 2 billion barrels of oil. Owens Corning was the first insulation manufacturer to qualify for the GREENGUARD Product Emission Standard for Children and Schools - the only independent testing program for low-emitting products. Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation is made of plentiful sand and recycled glass. Its minimum of 35% recycled content is the highest in the industry. Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation products can also assist in attaining points for LEED® Certification. Go Green! Go PINK!

(1)The US could save up to three million blimps full of CO2 emissions (the average blimp holds approximately 200,000 cubic feet of gas) if all under insulated attics in the US were insulated to the DOE standard. Estimated 60 million under-insulated homes in 2006 based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The Public Health Benefits of Insulation Retrofits in Existing Housing in the United States.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News at 08:29 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Bill writes from Lowell, Michigan: "I am building a storage shed and want to insulate the floor. I was thinking of putting down plywood 7/16" and then laying down foam board and then another layer of plywood 7/16". The foam board is 1" thick. Is this a good idea or not?"

Answer: The insulating approach you describe sounds like a good idea if the shed is going to be conditioned (heated or cooled). One additional step that can be taken is to lay sleepers (2 x 4s put down flat, for example) between the FOAMULAR® insulation boards to allow you to attach the final layer of plywood.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:24 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Trent writes from Saskatoon, Saskatchewan: "Can I place a vapour barrier on top of 2.5" wood chip insulation between ceiling joists and then put two layers of R20 on top of it?"

Answer: Yes, but - When insulating on top of existing insulation we recommend the use of unfaced insulation so no vapor retarder will be on top of the original insulation. We also do not recommend adding a separate vapor barrier on top of existing insulation.

With that in mind, the approach you describe should also work because a vapor retarder can be anywhere up to one-third of the total thermal resistance in the assembly starting from the warm side. Two-and-a-half inches of wood chips will provide R 4, at best, and one-third of R-40 is R-12. The vapor retarder can go in as far as R-12 in the assembly you describe, so in this case it is OK.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:21 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

At the International Builders' Show in Orlando today, three Owens Corning products are showing builders how they can differentiate their homes and appeal to today's home buyers. PINK Fiberglas™ insulation is there to show how homes can stand out with energy efficiency and quiet. The other Owens Corning products featured at the show are Duration™ Series shingles with SureNail® technology, and Cultured Stone® manufactured stone veneer. All three Owens Corning products are part of the High Tech Home in the Show Village. The home is designed to deliver fine city living for high-end homeowners. From the latest lighting controls to the most exciting media rooms to the choicest luxury finishes, this house will excite and challenge builders to deliver their best. Other high-tech products in the home include Panasonic ventilation systems, Electrolux premium kitchen appliances and LiteTouch lighting controls.

High-end homeowners also want energy efficiency, of course, and my blog sponsor is there to show builders how fiberglass insulation can be an essential part of a home’s comfort system. While I may be biased, I believe PINK insulation is the best choice for a home. The products are available as Fiberglas™ batts and blowing wool, and FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene foam insulation. PINK insulating products are affordable and readily available. They also pay for themselves quickly by reducing home heating and cooling costs. A typical pound of insulation saves 12 times as much energy in its first year in place as the energy used to produce it. This means the energy consumed during manufacturing is saved during the first 4 to 5 weeks of the product’s use. The insulation continues to save this amount of energy every month throughout the life of the home in which it is installed.

A highlight at the home tomorrow will be a radio broadcast of The Money Pit Home Improvement Radio Show from 9 a.m. to 11a.m. on the front porch. Owens Corning representatives will be interviewed during that time by broadcast personalities and authors Tom Kraeutler and Leslie Segrete. The Money Pit is the nation's largest home improvement radio program and is heard on over 220 radio stations, as well as on XM Satellite Radio. The show will air February 23 through the 27 on radio stations nationwide.

For more about Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation, click here. For more about the Show Village at the International Builders' Show, click here.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News at 08:22 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Mikr writes from Plaistow, New Hampshire: "I just purchased a home. Attic insulation was installed along the roof sheathing to the peak between the roof 2x6"s. There is central air equipment in the attic. There is also insulation between the ceiling joists. Is this correct?"

Answer: If the attic is heated and/or air conditioned, what you describe is OK. There should be a 1" air space between the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation. Insulation between the ceiling joists should help with noise control but will not improve thermal efficiency.

If the attic is not heated or air conditioned the roof deck does not need to be insulated, just the floor of the attic.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:53 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Bill writes from Groton, Massachusetts: "I am planning on finishing my basement and using foamular on the foundation walls first. I was planning on gluing the 2"x4'x8' foamular to the cement with liquid nails, tape the seams with the build-r tape. I am just not sure what to seal the bottom and top of the foamular with. Can I use a latex caulk, silicone, great stuff foam? Once that is done will build traditional 2x4 walls, batt insulate and wall board. Sound reasonable?"

Answer: Any sealer used must be compatible with extruded polystyrene (non-petroleum or asphalt based).We do not recommend installing batts in front of the FOAMULAR® insulation. If FOAMULAR insulation is used in conjunction with batts, the batts should be installed first. Then the FOAMULAR insulation is applied to the studs before the finishing material is applied.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:48 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

The International Builders' Show opens tomorrow in Orlando and my blog sponsor will be there with energy saving products. The company's PINK Fiberglas™ insulation will be part of the Tech Home in the Professional Builder's Show Village, one of three full-size houses built to showcase products in a home environment. Visitors are not likely to miss the home because it features Owens Corning shingles with a large diamond pattern. The entry way is also clad with Owens Corning Cultured Stone® manufactured stone veneer. I'm kind of bummed that the company didn't ask me to be there and help builders understand that Owens Corning makes it easier for them to meet the demands of today's home-buying customers. In a recent survey of registered voters, 90 percent(1) said they will pay up to $5,000 more for a more energy efficient home. No wonder; a properly insulated home can save up to 20 percent(2) on heating and cooling energy bills each year, helping buyers afford more home - or more Pink Panther™ movies.

Last year, the International Builders' Show attracted more than 100,000 attendees during four days of exhibits, seminars and other special presentations. There was 11 miles of aisles through two million square feet of gross exhibit space, enough to cover 35 football fields. More than 1,900 exhibitors displayed their housing products and services. This year's show includes a Green Day for the first time. I'll write more about that Thursday. If you want to check out the show on the Web, click here.

(1)Owens Corning Homeowner Survey 2006

(2)Savings will vary depending on your location and weather conditions. Calculations of energy savings based on a 1700 square foot, single story home, with base case insulation and air leakage levels equivalent to the average home built in 1965. Reference data sources include the U.S. Dept. of Commerce and the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory (LBL) "Energy Savers Program". A summary of the calculation details is available upon request.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy News at 05:46 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Lisa writes from Phoenixville, Pennsylvania: "I have an 1888 3-story Victorian in a cold-climate region. The 3rd story is an A-shape room with a steep pitch a flat ceiling. It is also a heated living area (radiators). There'\'s a closed knee wall area with a little door that I can access and then at the top of the room there's access door that leads up to the tip of the house. In this area it looks like someone blew in a grayish loose material which comes up to the top of the rafters.

My question: Is it possible to lay down insulation perpendicular to the rafters on top of the existing insulation? And if the loose contains no vapor barrier, should i have a vapor barrier and can I place it on top of the loose insulation or would that cause moisture?"

Answer: We recommend adding unfaced insulation (no vapor retarder) in perpendicular alignment you mention. The use of a vapor retarder over existing insulation could lead to moisture problems.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:40 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Bill writes from Adelanto, California: "I have a home built in 1991. It has an attached 3 car garage. The builder drywalled the lid of the garage with 5/8 firecode drywall and left the attic open throughout the floor plan, [garage and living space]. The living areas are well insulated, but with the garage section uninsulated I wonder if I'm wasting energy. Should I consider putting in r38 or is this okay?"

Answer: You do not say whether your garage is heated or cooled but I assume it is not conditioned space. My friends at Owens Corning would love to sell you some insulation but they do not recommend insulating an unconditioned space. Doing so will create a "hot box." When the sun, ambient air and hot car engines heat the garage in the summer, the insulation will cause that heat to be retained longer. On the other hand, if the space is conditioned and the attic is ventilated, you can add insulation to the ceiling and walls.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:37 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Luis writes from Monroeville, Pennsylvania: "How can you make insulators more energy efficient without increasing thickness?"

Answer: OK, here we go. Heat is transferred in three ways: conduction, convection, and radiation. Fiberglass insulation takes an air cavity and reduces the convection transfer of the energy by the air inside that cavity from the hot to the cold side. When we add fiberglass to the cavity we break up the one large air space in to many small airspaces in between the fibers. This makes the convective cells smaller and makes both the convection and radiation paths more difficult.

So how do we increase the resistance to heat flow in the same thickness? One way is to increase the number of fibers to make the convection cells even smaller. This is what happens with the insulation for a 3-1/2 inch wall going from R-13 to R-15. The amount of glass in the wall is increased in the same volume, which increases the density and hence the R-value.

Another way to do this is to remove the air from the cells. This cuts down on the convection that can take place. We see this in vacuum thermos bottles where they draw a vacuum in the thermos bottle walls to keep soup hot or milk cold.

Another way is to add a gas that has a lower density, which reduces the convection in the cells. This is not practical in fiberglass but can be done in foam with a lower density blowing agent.

Sorry about the long answer but it was necessary to answer the question. You must know I don't like to type this much with my furry paws!

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:59 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Richard writes from Wilton, Connecticut: "My home is located in the north east. It has a cantilevered segment that extends approx. 32 inches beyond the foundation. This portion of the house is 14 feet wide and provides part of the space housing a laundry, bathroom and an exterior door.

"I recently removed the plywood that covered the underside of this bump out and discovered that the builder had installed fiberglass insulation with the paper vapor barrier facing down, away from the heated or living space.

"Water lines, waste lines and electrical cables do pass through the house band to this cantilevered structure from a section of the basement that houses the heating system at that location.

"I plan to use a can of expanding foam insulation to create an air seal around all of the openings that allow the passage of heated air from the boiler room out to the underside of the cantilevered structure. I would appreciate some advice as to the insulating material and installation method best suited to this structural configuration."

Answer: Fiberglass is appropriate type of insulation to be used here. However, the paper vapor retarder should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:55 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Gavin writes from the Czech Republic: "I've just bought an old barn with 105 cm thick walls and would like to know if I'll need insulation. The climate in the area is: low humidity, 30+ Celsius in summer, -10 Celsius in winter. Vaulted ceilings on the ground floor; raftered ceiling on the 1st floor."

Answer: If your barn is in the U.S. we would typically recommend R-13 Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation for the exterior walls, and R-38 Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation with Raft-R-Mate® rafter vents in the vaulted or cathedral ceiling if it is under a deck with an asphalt-shingled roof. You should check (pun intended) with your local insulation retailer or building code official to see what is recommended in your location.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:56 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Ovis writes from Manahawkin, New Jersey: "My rolled fiberglass insulation between my floor beams was saturated by moisture due to a ruptured water pipe. Do I have to remove the insulation or will it dry out? I seem to have good ventilation in the crawl space."

Answer: Fiberglass insulation will dry out and retain its R-Value. The concern is whether the insulation was contaminated with dirt in the water. If that is the case there could be mold issues. Fiberglass won't support mold growth but the dirt that got on the insulation along with the water could do so. If the water was clean and you are confident it will dry out quickly you can leave it in place. Otherwise, replace it with new dry insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:53 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

David writes from Kaneohe, Hawaii: "I own a condo in Hawaii that is not insulated. I have to run the A/C constantly to keep it cool. The ceiling is enclosed without any means to access the 24 inches of dead air space between my ceiling and the floor of the unit above me. Can holes be drilled in the ceiling and insulation blown into the dead air space? I have tried to find a contractor in Hawaii that could do this but I have hit a brick wall, no one here blows in insulation. Home Depot doesn't have the equipment to rent to do it as a weekend project. Do you know of anyone in Hawaii that blows in insulation?"

Answer: If there is a unit above your condo you probably won't experience a noticeable thermal benefit from ceiling insulation. Depending on the structure, there may be some acoustic or sound control benefits. If the exterior walls are not insulated, you could expect some thermal benefit if you can insulate them.

You may be doing this already but you should make sure you are following good thermal management practices, such as blocking direct sunlight with curtains, blinds or draperies; turning off unneeded lights; and making sure the doors and windows are closed as the outside air begins to warm up.

Unfortunately, Owens Corning does not have any Certified Energy Professionals serving your Zip code.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:23 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Vanessa writes from Bloomfield, Connecticut: "We bought a house that has a sunroom. It has baseboard forced hot air heat and air conditioning. It doesn't appear to be original to the house - but rather added on without a foundation. We're considering putting in insulation underneath this sunroom's flooring - but how? Any advice?"

Answer: You don't state whether there are joists under the flooring that will provide a cavity for insulation. Assuming there are, we recommend installing Kraft-faced R-25 insulation under the floor with the Kraft paper facing up toward the sunroom. This application may require supports or netting to hold the insulation in place.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 03:19 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)