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March 31, 2008

Question: What type of insulation should we use to re-insulate a four season porch?

Jennifer writes from Milford, Massachusetts: "We moved into this house 1.5 years ago and it has a four season porch located off the living room. The porch is carpeted and has electric baseborad heating but is very cold during the winter. There is a storage space under the porch (not a crawl space) I can stand upright and walk under it. The insulation that is currently in place is falling down. The insulation is being held in with coat hangers currently (nice, right?). I was wondering what type of insulation we should use to re-insulate and also what type of cover we should put over it (plywood, plastic, etc). We don't want animals living in the insulation and want to prevent the drafts from coming thru the floor. We moved to MA from FL and we are clueless when it comes to cold weather stuff. Also, how can we check to see if the walls and ceiling are insulated? I saw on a TV show that you take a hole saw and, well, saw a hole in the wall. Is there any other way to check?"

Answer: We recommend using Kraft-faced R-25 Fiberglas™ batt insulation under the floor. Make sure to install the paper vapor retarder toward the warm-in-winter side of the floor. It may then be covered with any breathable material. Cutting a small whole is a typical method of checking for insulation. Insulation may also be visible from the top of the wall if you have attic access.

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Question: What is the proper way to install insulation around electrical outlets?

Dawn writes from Duluth, Minnesota: "I am insulating my basement with Kraft faced batts, then paneling over that. What is the proper way to install the insulation around the electrical outlets?"

Answer: The best way is to cut the insulation to fit around the electrical boxes. If any knob and tube wiring is present be sure to keep the insulation three inches away. You will recognize knob and tube wiring by the ceramic knobs or tubes that the wire gets attached to, or passes through, at the joists or studs.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:00 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 28, 2008

Question: Can I still get a rebate form?

Johnny writes from Marengo, Indiana: "Back in sept/oct O-C ran a special at the Home Depot in New Albany, In. If you purchased a certain dollar amount of insulation, you got to apply for a rebate by mail. Unfortunately I never got a rebate form. Can I still get one and how do I get it??"

Answer: I suggest you call Owens Corning Customer Service at 1-800-Get Pink™ (1-800-438-7465) to discuss your situation with a representative. They will know if the promotion is still active and, if so, have the forms that are required.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:20 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do you make insulation for joists that are 12" on center?

Don writes from Mechanicsville, Virginia: "My floor joists are 12" on center. Do you make an insulation that will work that I don't have to cut every batt?"

Answer: Unfortunately, Owens Corning does not make an insulation product in that size. It may be time to invest in a good sharp knife. You can find some online that are said to make the job easier. I found several through Google when I searched for "insulation knife."

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March 27, 2008

Question: Do we need to remove the plastic-like vapor retarder or can we just add onto the existing insulation?

Mark writes from York, Pennsylvania: "We are finishing our basement. The builder wrapped the concrete basement walls with insulation that has a plastic-like vapor barrier. We framed out from the insulation so not to compact it. Now we want to add R-13 insulation between the studs, but don't know if we can. Do we need to remove the plastic-like vapor barrier, or can we just add insulation onto the existing?"

Answer: If the plastic-like material is a vapor retarder we do not recommend placing insulation over it. If you want to discuss your situation with someone, call the helpful Owens Corning customer service folks at 1-800-GET-PINK (438 7465).

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Question: Would it be okay to install the extra insulation with the vapor barrier up?

Richard writes from Shepherdsville, Kentucky: "When I built my house years ago, I insulated the attic with R-19 with the vapor barrier toward the living space. I had bought more than I needed at the time and would like to install the extra R-19 batt insulation over top of the existing insulation which comes to the top of the ceiling joists. Would it be okay to install the extra R-19 batt insulation with the vapor barrier up, or should I remove this vapor barrier? If so, it will be a lot of trouble, dusty and messy as it is still stored in the attic."

Answer: We recommend either removing the vapor retarder or freely slashing it with a utility knife.

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March 26, 2008

Question: Can I put plywood over the insulation in the attic to increase storage space?

Chris writes from Aurora, Illinois: "Can I put plywood over the insulation in the attic to increase storage space?"

Answer: It is OK to add plywood or anything breathable to the attic floor as long as the insulation is not compressed. If the insulation is compressed, it will lose some of its insulating value.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:25 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to remove the old insulation?

Kelly writes from Cleveland, Ohio: "I have a 1952 Ranch with a full attic that is about 5' in the center and slopes down in the front and back of the house. I have a middle aisle way that is boarded, but the sides, towards the slopes, are all easily accessible and have, I think, the original insulation. It is so thin and broken down at this point, it can't be providing any good benefits. My question is, do I "have" to remove this old insulation (currently about 2" thick) before I can install new insulation? If yes, what is the safest way to do this? Or should I hire a professional for the removal part of the job?"

Answer: It is not necessary to remove the existing insulation. When adding insulation, we recommend that it be unfaced.

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March 25, 2008

Question: Is there an R-30 roll with a paper backing?

Tony writes from Rochester, New York: "Is there an r30 roll with a paper backing?"

Answer: No, Owens Corning does not manufacture R-30 roll insulation with a Kraft-paper facing. If you are insulating an attic floor it is possible to use R-19 faced insulation in a roll the company does make, and then place an unfaced R-11 insulation product on top of that to reach R-30.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Has Miraflex insulation been discontinued?

Dave writes from Richmond, Virginia: "I had started insulating My Mother-In-Laws attic with Miraflex insulation some years ago, but my plans had been derailed by other projects. Now I have returned to the endeavor, but have not been able to find Miraflex insulation ANYwhere anymore. Has this product been discontinued?"

Answer: Yes. Miraflex insulation was a good product but not enough people bought it to justify continued production. Owens Corning stopped making the product several years ago. The company still makes lots of insulation products and I am confident you will find one to help you finish the job. For a complete lineup of Owens Corning Fiberglas™ insulation products, check the Insulating System section of the company's website.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 24, 2008

Question: Should I install a vapor retarder first?

Dave writes from somewhere in the U.S.: "I have an older home built around 1880. The ceilings below the attic are plaster and lathe. I am putting insulation into the rafters above the plaster lathe ceiling (so the floor of the attic). The rafters are 8 inches deep-15 inches wide. Should I use a vapor barrier first? Or batts with a vapor barrier facing down?"

Answer: If I am correct in understanding that the attic is unfinished and there is no insulation at all, I recommend installing Kraft-faced batts with the paper side down as you suggest. If there is already some insulation in place, use unfaced batt insulation instead.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:48 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I qualify for an "insulated garage space?"

O writes from Sacramento, California: "I have a home built in 1960, with wood siding. I need a new garage door and would like to participate in the Residential Energy program that allows a tax credit for insulated garage doors on an "insulated garage space" attached to the primary residence. My garage is finished (the rafters are exposed) and is not currently insulated. I do not know how much or what type of insulation qualifies as an "insulated garage space". Can I only insulate the rafters? What's the best way to insulate?"

Answer: We don't have details on the tax credit you are asking about so I can't tell you if just insulating the garage ceiling would qualify. You can probably find information online at one of the government's tax websites, such as EnergyStar or IRS.

Faced rolled FIBERGLAS™ insulation is recommended in the garage ceiling, assuming the garage is not heated or air conditioned. Do not put plastic under it as it needs to breathe. Since the garage is not heated we do not recommend insulating the walls.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:42 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 21, 2008

Question: Should I insulate the living room ceiling?

Bob writes from Pawtucket, Rhode Island: "I Have a Living rm on the 1st floor with 9 foot ceilings and a bed rm above on the 2nd floor should i insulate the living room ceiling if so with what type the joist are 2x8"

Answer: You can insulate between the living room and the bedroom above for noise control but insulating between conditioned spaces will not help with thermal control and energy efficiency. For sound control we recommend QuietZone® fiberglass insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:15 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Where can I buy Pink Panther loft insulation?

Steve writes from the U.K.: "Some time ago i began insulating my loft with the pink panther loft insulation. At the time i became side tracked with other matters and now i want to finish the job. I can't find anywhere that stocks the product in the UK. Could you advise on any possible sources, as it's a great product and there's nothing to match it here currently being supplied."

Answer: Thanks for the kind words and I am sorry about your unproductive search. Owens Corning no longer makes or distributes fiberglass insulation in the U.K. Perhaps it will again some day but not now.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:11 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 20, 2008

Question: Can I have insulation blown in by a professional?

Jane writes from Springville, Alabama: "I live in a house that was built in 1895. It has wood plank walls with no insulation. Is there anyway I can have insulation blown in by a professional? And if so, what would something like that cost? I have three large rooms plus foyer maybe a thousand square feet."

Answer: Blown-in or loosefill insulation will work in existing walls but it must be installed carefully to avoid damaging the walls. It is also important to make sure the wall cavity is filled completely and does not contain voids where there is no insulation. For these reasons we don't recommend insulating existing walls with blown-in insulation as a do-it-yourself project. Contact an insulation professional in your area and ask for an assessment of the situation.

Owens Corning Certified Energy Professional® installers can be found through the company's Web site based on ZIP Code.

At the home page, select Owens Corning Building Materials and Services. Click on the button labeled Find a Building Professional. Enter your ZIP Code and select the words that describe your project. Another click or so and you will see a list of Certified Energy Professional installers in your area.

Click here for a shortcut to the Locator page.

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Question: Can I install insulation without adding ventilation?

David writes from Portland, Oregon: "I have a stand alone woodshop that has an uninsulated ceiling. The roof is metal on top of plywood and the joists are open and 2x8. I'm curious what I can add into the bays without having to create air void space and then having to add some kind of ventilation at the rim. Can I just add insulation and not have to worry about ventilation if the insulation is still exposed?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures asphalt shingles. With this type of roof, ventilation is required under the deck. Typically, if insulating under the deck you are insulating a living space and the insulation has a Kraft-paper vapor retarder on it that will face the warm-in-winter side. The vapor retarder must be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier like gypsum wall board.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:46 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 19, 2008

Question: Should I reduce the amount of cold air in the attic?

Eric writes again from Hamburg, New Jersey: "Thanks - porch is not heated and results in a lot of cold air in the attic."

Answer: Actually, cold air in the attic is not a problem if the floor of the attic/ceiling of the living space below is properly insulated. In fact, ventilation is a good thing in the attic for the life of the roof deck and to avoid moisture problems.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:30 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: May I please have a picture about energy?

Maria writes from Hemet, California: "MAY I PLEASE HAVE A PICTURE ABOUT ENERGY?"

Answer: I don't have any pictures of energy but if you go to Google and type in the words "energy picture" you will find lots of sources of pictures about energy.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:27 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 18, 2008

Question: What type of insulation can I use in my garage that will not require installing drywall?

D.J. writes from Pleasant Grove, Alabama: "i have a two-car uninsulated attached garage with heated living space above with hard wood floors. I do not intend to finish the garage, I just want to insulate the ceiling. What type of insulation can I use that would not require me to install drywall? I don’t know how tough this question is, but it is one that I really need an answer to."

Answer: We recommend either Kraft-faced R-19 or R-25 placed in the ceiling of the garage. The paper vapor retarder should be installed up toward the heated living area. The FIBERGLAS™ insulation side is non-combustible and does not need to be covered with drywall. The insulation will need to be supported by nylon banding or metal insulation supports.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:39 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I install Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents?

Dave writes from Utica, New York: "how do you install your product rafter-mate? the job entails going from peak to soffit."

Answer: I should refer you to the packaging or the company's website because this answer is going to wear out my furry paws. But I want to be helpful so here we go: INSTALLATION
Raft-R-Mate attic rafter vents are 22 1/2" wide and 48" in length. They fit between 24"-on-center rafters. They are installed by stapling the flanges and center valley (if using 22 1/2"-on-center product) about every 10" to the underside of the roof deck at the soffit area. Use a moisture-resistant staple. If the rafters are 16" on center the Raft-R-Mate can be separated in the middle to provide two vents that are about 11-1/4" wide. These should be placed in the middle between the rafters. Staple the flanges as stated above.

When installed properly against the underside of the roof deck between the roof rafters, Raft-R-Mate vents will provide in excess of the 1 inch space required by code. Because of its design, the 22 1/2" wide Raft-R-Mate attic vent will maintain a net free ventilation area of 25.5 square inches per rafter cavity (based on 24" on center rafter spacing). Due to the symmetrical design, the product will provide 12.75 square inches of net free ventilation area when cut in half. APPLICATIONS
Owens Corning recommends using moisture resistant staples (MAX 3/8" STAPLES) to attach product to roof deck. Additional Step for Raft-R-Mate vents with Air Stop: Bend down at the accordion hinge. Fit tightly over the top plate and staple to the top plate. CATHEDRAL CEILINGS
When installing insulation in a cathedral ceiling application, it is recommended to maintain minimum 1" airflow between the deck of the roof and the insulation installed to assure positive airflow. Ventilation is required as part of the shingle warranty to cool the deck of the roof in the summer time and to keep the deck of the roof as cold as the outside air in the winter to help avoid ice damming that could damage the shingles.

Install the Raft-R-Mate vents from soffit to ridge in each cavity. For Raft-R-Mate with Air Stop, bend down and staple the insulation block. There should be a gap of 1-1/2" to 2" between each Raft-R-Mate baffle as you proceed up the slope of the rafter to allow excess moisture to get around the vent and into this air flow. Be sure not to have the insulation batt ends start or stop within that 2" gap so it will not force its way through the gap and reduce or stop the airflow. If unfaced insulation is used, a 4 or 6 mil poly should be installed over the interior side of the rafters after the insulation has been installed to provide a strong vapor retarder prior to attaching the drywall or gypsum board.

Whew!

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March 17, 2008

Question: Where can I find the Manufacturer's Certification?

Denise writes from Akron, Ohio: "I insulated my home with owens corning insulation and need to get my tax credit but the IRS says I need a manufacturer certificate. Can you please let me know where to get that or where to go on your website"

Answer: Click on the highlighted words in this sentence to download the Owens Corning Manufacturer's Certification Statement from the company's Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:56 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is Pink Panther insulation flammable?

Todd writes from Moodus, Connecticut: "is pink panther insulation flammable?"

Answer: Pink FIBERGLAS™ insulation is non-combustible. However, there are Kraft paper vapor retarders on some of the company's insulation products. This paper is flammable and must be covered with a 15-minute thermal barrier such as gypsum board.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:53 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What makes your insulation better?

James writes from Cherry Hill, New Jersey: "I'm looking to add some more insulation to my attic (I currently have about 4-6" of blown-in fiberglass) and am looking at the R-30 rolls of insulation at Lowe's. However The Home Depot has CertainTeed Insulation, also R-30, same size roll, for about 40% less than the Pink Panther. What makes your insulation better?"

Answer: First, let me point out that all rolls of insulation are not the same, even if the insulations they contain have the same R-value. Owens Corning is able to compress its insulation more than its competitors so insulation products that appear to be the same may in fact cover different sized areas. Be sure you are comparing apples to apples by comparing the square feet of the insulation in side the package. I must also point out that retailers are free to set prices for the products they sell and may position some at or below their own cost to build store traffic for the other products they sell. As a result, you may occasionally find prices that are different at various stores but generally they are competitive with each other. As to why I believe Owens Corning FIBERGLAS™ insulation is better, let me start with the fact that the company developed the commercial process for making fiberglass home insulation back in the 1930s and has been a leader in the glass fiber business ever since. The company makes quality products that are readily available and widely used to make homes comfortable and energy efficient. When it is installed correctly and not damaged by fire or water exposure or physical displacement, Owens Corning FIBERGLAS™ insulation will deliver its labeled thermal performance for the life of the building in which it is installed. Owens Corning FIBERGLAS insulation is also certified to contain at least 35 percent recycled content, the highest certified level in the industry. That level of recycled content has been confirmed by Scientific Certification Systems (SCS), an independent, third-party organization established to certify environmental achievements. Owens Corning FIBERGLAS insulation is also GREENGUARD Indoor Air Quality Certified®*. GREENGUARD Certification is awarded to products that meet indoor air quality standards set by the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute. Owens Corning was the first insulation manufacturer to qualify for a stringent new GREENGUARD Product Emission Standard for Children and Schools, developed in response to rising concern over illnesses such as asthma and respiratory conditions sometimes associated with poor indoor air quality. Finally, and best of all from my perspective, Owens Corning FIBERGLAS insulation is PINK, my favorite color.

* The GREENGUARD INDOOR AIR QUALITY CERTIFIED Mark is a registered certification mark used under license through the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 05:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 14, 2008

Question: Does this cost qualify for a tax credit?

Ilse writes from Vienna, West Virginia: "I had Foamular 250 (r value 4.5) 3/4" thick installed in the walls of our house. Would this cost qualify for the tax credit under Section 25C of the Internal Revenue Code? If it does qualify, where can I find a certificate stating this?"

Answer: All PINK foam insulation products qualify for the energy tax credit.

Click on the highlighted words in this sentence to download the Owens Corning Manufacturer's Certification Statement from the company's Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a way to install insulation around lighting fixtures?

Paul writes from New London, Connecticut: "I am renovating a kitchen built in 1890. No insulation previously existed. I gutted the room and have installed recessed light fixtures. I am now ready to install my insulation. A tag on the fixture says do not install insulation within 3 inches. What are the alternatives? Should I just leave that area free of insulation?" Answer: You could switch to IC-rated light fixtures which can be in contact with insulation, or build three-inch boxes around the ones you have. IC-rated light fixtures are intended for direct contact with insulation. IC stands for Insulated Contact. An IC-rated fixture must therefore, by definition, be approved for zero clearance insulation cover by an OSHA NRTL laboratory such as Underwriters Laboratory (commonly referred to as UL).

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:45 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I install rigid foam insulation under nail-down flooring?

Michael writes from Carrollton, Texas: "I have pier and beam with 1 inch plywood sub floor. Can I install 3/4 or 1 inch rigid foam under new nail down flooring?"

Answer: Yes, FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene insulation can be used to insulate under this subfloor.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:43 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 13, 2008

Question: Do these products qualify for the Energy Tax Credit?

Brayton writes from Cranberry Twp, Pennsylvania: "Could you please advise if the following products qualify for the Energy Tax Credit?

1) Cathedral Ceiling R-30 16"x48" Kraft Faced - Wood Framing
2) Garage Ceiling R-30 16"x48" Kraft Faced - Wood Framing
3) Exterior Walls R-13 15.25 x 93" Kraft Faced
4) Soffit Ventilation 22x48 Foam Baffles"

Answer: All Fiberglas™ insulation products and insulation accessories qualify for the energy tax credit. For more information about the products that quality, see the Owens Corning Manufacturer's Certification Statement.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:26 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate my garage ceiling?

Karen writes from Binghamton, New York: "My garage is below the master bedroom; the garage does have a heat source but is only minimally heated. The ceilings in the garage are currently not insulated correctly. It has the vapor barrier side facing down into the garage. I am going to take the old insulation down and re-do it. Can I use Foamular insulation on the garage ceiling or is the better choice to use pink rolled insulation with the vapor barrier side up? If I do this, should I put plastic vapor barrier over the insulation once I put it up so as not to have the fiberglass portion of the insulation exposed? If it is ok to use Foamular insulation in this setting, can I also use pink rolled in conjunction with it - for example put Foamular up first, then put pink rolled over it? Also, I was considering applying 2" thick Foamular to the exterior walls of the garage, is that correct?"

Answer: Faced rolled FIBERGLAS™ insulation is recommended in the garage ceiling. Do not put plastic under it as it needs to breathe. Since the garage is not heated we do not recommend insulating the walls.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:23 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How much insulation should I install in my garage ceiling?

Matt writes from Negaunee, Michigan: "I am in the process of insulating my garage. It is an attached garage with no living space above the garage. I basically want to keep the pop from freezing and be able to heat it occasionally to work in the garage. I am debating how much I should install in the ceiling? Thinking 4", I did install the foam vents to the eves to ensure good air flow."

Answer: It really depends on the size of the rafters but R-30 is generally recommended. But please understand that insulation does not produce heat, so when you are not heating the garage your pop may still freeze in the winter.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 06:20 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 12, 2008

Question: Should I be concerned about electrical wiring in contact with insulation?

John writes from Beachwood, Ohio: "Home was built in 1935 and has a "balsam wool blanket" about 1/2 inch thick rolled out across the top of 10" rafters held in place with strips of wood nailed into rafter. In areas the blanket has separated and fallen to the bottom of the ceiling. Electrical wiring runs under the blanket. I am using your new atticat blown in insulation to R49 or 18". I have started to cut the blanket away from the rafters and let it fall to the ceiling (bottom of rafters) before blowing in the atticat. Not sure if this is the proper thing to do? Should I be concerned about the electrical wiring in contact with blanket and atticat insulation?"

Answer: If the wiring is insulated it should be fine. If it is old knob and tube wiring, keep the insulation three inches away from it. You can recognize knob and tube wiring by the ceramic knobs or tubes in which the wire gets attached to, or passes through, at the joists or studs.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:02 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I put the vapor retarder on the ground and seal up the gaps or put it up against the insulation?

Cheryl writes from Fonthill, Ontario: "I am insulating the crawlspace of my sun porch which we have turned into a toy room. The crawlspace is about 2-2.5 ft headspace, the ground is dirt and there are gaps around the perimeter which are not sealed. I know small critters like squirrels, chipmunks, cats & mice run through the space. My question is whether I put the vapor retarder on the ground and seal up the gaps or whether I put the vapor barrier up against the insulation (but do I still have to worry about the critters?)? What is the best solution for keeping the critters out of my insulation but properly insulating the space?"

Answer: If the crawlspace under the porch is enclosed (with concrete blocks for example), the poly should be placed on the dirt and should overlap by 12 inches.

The vapor retarder for the floor should be as close as possible to the floor; painting the underneath of the porch with an oil base paint is sometimes easier.

Insulation should be installed under the floor. You can use fiberglass batts, which are held in place by their friction fit.

To help preventing critter nesting you can use extruded polystyrene rigid foam board insulation. With the foam, you will need to cut pieces to size and hold them in place with caulking that is not petroleum based. Be sure to to put insulation in the spaces between the joists up against the band joist (header).

Gaps around the perimeter should be sealed; low-expansion spray foam can do the trick, especially around service penetrations. Ventilation is critical to avoid moisture built up. A small mechanical fan exhausting to the outside is best.

If the perimeter is simply enclosed with a privacy lattice, seal the underneath of the sun room flooring with a super 6 mil poly, caulking and tape, and insulate with extruded polystyrene rigid foam board to help preventing critter nesting. Extruded polystyrene provides R-5 per inch and you can easily install two inches.

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March 11, 2008

Question: How can I get a Manufacturer's Certification Statement?

Tim writes from Milan, Tennessee: "How can I get a Manufacturer's Certification Statement for having blown fiberglass loosefill insulation in my attic to get tax credit?" Answer: Click on the highlighted words in this sentence to download the Owens Corning Manufacturer's Certification Statement from the company's Web site.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:28 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I add plywood to the beams in order to tack up 19" insulation?

Lucille writes from Acushnet, Massachusetts: "From what I've read I need 19" insulation for where I live. I'm doing the inside roof so I can contain heat in the attic. The problem is my beams range between 8" & 12". Should I add plywood to the beams in order to tack up 19" insulation? I know I have to leave breathing room and this was the only way I could think to do it."

Answer: A total of 19" of insulation would have an R-value of 57. That seems high considering the fact that the U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 in most areas of the country but I applaud you for doing all you can to save energy and reduce your home's emissions. Yes, you would need to furr out the framing to 20" to do this under the roof deck. But you should only do this if the attic is a living area that is heated and/or cooled. If not, put all of the insulation on the attic floor.

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Question: Is there a need to change insulation over time?

Eva writes from Ossining, New York: "Is there a need to change the insulation in a home attic over time? Like 20 years or so? Also, how much insulation should we have for the under the floor area of our home?"

Answer: There should be no need to remove existing fiberglass insulation if it is dry and still enclosing the tiny pockets of air that give it insulating value. For an under-floor application we recommend using R-25 Kraft-faced insulation with the paper vapor retarder up toward the living space. If the existing insulation is in good condition it should not need to be removed. We recommend adding unfaced insulation to any existing attic insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:22 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 10, 2008

Question: Is it good practice to insulate only to the edge of the exterior wall?

Eric writes from Hamburg, New Jersey: "We have two roofs, one on the top floor with roughly a 3' soffit around the entire roof (little box). The lower roof (big box), has some eaves that extend nearly 8' past the exterior walls and cover a porch. When they built the house, insulation was only placed to the edge of the exterior wall, leaving the entire 8' over the porch uninsulated. Is this normal and/or good practice? Should there be some overlap?"

Answer: Standard practice is to insulate enough to cover the outside of the exterior wall of the home. If the porch is heated, the area above the porch should be completely insulated as well.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:22 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Why is foam insulation not recommended for use between studs in the wall?

Frank writes from Gaithersburg, Maryland: "I recently observed a neighbor doing some remodeling in his house. His choice of insulation was Foamular Pink XPS, which he carefully cut and fit between the studs, caulking around the edges for air sealing. He used 2 layers - 2", and 1.5", filling out the 3.5" stud cavity. Doing my math this adds up to an R-Value of 17.5, which is much better than the R-11 one would get with fiberglass. I had never seen this before so I decided to search on the net about this, and all I could find was that it "Is not recommended," but no information on why. Can you comment on using this product in this manner? If it is not recommended, can you explain why?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures FOAMULAR® rigid foam insulation as insulation sheathing. The company also makes FIBERGLAS™ insulation batts that can achieve a R-15 at 3.5 inches, which meets building codes. If the foam product is used as you describe, additional labor is needed that can be avoided with the use of FIBERGLAS batts.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:18 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 07, 2008

Envision your home more energy efficient

If you want help selecting insulation and making your new home more energy efficient, consider visiting a builder who uses Envision software to help buyers understand and select options for their new homes. Envision is an integrated options management solution developed by New Home Technologies, a consortium representing 36 of the nation's largest homebuilders and 13 leading manufacturers - including my blog sponsor Owens Corning - who sell products to builders. The software has already won awards for Best Virtual Design Center and Best Virtual Design Center Implementation. For more about Envision, visit Builder Homesite and New Home Technologies online. To see a list of builders who use the software in their design centers, click here.

Posted by Pink Panther Energy Efficiency Tips , Energy News at 11:30 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use InsulPink® Insulation in my basement?

Deb writes from Naples, Maine: "I would like to use Insulpink on my basement walls. They are stone walls above a dirt floor. How do I attach the Insulpink? Also, my basement is not heated, but my furnace is down there & half of the basement has insulation on the ceiling and half of it doesn't. Should I insulate the part that doesn't? The guy at my local retailer said people usually don't insulate their basements."

Answer: InsulPink® extruded foam basement wall insulation is channeled to be applied with furring strips. It works best when applied to flat, even surfaces. The ceiling of the basement should be insulated whenever there is a heated space above. We recommend using Kraft-faced insulation with the vapor retarder facing up toward the heated living space. The walls of the basement do not need to be insulated since the basement is not a heated living space.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:27 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I take up the plywood, re-insulate and cover again?

John writes from Allison Park, Pennsylvania: "I need additional insulation in my attic however, I like the fact that the center 1/3 of my attic is covered with plywood for storage purposes. Should I only insulate the uncovered areas, or should I take up the plywood, re-insulate and cover again with plywood (compressing the insulation)?"

Answer: For the insulation to perform at its best, insulate under the area where the plywood is as well as the rest of the floor. Compressing insulation will reduce its R-value. Fiber glass insulation works on the principle of trapped air pockets. By compressing fiber glass insulation, you decrease the amount of air trapped in the material.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:23 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

March 06, 2008

Question: Should I stud the walls and use fiberglass insulation between the studs?

Vern writes from Sellersville, Pennsylvania: "I am beginning to finish my basement, before I stud the walls, should I glue foam insulation panels directly to the concrete walls or should I stud the walls and then use fiberglass insulation between the studs?"

Answer: We recommend studding the wall out and insulating with FIBERGLAS™ insulation between the studs. We do not recommend gluing foam insulation to the concrete walls first.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:45 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Would it work to put more blown insulation on top?

Dan writes from Chattanooga, Tennessee: "I have blown-in insulation that looks like it got wet or was damaged by moisture in my attic. It is very compressed but dry. Would it work to just put more blown insulation on top? It wouldn't be much fun to try and remove the old."

Answer: If you have blown-in PINK FIBERGLAS™ insulation made by Owens Corning, it should be fine to blow additional product over the top of the existing insulation.

Posted by Pink Panther Ask the Pink Panther , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:42 PM | | TrackBacks (0)