Save Energy: August 2008 Archives

August 29, 2008

Question: Where can I find your R-25 unfaced 15" wide fiberglass insulation?

Frank writes from Fayetteville, Georgia: "For several years I have been purchasing your R-25 fiberglass insulation (15" wide no vapor barrier) for my attic spaces; however, now I am no longer able to locate this material at any of the Home Depot stores (they carry R-13, R-19, and R-30). I have to use the R-25, because my attic has 2x8 joists and I am flooring it for storage. The R-13, R-19, and R-30 that I can locate is either not thick enough or too thick. Can you tell me someone in my vicinity (i.e. approximately 20 miles) who carries your R-25, unfaced, 15" wide fiberglass insulation that I need. Thanks very much for your help with this - I will probably be on this one project for several more years, because I own a house with very large attic spaces, and I only do this during the winter months."

Answer: Thanks for your interest in energy efficiency and your perseverance in looking for the product you need. My records show that Owens Corning does manufacture unfaced R-25 Fiberglas™ insulation 15" x 26.5' (Item Number A64). However, I do not have information about local dealer inventories. A list of local dealers to contact can be found by clicking here. The insulation you want may be a special order product for some retail stores.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:47 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: If I put sheetrock over the studs won't that do the same thing?

Matt writes again from Worcester, Massachusetts: "If I put the sheetrock over the studs wouldn't that act the same way? There would still be sheetrock protection before the foam or is the gap between the studs a problem?"

Answer: If you use the INSULPINK® basement wall insulation I recommended, the slots are intended for furring strips, not studs, so there won't be a gap between studs. If you put sheetrock over the foam insulation and furring strips, that should do the job. To be sure this is OK in your area I recommend contacting your local Building Inspector or Building Code office. For more about INSULPINK basement wall insulation, click here.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:43 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I put foam board on my basement walls?

Matt writes from Worcester, Massachusetts: "Can I put foam board on my basement walls then stud over them? If I can, what can I use to hold the foam board against the foundation? Can I use tape or liquid nails?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures a FOAMULAR® product designed for application to basement walls with furring strips. It is INSULPINK® basement wall insulation. Any adhesive used needs to be compatible with extruded polystyrene foam insulation, which generally means not petroleum-based adhesives. I don't have a recommendation for framing over the FOAMULAR insulation. Generally it is required to be covered by a finishing material like drywall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:40 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 28, 2008

Question: Are Owens Corning ceiling panels available?

Mike writes from Fort Atkinson, Wisconsin: "Are Owens Corning 'rough hewn' fiberglass ceiling panels available somewhere?"

Answer: Owens Corning does not offer fiberglass ceiling panels either rough hewn or otherwise. Not even PINK! The only ceiling product available from Owens Corning is the QuietZone® SOLSERENE® fabric ceiling system. You can see it on the company's website in the section for QuietZone noise control solutions.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:52 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I add an extra vapor retarder? ?

Joseph writes from Canal Winchester, Ohio: "My family is building a new home in the central Ohio area. The home will have 2x6 wall construction with R19 kraft faced insulation. My question is, in my climate is it in my best interest to add an extra vapor barrier? If so, what should I use? A Visqueen of 4ml or 6ml or some other product? Also, will doing this cause me any other issues in the future such as dry rotting wood from any moisture being trapped in the wall?"

Answer: ? Using Kraft-faced insulation is adequate for residential applications.

It is not necessary to add an additional vapor retarder and the use of double vapor retarders can lead to moisture problems. For a second opinion, check with your local building code office.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:50 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I insulate the ceiling of an attached garage?

John writes from Roy, Utah: "Should attached garage ceiling be insulated? I have an 8 year old home with an attached garage. As I was in the attic I noticed the garage roof was not insulated. There is no knee wall separating the area between the living space & the garage."

Answer: It is only necessary to insulate above the living space, taking care to cover the top of the "exterior" walls below with insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:46 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 15, 2008

Question: Do I need to take any extra precautions even though I am using IC rated recessed housings?

Brian writes from Louisville, Kentucky: "I am installing IC rated recessed lights and have existing Miraflex Owens Corning Insulation. I noticed the outer covering says it is flammable. Do I need to take any extra precautions even though I am using IC rated recessed housings?"

Answer: No. The insulation and the encapsulation can come in contact with IC Rated light fixtures. Insulation should always be placed three inches away from recessed lighting fixtures unless the fixture is marked "IC" (Insulated Ceiling).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:35 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is this still available and in what part of the country?

John writes from Troy, New York: "A while back I purchased OC 1/4" pink fan fold foam. It had no skin on the outsides but had a thin plastic skin down the middle. Is this still available and in what part of the country?"

Answer: Owens Corning makes several types of FOAMULAR® FanFold extruded foam insulation but no longer makes the one that had a thin plastic skin down the middle. Here is a list of the FanFold products currently available from the company:

FanFold - Perforated, with film on one side, crushed and folded hinge, for use when residing.

ProPink® FanFold - Perforated, with reinforced film on both sides, advanced cut, folded hinge, for use when residing.

ProPink® Reflective FanFold - Perforated, with film on inside, and foil-plastic film on outside, for radiant heat reduction, for use when residing.

FanFold DWB - Non-perforated film on both sides; used to protect waterproofing during backfill around foundations.

All of these products are available nationally but you will need to check local building material retailers regarding availability.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:22 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 14, 2008

Question: Should I cut the Kraft paper and add more fiberglass?

Steve writes from South Hadley, Massachusetts: "I live in a ranch in Massachusetts and I am trying to get my suggested R-49 in my attic. Currently there is roughly an inch of rook wool and then R-19 kraft faced fiberglass insulation. The fiberglass was installed with the paper on the wrong side, facing up towards the cold attic. My attic is vented with soffit & gable vents. Should I cut the kraft paper and add more fiberglass? Should I flip the fiberglass over so the kraft paper is facing the warm side? I have heard fiberglass is just an air filter without a good vapor retarder.”

Answer: We recommend that the existing Fiberglas™ insulation be turned over so the vapor retarder is facing the warm-in-winter side. Then additional unfaced insulation can be placed over it. Fiberglas insulation without a vapor retarder is a good insulating product as indicated by the R-values on the packaging.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:40 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a new FHA law that requires insulation behind skirting on manufactured homes?

Tanya writes from Canajoharie, New York: "Is there a new law that FHA has that says you have to have insulation behind trailer skirting in order to purchase home?"

Answer: Not that I know about but I recommend contacting FHA or local building inspector to be sure.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:36 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use faced insulation for this project?

Tom writes from Sidney, Ohio: "I want to add insulation in my attic. Web site recommends using unfaced insulation when adding to exixting insulation. The only unfaced insulation available at local suppliers is R-13, but I want to add R 30. R-30 faced is plentiful at local suppliers. Can I use faced insulation for this project?"

Answer: If faced insulation must be used in this application (adding to existing insulation), we recommend that you take a sharp utility knife and freely slash the vapor retarder (facing) on the new layer of insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:34 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 13, 2008

Question: Should I leave an air space between the insulation and walls to prevent condensation?

Kent writes from Milwaukee, Wisconsin: "I am finishing a small attic space in a 100 year old house - a 6*8 foot gable that comes out from a hip roof. I am trying to figure out how to insulate the knee walls (which are 5 feet high). Someone told me I should leave an air space between the insulation and walls to prevent condensation and dry rot. Or should I fill all six inches with batt insulation on the exposed walls and then cover with a vapor barrier?"

Answer: We recommend leaving a one inch airspace between the insulation and the roof deck to maintain soffit (eave) to ridge (peak) ventilation. We recommend that the insulation be Kraft-faced. This facing has asphalt on the back of it that provides your vapor retarder. If the space is six inches, you should use our 3.5" Kraft-faced R-13 Fiberglas™ batt insulation. The vapor retarder should face the warm-in-winter side of the knee wall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:26 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What R-value should I add?

David writes from Owensboro, Kentucky: "I have a home built in 1945 and it has about 5 to 6 inches if insulation {fiberglass} with paper back applied toward the living space. How thick unfaced insulation and what r value should I add?"

Answer: If you are writing about the insulation in your attic, I am surprised there is that much considering the home's age. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 in most areas of the country including where you live. That's about 15-1/2 inches of Fiberglas™ batt insulation so you need another 10 inches, more or less. I recommend either R-30 (9-1/2 inches) or R-38 (12 inches).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:24 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I install insulation to the ground?

Harrison writes yet again from London, Ontario: "I would rather not remove it, but it sounds like a better idea. I might reinsulate over it, but what do you mean by cut it in several places to reduce its effectiveness. It sounds like this belt of insulation does nothing for insulation, is this correct. Another question: when I insulate the 2x4 stud wall do I install insulation to the ground?”

Answer: I am assuming that the belt of insulation was installed with a vapor retarder. By cutting the vapor retarder you will prevent the creation of a double vapor retarder. Your finished basement insulation should be full height, to the floor, as should the vapor retarder.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:20 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 12, 2008

Question: Should I insulate the interior walls of the basement?

David writes from Tallmadge, Ohio: "I am finishing a basement with poured concrete foundation walls which have been insulated on the earth side with an R5 panel. My contractor tells me insulating the interior walls is not necessary and will not be beneficial. Please provide an opinion on this subject. Also I want to soundproof the ceiling in the basement. Which product is more appropriate -The QuietZone batts or the R13 thermal and acoustical kraft faced batts."

Answer: The answer depends on what you mean by "interior walls." If you are referring to the walls within the basement and not the outside or perimeter walls, insulation will help with noise control but not thermal efficiency. QuietZone® noise control batts will be best for that application.

If you are referring to the inside of the perimeter walls, I recommend that you insulate those walls before finishing the basement. For detailed information about the differences between QuietZone batts and R-13 thermal insulation batts, please call Owens Corning customer service at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:49 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need a flue pipe going into the chimney?

Lauren writes from Cleveland, Ohio: "I'm having a new gas fired hot water boiler put in my house initial estimate came w/ a flue pipe going into the chimney as part of the job they are now saying I don't need that w/ a boiler is this correct? I had 10 estimates that all said this was included. If I insist they put it in should it be done before they complete the install?"

Answer: That’s a good question but not one that I can answer. I do commercials for Owens Corning insulation products but I have never done any for a company that sells boilers so I don’t know anything about them. I suggest you contact the company that makes the boiler you want to have installed.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:46 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to use furring strips to create an air barrier?

Patrick writes from Mosier, Oregon: "New construction. I plan on installing bats in 2x6 construction with OSB sheathing then 1" foamular then lap siding and a board and batten wainscotting. The siding is likely to be cedar or hardiplanking. Do I need to use furring strips to create an air barrier before installing the siding? Are 2x6 bats plus foamular on the outside of the sheathing ok?"

Answer: It is OK to install your exterior finish right against the 1" thick FOAMULAR® insulation. An air space is typically not required unless specified by a local building code. Fiberglas™ and FOAMULAR insulations can be used together provided they are installed properly with an appropriate amount of fiberglass insulation and a vapor retarder on the warm-in-winter side of the wall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:44 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 11, 2008

Question: Do I need to insulate to the floor when I put up walls?

Harrison writes again from London, Ontario: "I live in a condo in between 2 other condos. I am finishing the basement and I want to know this: 2 of my basement walls are insulated as they are exterior walls. The insulation is a belt that stops app. 3.5' from the floor. Do I need to insulate to the floor when I put up my stud walls, or is it best to insulate the whole cavity between the studs from the ceiling to the floor. Do I need to put more insulation at all? "

Answer: The insulation wrapped around 1/2 of the basement wall is something that builders do a lot in Ontario.

When finishing a basement, the insulation and its vapor retarder need to be either removed altogether or "altered" to become part of a full height wall system. In fact, it is much easier to cut the vapor retarder in several places to cancel its effectiveness, and then build a standard stud wall over the top of it. Then new insulation and vapor retarder can be installed without the risk of having a double vapor retarder.

Since this is the exterior wall, make sure you use insulation showing an R-value on it. Acoustical insulation does not have an R-value listed. With 2x4 studs in Canada you can use R-12 or R-14. With 2x6 studs, you can use R-20 or R-22. The Ontario Building Code asks for a minimum of R-12 for basements in your area.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:42 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate a recording studio?

Mike writes from Maywood, New Jersey: "I need to insulate a detached garage. It's been converted to a recording studio. I need a product for thermal and sound deadening in a batt form."

Answer: Owens Corning makes standard Fiberglas™ insulation batts that will help with sound control. They are available at many retail outlets including the Big Box stores. On the commercial product side the company has an extensive lineup of sound control products such as 703 board and SelectSound™ board. To discuss these products in detail, call Owens Corning customer service at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:40 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate my pole barn?

Tom also writes from Cranberry Twp, Pennsylvania: "I need to insulate a 50x50 pole building's roof. [Walls are done] My best bet is to do the bottom cord of the trusses which are on 8' centers. I am hoping to not add any more weight and framing than necessary. What are your recommendations?"

Answer: A typical pole barn is not designed to be insulated. We can provide a couple of recommendations for insulating your pole barn but they are based on the assumption that the building will be conditioned (heated and/or cooled) and maintained like a typical home. If the building is not going to be maintained at a constant temperature with low relative humidity, you will need to consult with a professional for more information on insulating it for its special use.

Option A: Using Residential Batts

If you are going to use standard residential batts, you will need to add additional framing and then cover the insulation with a vapor retarder and whatever finishing material you choose. If the insulation has a Kraft-paper facing, drywall is a recommended cover material.

Option B: Metal Building Insulation

The next option is metal building insulation which is only available from a laminator or metal building contractor. Your pole barn supplier may have a list of contractors you could use to insulate the building. Owens Corning manufactures 6-foot-wide Metal Building Insulation (MBI), which is the widest insulation we make. However, MBI is really designed to be installed before the exterior metal is attached.

The most important thing is that you have a sealed vapor retarder on the interior if the building is going to be heated. Kraft paper is probably not a sufficient vapor retarder in pole barn applications in northern climates. If you do have to retrofit MBI from the interior you will likely have to use some sort of mechanical fastener. These would likely be stick pins attached to the metal, then the insulation would be pushed over them and a cap put on the end to secure it.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:36 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 08, 2008

Question: Can I use an insulated panel with a foil backing?

Sean writes from Hondo, Texas: "I know you have answered a few questions already that are similar. My house is on pier and beams, I going to insulate under my house this spring. I have asked a few people what I should use and they have pretty much said the same thing you have suggested. But my question is, could I use an insulated panel with a foil backing and use the dead air between the panels and the floor as my insulation? Or would I be better off the other way, with no vapor barrier insulation R19, and a vapor barrier to hold it up?"

Answer: Here is what we recommend:

Step 1: ALWAYS install the insulation with the vapor retarder facing the warm-in-winter side of the structure. Owens Corning ONLY recommends poly be installed on the dirt floor of the crawlspace.

Step 2: Insulation should be installed all the way back to the joist so that it touches the band joist. (for narrow spaces, cut the insulation to fit)

Step 3: Insulate carefully around electrical wiring and boxes and all water pipes should be insulated as well. NOTE: Owens Corning does not offer a separate product to insulate around residential pipes.

Step 4: Place insulation around cross braces by cutting it and pushing it around the braces.

Step 5: To support the insulation, use nylon banding or metal insulation supports.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:22 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need a vapor retarder in the garage?

Jim writes from Guelph, Ontario: "We have an attached garage with a flat roof and nothing above the garage. I want to insulate the ceiling and am wondering if I need a vapour barrier as well."

Answer: We recommend using a vapor retarder when separating a heated from an unheated space. The retarder should face the warm-in-winter side. In the situation you describe, if the garage will not be conditioned we do not recommend installing insulation or a vapor retarder. In the summer months this can create a hot-box effect where the room heats up during the day and retains that heat when the outside temperature declines. This trapped heat may then transfer into adjoining areas.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:20 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Does housewrap have to breathe?

Tim writes from Grass Valley, California: "I am planning on residing my house. My current wall configuration is this: Drywall, kraft faced r-13 insulation, tar paper over the studs and then 3/8 inch siding. I want to install a house wrap combo vapor barrier over my existing siding and then reside with cement board siding. Will this cause condensation in the wall? Does a house wrap have to breathe?"

Answer: Owens Corning does market housewrap. PINKWRAP® housewrap is a woven polyolefin fabric engineered to be a weather resistant barrier. PINKWRAP housewrap reduces air infiltration through residential and commercial exterior side wall construction while permitting trapped moisture to escape from the wall to the exterior. As a result, the product is considered to be "breathable." I recommend checking with the manufacturer of the housewrap you describe for additional information about that product.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:18 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 07, 2008

Question: What type of insulation would you use over existing insulation?

Alison writes from Washington, New Jersey: "Our house was built in 2003. We have been told that you want your house to be the last house that still has snow on your roof. If not, then the attic is not insulated enough. We were wondering: what type of insulation would you use over existing insulation? How would you run it? Perpendicular or laying on top in between the rafters?"

Answer: I recommend installing unfaced insulation over the existing insulation. Fill the cavity between the joists first and then run the next layer perpendicular to the first. The U.S. Department of Energy recommends a total of at least R-49 for attics in most parts of the country.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:16 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is it not better for moisture to go up into the home through the floor, than be stuck by the wood joists?

Norm writes from Yorktown, Virginia: "Pros and cons of using faced or unfaced batts in between the floor joist of my soon to be sheetrocked garage apartment? Ceiling of garage will be rocked, apt is heated and cooled, garage is not. Williamsburg, Virginia. What about low crawls? Is it not better for the moisture to go up into the home through the floor, than stuck by the wood joists?"

Answer: We recommend using a vapor retarder when separating a heated from an unheated space. The retarder should face the warm-in-winter side. Improper use of vapor retarders may cause moisture and condensation issues. As for the crawlspace, we recommend placing a 4-6 mil poly on the dirt floor of the crawlspace to control moisture.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:59 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What type of insulation is best between a drop ceiling and flat roof?

Rick writes from Tampa, Florida: "I have a 16 x 20 room that is covered by a flat roof. This room stays about 5 degrees warmer than the rest of the house. It has a drop ceiling which I could easily remove for access to install insulation. What type of insulation would be best to install between a drop ceiling and flat roof?"

Answer: I suggest filling the cavity space above the ceiling. Given your location in Tampa and concern about heat, a vapor retarder is not needed. No matter the climate, an air barrier should be installed over the insulation. An air barrier is anything that will stop air movement. Housewrap, drywall, foam board and plastic are all air barriers.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:55 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 06, 2008

Question: How should I insulate the floor over a garage?

Adam writes from Lugoff, South Carolina: "I am going to finish out an unfinished room over garage and I have a question about insulating the floor. There is a large hole in one corner of the room that allows the NG hot water heater vent to go to the roof, and from looking in that hole I have found that there is no insulation in the floor. The subfloor is already down and the garage ceiling is drywalled. I would like to avoid ripping up the subfloor if at all possible because there is framing for the knee walls attached to the subfloor as well as some temporary supports for the roof ridge. What would be the best way to insulate the floor so that all the heat from the garage doesn't make the FROG unbearably hot?"

Answer: This is a difficult question to answer with e-mail. I suggest contacting an insulation contractor for recommendations. Unfortunately, Owens Corning currently does not have a Certified Energy Professional® installer in your area. You may want to check your local Yellow Pages for "Insulation Contractors" or ask your local home improvement store for a list of local installers.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:19 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I install rigid insulation on top of the existing floor?

Lucy writes from Massapequa, New York: "I just purchased a house that was built over 90 years ago. There is no insulation in the crawlspace currently - and there is very limited access - under 2 ft. I would like to add to insulation some other way to the floor. My question is can I install a rigid insulation on top of the existing floor (which is pine planking) - and then cover it with 5/8 OSB and then my final finish layer? The height needed to do this would not be a problem. If this would work, do I need to install a moisture barrier between any of the layers? Any recommendations would be appreciated."

Answer: Yes, you can add the foam as indicated in your message. No, you don't need to add an additional vapor barrier.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:17 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I insulate a boathouse?

Dave writes from De Tour Village, Michigan: "How do I insulate the heated/cooled floor and walls of a boathouse? The floor is constructed of wood trusses located twenty-four inches o.c. and the knee wall is constructed of 2x6 24in o.c. Also, should I consider any other sound proofing?"

Answer: I don't have specific recommendations for insulating a boathouse but my standard recommendation for underfloor insulation is Kraft-faced R-25. Kraft-faced R-13 is my recommendation for a standard knee wall. The Kraft paper should face the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:13 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 05, 2008

Question: Where should I place the vapor retarder if I live in a very humid climate?

Jindy writes again from Houston: "Thanks for the response. I saw that in other sections that in more humid climates the vapor retarder should be placed opposite the conditioned side of the insulation as to prevent molding of the paper."

Answer: The idea is to keep moisture out of the Fiberglas™ insulation. In some humid climates that means the paper should face toward the outside. I recommend checking your local building code to be sure.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:50 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is it correct for the facing to be toward the ground?

Jindy writes from Houston, Texas: "I've just purchased a house in Houston. The builder used Kraft faced insulation under the pier and beam floors. The facing is out toward ground. Is this correct?"
Answer: Owens Corning recommends that the paper vapor retarder be placed toward the warm-in-winter side of the framing.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:48 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I get R19 in a 2X4 cavity?

Rodney writes from Pelican Rapids, Minnesota: "How can I get R19 in a 2X4 (actual dimension) cavity without furring out the studs to 2X6 dimensions?"
Answer: Unfortunately, what you want to do is not possible with fiberglass insulation. The most R-value you can install in a 2x4 cavity is R-15 using high density Fiberglas™ insulation? You will need to check with your local retailer regarding the availability of that product. To achieve R-19, you will need to enlarge the cavity.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:45 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 04, 2008

Question: What is the Noise Reduction Coefficient (NRC) of QuietZone® batts?

Brian writes from Maryville, Tennessee: "What is the NRC (Noise Reduction Coeffeciant) in your R-11 Quiet Zone Batt?"
Answer: The short answer is 1.
A longer and more comprehensive answer includes the following information: QuietZone® insulation is for interior walls where the temperature is generally the same on both sides. The wall therefore does not require R-values so the company does not test or label QuietZone insulation for R-value. If R-value is needed or required, you should use a thermal insulation product.
NRC is a value that represents the amount of sound absorbed prior to the sound returning from a surface. In order for this value to be accurate, the insulation has to be exposed, meaning no drywall on one side. NRC is a single-product value and has absolutely nothing to do with the effectiveness of a wall assembly in keeping noise from traveling through it. Once the drywall is installed over the insulation, the number is meaningless.
Light density Fiberglas™ insulation batts that are 3.5 inches thick have an NRC of 1.05 when mounted next to drywall, or 1.00 when mounted 40mm away from drywall. NRCs over 1.00 are created by refraction and absorption of that refraction within a test. In reality, you cannot absorb more than 100 percent, but the measure of effectiveness of a material can be relevant over 100 percent.
Clicking on the highlighted words in this sentence will take you to the Owens Corning Web page presenting QuietZone® noise control solutions for the home. The products in this section are specifically designed for noise control. You will need to check with local building materials retailers for availability.
If you have additional questions please contact Owens Corning customer service at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:31 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do you recommend baffles for all roof ventilation systems?

David writes from Wexford, Pennsylvania: "Do you recommend installing baffles for all roof ventilation systems, regardless of whether or not there are soffit vents?"
Answer: No. Owens Corning Raft-R-Mate® attic rafter vents are intended for maintaining air flow from soffit to ridge.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:29 AM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

August 01, 2008

Question: Is there a solution to my problem?

Bill writes from California, Maryland: "I recently finished the second floor of my Cape Cod style house. I used the rafter mate product and R-25 along the roof trusses extending the insulation from the soffit into the attic. The floors (ceiling of the first floor) were already insulated between the joists. The problem I'm having is that the hardwood floors near the outside walls are very cold. I'm afraid somehow outside air is entering this space and traveling along the cavity between the second floor and the top of the insulation. I did not insulate the vertical knee walls as I thought by insulating the roof and floor it would create a sufficient barrier. Also with the plumbing located in that area, I wanted to insure they would not freeze. Is there a solution to my problem? I will be replacing the siding and soffit later this spring if that will provide access to the problem area."
Answer: The idea behind insulating is to wrap the heated living space with a blanket of insulation. I believe that not having the knee walls insulated is leading to heat loss. In addition, R-25 is lower than the recommended R-49 for an attic in your Zip Code area.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:24 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is this product dangerous in a fire?

Terry writes again from Midlothian, Virginia: "Is this product (FOAMULAR® insulation) dangerous in a fire? I've heard it can release toxic chemicals when ignited."
Answer: Even the most basic materials release large quantities of carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide when burned. Both are toxic. Based on combustion toxicity testing, extruded polystyrene foam insulation board is no more toxic than wood when it burns. That does not mean the smoke is safe to breathe because the smoke from any burning construction material, finish material, furniture, etc., is not good to breathe. That situation in combination with oxygen depletion in an active fire may become a potentially lethal environment.
It is also important to know that most building codes require all foam plastic insulation to be installed behind a gypsum board thermal barrier rated for 15 minutes against fire penetration. The assumption here is in the event of an interior fire the building has been exited in 15 minutes. During that time the thermal barrier separates foam plastics such as the FOAMULAR insulation from the room fire and inhibits combustion.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:21 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should we insulate the attic ceiling?

Stephan writes from Tucson, Arizona: "My friend is building a strawbale house. The architect specified insulation between the roof rafters as well as on top of the ceiling. The attic space is vented at the soffits and ridge and gables. My intuition tells me that only the ceiling should be insulated since the attic is vented. The house is in a hot summer/ semi-cold winter climate (central California). Any ideas on this?"
Answer: I am not an expert on straw bale homes but your understanding is correct about ventilated attics in typical homes not being insulated above the floor joists. The general idea with insulation is to wrap the conditioned living space with a blanket that will slow the movement of heat - to the outside in winter and to the inside in summer.
Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:18 PM | Permalink | TrackBacks (0)

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