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September 30, 2008

Question: What is this procedure called and is it effective?

Michelle writes from Spruce Grove, Alberta: "I recently witnessed a house having insulation added to the outside and being recovered. What is this procedure called and is it effective?"

Answer: Adding exterior insulating sheathing is an effective way to "warm up" your exterior walls. The foam sheathing helps keep the overall wall warmer in winter because thermal bridging (where the heat bypasses the wall cavity insulation and travels out through the wood or metal studs) is cancelled. It is also a recommended insulation practice in provincial building codes across Canada for energy efficiency. Look for provincial and federal renovation grants for adding insulation at www.ecoaction.gc.ca/homes.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:55 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to add more vents?

James writes from Macomb, Michigan: "I recently installed R30 insulation (with-out vapor barrier) to my attic, which already had 6 or 7 inches of insulation (with the vapor barrier). I believe my attic is sufficiently ventilated, but I've now noticed a black mold that is on the outside overhang of the house. What could be causing this? Is there too much insulation now or do I need to add more vents?"

Answer: R-49 is a common value recommended by the Department of Energy so it is not likely that there is "too" much insulation. It is more likely that you will find the ventilation needs to be improved. The minimum ratio is 1/300, meaning one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space when you have the proper balance of ridge and soffit/eave vents. We recommend a ratio of 1/150. There is additional information on the Owens Corning website about ventilation.

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Question: What is the best thing to do?

Kurt writes from Chicago, Illinois: "I've gotten different opinions and I'm not sure which is correct. We have a kitchen where the previous owners opened the back porch to be part of the kitchen as one big space. We are redoing this area. The roof over the back porch is sloped with 30" center to center 2x4's for supports. We cannot lower the studs without loosing valuable living space. This small part of roof (not connected to the main roof) is unvented. We will be hanging new drywall for the ceiling. We were told we could hang regular fiberglass insulation with a vapor barrier directly to the ceiling with no air space, seal everything tight, and that this should be no problem. We were also told we could hang rigid foam panels between the joists leaving a small airspace and then cover that with a vapor barrier to form a thermal envelope. What is the best thing to do?"

Answer: Our recommendations are based on using an asphalt shingle-style residential roof and for that we recommend Fiberglas™ insulation with an air space of at least one inch below the roof deck. We do not recommend using FOAMULAR® insulation between framing members.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 29, 2008

Question: Is Kraft paper better in my situation?

Jim writes from Dearborn, Michigan: "I'm building a cottage in Northern Michigan. I want to insulate the ceiling with r 38. I have roof trusses in my construction. Half of the roof is vaulted and half is attic truss. I will finish the ceiling with T&G 3/4" pine. I want to put an inner face between the trusses and the T&G pine, like foam board or OSB. My preference is the OSB to better secure the nails. Question: Is the Kraft paper better in one or the other of these scenarios? Or should I go without the paper?"

Answer: We recommend using (paper) faced insulation. However, if the roof has adequate ventilation, i.e. one square foot of net free ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic floor space, the paper may be omitted. The paper has a vapor retarder on it that should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the framing.

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Question: Should I use faced insulation and install it normally?

Bob writes from Hoodsport, Washington: "I built a 16' by 10' shed, for storage and to place a washer and dryer. I would like to insulate it. Due to it being a shed, I wanted to keep the cost down, so it only has T1'11 siding over the frame, so no house-wrap was used. Should I use faced insulation and install it normally, then place plastic over it as a vapor-barrier (I'm going to sheet rock it), or ??? If I am correct on this, is there something that I can apply to the inside of the siding to help keep the moisture down? I live in WA where it rains often." Answer: Are you planning to heat or air-condition the shed? If so insulating is a great idea. If not, insulating is not necessary and may make it less comfortable in the evenings during summer months when heat won't dissipate as quickly. Unfortunately I don't have a recommendation for retrofitting housewrap under the siding, or anything to recommend for keeping out moisture.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is there a way to insulate my attic without ripping out the drywall and plaster?

Mike writes from Louisville, Kentucky: "Finished attic with no insulation. I have a finished attic (done years before I moved in) in a 1925 construction home. The attic is completely uninsulated. An insulating contractor recommended two options: tearing out all the drywall/plaster; or doing nothing at all. He also mentioned I could gain some benefit by sealing any gaps in the sill (where the house meets the foundation) in the basement. Is there any solution to insulate my attic without having to rip out all of the drywall/plaster? Access is limited to areas between drywall and roof, some knee walls but not everywhere."

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures loose-fill Fiberglas™ insulation and it may be a good solution for insulating your attic. In Northern Kentucky the company offers a product called PROPINK® Unbonded Loosefill. Advanced Therma Cube Plus® insulation is offered in the Southern tip of Kentucky. There are also products your contractor can blow in the walls using special machines.

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September 26, 2008

Question: Is it OK to add rigid foil-faced insulation?

Britt writes from Salt Lake City, Utah: "My 1896 1-1/2 story home has bedrooms built into the attic area. The rafters are 2x4 and have minimal insulation. I am re roofing and am considering adding rigid foil faced 2" insulation with a 1" airspace under the sheathing and a ridge vent. Any suggestions?"

Answer: It sounds like you have everything covered. My guess is that you already have soffit vents to provide intake for the new ridge vent. Correct?

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:23 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I cover the joists with a vapor retarder?

Dave writes again from Feeding Hills, Massachusetts: "Thanks for your response. After the r-25 should I cover the bottom of the joists with plastic or some other material as a vapor barrier? I was thinking about 3/8" pressure treated plywood?????"

Answer: The vapor retarder should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the floor, which in your climate means up against the sub floor above. Nylon banding or metal insulation supports should be enough support for the insulation but if you want to cover it all with plywood that should be OK but I recommend drilling some holes so it can breathe.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:19 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is the best way to insulate a home on piers?

Dave writes from Feeding Hills, Massachusetts: "I am building a three season room on piers in New England about two feet off the dirt ground. Could you please tell me the best way to insulate with a vapor barrier? The deck is 3/4" avantech."

Answer: This would be an underfloor application. We recommend that the stud cavities be insulated with Kraft-faced R-25 insulation. The vapor retarder should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the framing. Now the insulation needs to be supported. This is typically done with nylon banding or metal insulation supports. Given the distance from the ground, this may be more difficult than a standard application.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:15 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 25, 2008

Question: Can I use rigid foam board on the ceiling?

Jerry writes from Spokane, Washington: "My living room has a section with only about 3" of blown-in cellulose insulation in the ceiling below a sloped roof. It seems as if all my heat from the gas fireplace is going out the roof. Can I use rigid foam board on the ceiling, then cover with sheetrock, lowering the ceiling but increasing my R value? How would I apply it? Any other suggestions?"

Answer: Interesting proposal. This is not something I am familiar with but it could work. I have concerns about ventilation and vapor retarders. Perhaps it would be best discussed this with one of the nice people at the Owens Corning customer service department. The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

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Question: Will insulating the basement ceiling keep cool air from moving down?

Jason writes from Trussville, Alabama: "I have a question about insulating the floor above my basement. The level above my basement is approximately 2800 sq ft. The basement below has 14 ft. ceilings, 1ft thick concrete walls and it almost completely underground (obviously with the exception of the doors on 1 side). My heating bills during the winter have been pretty good, however, I live in Alabama and I am concerned that my A/C bill will be extremely high (this is my first year in the house). The basement below maintains a stable temp all year long. My question is, will insulating the basement ceiling have any significant effect on keeping cool air from moving down to the basement? Would it be worth it given the fact that I am pleased with the temperature conditions during the winter?"

Answer: The purpose of insulation is to slow the movement of heat. Insulating the ceiling of the basement will reduce the transfer of heat into the basement in the winter time (assuming the basement is not heated), and the movement of heat up from the basement in the summer. So this may make the basement cooler in the winter and warmer in the summer. It should help you keep the conditioned air in the living space upstairs during the summer but by itself will not make the space cooler. Also, keep in mind there may be other contributing factors.

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Question: Is there a foam insulation we can put inside?

Darcy writes from Grygla, Minnesota: "House is 24 by 40 on cement slab, 20 yrs old. We have added more vents in the roof and one foot of blown-in insulation in the attic. We still have frost inside the north side of the roof, which drips down onto the ceiling as soon as it thaws. Also, there's water coming down the N and E walls, and water on the floor close to those walls in the winter. The walls are; siding, housewrap, foam sheets, plywood siding, 2x4's, 3 1/2" fiberglass insulation, plastic moisture barrier, sheetrock. Is there a sheet foam insulation that we could put on the ceiling inside the house so that the heat doesn't reach the attic? We have ten' ceilings."

Answer: To meet ventilation standards we recommend one square foot of net free attic ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic floor when a vapor retarder is installed. If a vapor retarder is not used, we recommend the ventilation be doubled, meaning one square foot of net free ventilation for every 150 square feet of attic floor. We don't have a recommendation related to installing FOAMULAR® insulation under blown-in insulation. I strongly suggest asking a contractor to take a look at the placement of your ventilation and to address your condensation issues.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:46 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 24, 2008

Question: How can we get to R-49 with batt insulation?

Muriel writes from Marlborough, Massachusetts: "I have two related questions. First, we just bought a house and discovered that we have R-19 insulation in the attic. We need R-49, according to your site. How do we achieve this using batts? (It was easy to tell the current R-value, since you have it printed it on the kraft paper.) Second, the home came with one of your insulating caps for the pull-down attic stairs, but as I understand it, the R-value is only ~R-11. Is there a way to increase it, such as laying R-19 (or higher) on top of the cap (or better yet gluing it to the cap)? It seems silly to insulate the attic to R-49, then have this 2'x4' "hole" that is only at R-11 - sort of like replacing all the windows in your home except one!"

Answer: To increase the R-value of the existing R-19 simply place unfaced R 30.insulation on top of the existing insulation. We recommend that the second layer run perpendicular to the first if the first layer fills the floor joist cavity. The attic stair insulator is called PINK Cap® attic stair insulator. I don't have any recommendations on how to increase its R-value but what you are thinking about could work. If you decide to use an adhesive of some type, keep in mind that you should not use petroleum-based adhesives with foam insulating products.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:34 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will R-19 plus foam be enough for Atlanta?

Jimmy writes from Monroe, Georgia: "I AM ENCLOSING AN ELEVATED PATIO INTO A YEAR ROUND SUN ROOM. I WILL HAVE A CATHERDERAL CEILING. THE EXISTING ROOF HAS 2X6 RAFTERS AND I INTEND TO ADD 2X2'S TO THE BOTTOM OF THE RAFTER FOR INSULLATION PURPOSES. IF I INSTALL 6.5 INCH BATTS FOR R-19 AND INSTALL 1 INCH POLYSTRENE BOARD UNDER THE SHEETROCK; WILL THIS BE ADEQUATE FOR THE ATLANTA AREA? CAN YOU GIVE ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS?"

Answer: Combining a 6-1/4 inch Fiberglas™ Insulation batt with a 1 inch FOAMULAR® insulation board will provide an R-value of 24. The standard recommendation for your area is R-38. Owens Corning does manufacture a high density Fiberglas batt insulation that will give you an extra two points of R-value. It is simply referred to as High Density Wall R-21.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I ventilate a loft/storage area?

David writes from Crestline, California: "I live at an elevation of 5,200' in the mountains of So. California. One half of my house has open beams ceilings. The other half has 8' ceilings and an attic. Last year on the wall in the open beam section I installed a double vent grate that leads into the attic section and a thermostatically controlled "whole house" fan at the opposite gable end of the attic. In the summer this has reduced the temps in the house by an average of 10 degrees. Great! This year I am remodeling the 8' wall section of the house and have removed all the 48 year old thin, cheap paneling, ceiling panels and old insulation. I am drywalling and insulating the ceilings and walls, including insulating the wall on the gable end of the attic. I then plan on enclosing a small portion of the attic for a sleeping loft/storage area (floor/walls/rafters). The remainder of the attic will be still open to the vent grate and fan. What would you recommend as far as ventilation for the loft/storage area? It will only be accessed by a ceiling door/ladder and be completely enclosed. Should I add vent grates to the ceiling door and walls to allow the attic fan to draw air through the "room"? A skylight vent? Or?

Answer: Thanks for taking the time to explain the situation in detail but even having read your message several times I am still unclear about the ventilation needs of your proposed new space. I know a little about basic attic ventilation requirements but your situation seems to be unique. And given that my knowledge is all from insulation commercials, not ventilation commercials, I'm afraid I can't help you with this. Sorry about that.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:27 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 23, 2008

Question: How much insulation do I need for the walls?

Sheree writes from McKinney, Texas: "I'm restoring a home that was built in 1895. I already plan to blow-in insulation in the attic with your AttiCat PINK Fiberglas insulation, but would also like to blow-in the insulation into the walls. The walls are 12' high and have 2x4s, set every 16". Please help me determine how to calculate the square footage that one bag of insulation will cover when blowing into walls."

Answer: Blown-in insulation will work in existing walls but it must be installed carefully to avoid damaging the walls. It is also important to make sure the wall cavity is filled completely and does not contain voids where there is no insulation. For these reasons we don't recommend insulating existing walls with blown-in insulation as a do-it-yourself project, and we don't recommend using the AttiCat® machine to fill enclosed wall cavities. Contact an insulation professional in your area and ask for an assessment of the situation.

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Question: Will FOAMULAR® insulation compress?

Scott writes from Point Roberts, Washington: "I am renovating the exterior of my house by the ocean in WA State. From my stud walls, I plan to add 3/8" or 1/2"CDX for strength, followed by 1"Foamular (with seams taped), and then nail 4x8 sheets of Hardi board over the Foamular. Obviously, my nails need to reach the studs, but will the Foamular experience any "compression" or other bad effects from the hardi installation that would result in an uneven finished exterior wall? Any moisture considerations to think about?"

Answer: FOAMULAR® insulation is commonly used for this type of application and compressive strength is one of the important performance characteristics of extruded polystyrene foam insulation. You may experience minimal compression around fasteners if they are over driven. We offer FOAMULAR insulation in different compressive strengths (psi). Standard products are FOAMULAR 150 and FOAMULAR 250 with 15 and 25 pound per square inch compressive strengths, respectively.

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Question: Can I use foam board on the inside of a wall?

Ken writes from Salem, Oregon: "I would like to use a 1/2" foam board over a 2X6 exterior wall. It would be placed over faced r-21 insulation, (facing toward interior) screwed to studs, then covered with 5/8" sheetrock. I want to use this as a shim more then anything else. I could just use two layers of sheetrock instead but appreciate the lighter weight of the foam and the slight insulating value it would add. Would this be acceptable, and if so should I use unfaced foam board?"

Answer: It is a good idea to use FOAMULAR® insulation in conjunction with Fiberglas™ insulation for added R-value. However, unfaced Fiberglas insulation is commonly used in this application. The foam that Owens Corning manufactures is not considered "faced." There is a product with a film skin but it is for exterior applications only. I recommend purchasing a product like FOAMULAR 150 insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:44 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 22, 2008

Question: Can I use 2" foam board with a greenhouse?

Rob writes from South Hadley, Massachusetts: "I am building a greenhouse (50' x 25') with no foundation. I would like to insulate around the GH with Foamular insulation and have contacted Corning regarding this use, basically trenching and burying the sheets in the ground. The reply was that the product is fine for that purpose, but they recommended not going over 1" thick (R5). Is there an issue with using the 2" board? Not sure why they recommend not exceeding 1". I have not received a reply to my follow up so I thought I'd try here."

Answer: Owens Corning doesn't have any information about insulating a greenhouse but the company makes the 1-inch recommendation for standard residential applications. The reasoning for this has to do with the use of vapor retarders in residential exterior walls. This may not be a concern in your application. In winter heating climates it is necessary to use vapor retarders in exterior walls when insulating the stud cavity with fiberglass insulation. The paper facing on the insulation is lined with asphalt to act as the retarder. It is commonly installed toward the warm in winter side, which in most cases is the interior. The purpose is to keep interior moisture out of the fiberglass insulation. However, some moisture may pass through. This moisture needs to be allowed to escape. At 2 inches the foam insulation may slow that escape. Again, this may not be an issue in your application.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:13 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I remove the old insulation or put new on top?

Jim writes from Orlando, Florida: "I live in Orlando, Fl. The current rolled insulation is practically non-existent. It has a thickness of about 1 inch. It was also installed with the kraft paper facing the attic space (non-heated side in winter). I read somewhere in humid conditions that is okay. Which would work best, to completely remove the old, decrepit insulation or just put the new in on top? And if I remove the old should I get the kind with a vapor barrier? Also, all the soffit vents in my attic have been completely closed off. The only ventilation comes from two gable vents and a solar powered fan in the center of the roof. How much of the existing wood needs to be removed to allow adequate air flow through the attic from the soffits?"

Answer: I don't recommend removing the existing insulation. It is usually better to leave it in place to avoid the work and mess of removal, keep the old insulation out of the landfill and take advantage of whatever R-value it is able to contribute. Rolling the new insulation on top of the existing insulation is fine; fill the cavity between the joists first and then run the next layer perpendicular to the first.

Check with your local building code regarding the placement of the vapor retarder. If it should be down toward the warm-in-winter side, there is so little insulation in place now that it should be OK to place new insulation on top without turning the existing insulation over.

The first layer you add should be unfaced and fill the cavity between the joists. Once the joist cavity is full you can run more insulation perpendicular to the direction of the joists. Your target total is R-49 if you have electric heating and cooling, and R-38 if you use gas, oil or a heat pump. Those are the amounts recommended by the U.S. Department of Energy for Orlando. R-49 is about 15-1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation.

Attic ventilation is an important factor in reducing heat buildup in the attic. For an unconditioned attic, air should be able to move freely through the space from the soffit to the ridge of the roof.

There is information on the Owens Corning website about ventilation. The minimum ratio is 1/300, meaning one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space when you have the proper balance of ridge and soffit/eave vents. We recommend a ratio of 1/150.

For a balanced system, ventilation should be equal at the under-eave and ridge. In cases where a balanced system cannot be achieved, always provide more than 50 percent of the total required ventilation at the under-eave and the remainder at the upper portion of the roof.

All openings greater than 1/8 inch must be screened to prevent insect penetration and louvered to protect against the entrance of rain and snow.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:08 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need a vapor barrier?

Andy writes from Kanata, Ontario: "I have a 40 year old cottage with a cathedral ceiling over a bedroom. The rafters are 2x8 and are currently insulated with fiberglass pink. At present the ceiling is covered with ceiling tiles stapled to strapping. There is no vapor barrier. It is a cottage in Canada (Ontario)used for 3 seasons only. I am putting up drywall on the ceiling. Do I need a vapor barrier?"

Answer: I recommend adding a vapor retarder before you install the drywall on the ceiling. In many cases renovations are later made to "winterize" the cottage and use it all year round, with heating. If and when that happens, the vapor retarder will be needed.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:04 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 19, 2008

Question: How should I insulate my 150-year-old home?

Linda writes from Lowville, New York: "Help for 150 yr old brick home for insulating."

Answer: That's a tough question to answer without knowing more about your home, such as the location and amount of any insulation you already have.

Understanding how your home uses energy can also help you determine what changes will save you the most energy and money. For an easy home energy audit, check out the Owens Corning Home Report Card® quiz. The quiz provides tailored recommendations for improving home energy efficiency.

The place to consider first is the attic. Most of a home's heat is lost through the attic because heat tends to rise as it moves toward a colder area. That's why the U.S. Department of Energy recommends R-49 for attics in your area, which is about 15 1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation. For an unconditioned attic, the insulation should first fill the cavities between the floor joists, and if there is a second layer it should run perpendicular to the direction of the joists.

If your home is drafty, sealing the exterior of the home is a good line of defense in that regard. It is important to caulk and weather-strip around all seams, cracks and openings. Pay special attention to windows and electrical outlets. Unwanted air leakage alone can raise energy bills up to 10 percent.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Is the new technology better?

Don writes from Pontiac, Illinois: "We are building a new house. My builder has given me the choice of fiberglass insulation in the side walls (R-15 2x4 walls) or foam insulation sprayed on the exterior sheeting. Is the new technology of foam better or stay with the proven fiberglass. The foam is sprayed on 2lb foam, 2" thick and an R21 equivalent."

Answer: My recommendations are Owens Corning PINK Fiberglas™ insulation for the stud cavity and PINK FOAMULAR® extruded foam insulation for exterior sheathing.

I may be biased because I have been acting in Owens Corning commercials since 1980. Owens Corning developed the commercial process for making fiberglass home insulation back in the 1930s and has been a leader in the glass fiber business ever since. The company makes quality products that are readily available and widely used to make homes comfortable and energy efficient. When it is installed correctly and not damaged by fire, water exposure or physical displacement, Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation will deliver its labeled thermal performance for the life of the building in which it is installed.

Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation is also certified to contain at least 35 percent recycled content, the highest certified level in the industry. And Owens Corning Fiberglas insulation is GREENGUARD Indoor Air Quality Certified®. GREENGUARD Certification is awarded to products that meet indoor air quality standards set by the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute.

Owens Corning was the first insulation manufacturer to qualify for a stringent new GREENGUARD Product Emission Standard for Children and Schools, developed in response to rising concern over illnesses such as asthma and respiratory conditions sometimes associated with poor indoor air quality. Finally, and best of all from my perspective, Owens Corning home insulation is PINK, my favorite color.

P.S. Did I mention that Owens Corning sponsors my blog and does not make spray foam insulating products?

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:42 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I just reverse it?

Daniel writes from New Castle, Delaware: "I have R19 insulation in my attic that I put there I think incorrectly. In my upstairs bedrooms there is paneling then 2x4 studs and then the attic. I Put insulation between 2x4's but put paper on attic side instead of bedroom side. Can I just reverse it? Or should I get new insulation to make bedrooms warmer?"

Answer: Yes, you can turn the original insulation over so that the vapor retarder is down facing the warm-in-winter side of the joist cavity. You can also purchase additional unfaced insulation to bring you home up to the U.S. Department of Energy recommendation for attics in your area, which is R-49. If the joist cavity is full, run the next layer perpendicular to the direction of the joists.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 04:39 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 18, 2008

Question: Does this include metal octagon light fixture boxes?

The other Bill writes from Detroit, Michigan: "Would this include the metal octagon boxes that the surface light fixture? And switch boxes and outlet boxes in the wall? I am very well versed on knob and tube as I still have a few runs in my old home in the city."

Answer: Yes, you can insulate over and around the items you mention in your e mail message.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I add a bathroom with your basement system?

Carol writes from Brookfield, Wisconsin: "I want to refinish my basement with your system, but I want to add a bath with shower in the basement. Can I do that? Also, I need to bring city water into my basement. Does this need to be done before I have the basement refinished?"

Answer: Yes, you can include a bathroom with the Owens Corning Basement Finishing System™. To assure optimum results, the Basement Finishing System is offered through Owens Corning franchisees and is installed by certified professionals. Call 1-800-BASEMENT™ or click here to find the Certified Installer nearest you. You can also learn more about the Basement Finishing System on the Owens Corning Web site.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:30 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 17, 2008

Question: What do you recommend for a super-insulated workshop?

Don writes from Shelby, Michigan: "I am building a superinsulated workshop and want an R30 wall and R 60 ceiling, what do you recommend?"

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures an R-30 Fiberglas™ insulation product for a 10-inch cavity depth. Walls are typically 2x4 or 2x6, however if you can build out to accommodate the product, we would recommend the R-30 faced Fiberglas insulation. Facing should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side of the wall. As for the ceiling, we recommend layering two R-30 products. The bottom layer would be faced and the second layer would be unfaced Fiberglas insulation. Again, the facing should be installed toward the warm-in-winter side.

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Question: What if it is a heated space?

Bill writes again from York, Maine: "What if it is a heated space, like a short basement?"

Answer: I am having a problem picturing in my mind the space you want to insulate. Is the portion of the basement crawl space that has a dirt floor separate from the part that has a concrete floor? Typically, we don't recommend anything over dirt floors except the 4 to 6 mil poly to inhibit moisture from coming up into the crawl space. We don't recommend anything on concrete floors unless you are willing to put in a subfloor with foam insulation under the subfloor. When crawlspaces are unheated and ventilated, we recommend insulating the joists in the ceiling of the crawlspace, which you already have. If the crawlspace is heated and not ventilated, then the walls should be insulated. If you have additional questions, please call the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss the situation. The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:03 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I use R-19 Fiberglas™ insulation in a 2x4 wall?

John writes from Beverly, Massachusetts: "I AM INSULATING AN OLDER GARAGE WITH 24" ON CTR STUDS THAT ARE A TRUE 2X4 AND 8 FT HIGH WALLS. I AM HAVING TROUBLE FINDING IN STOCK ANYWHERE LOCAL THE INSULATION I BELIEVE I NEED. I AM LOOKING FOR THE PINK R-11 (3 1/2 in. Thick) Fiberglass Batt Insulation - 23 in. Width x 93 in. Length with Kraft paper Facing. MY QUESTION IS CAN I USE THE THICKER R19 AT 6.25 THICKNESS IN A 2X4 WALL?"

Answer: Placing R-19 Fiberglas™ insulation in a 2x4 cavity will result in compression and loss of R-value. The resulting R-value will be 13 and that will not be a good value for you. My recommendation is to buy R-13 or R-15 High Density insulation for the wall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 11:59 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 16, 2008

Question: How can I add R-value to my roof?

Scott writes from Cambridge, Minnesota: "I have an old farm house with a 12x12 roof. The only insulation appears to be between the 2*6 rafters since the ceiling vaults inside (lots of heat loss/ice build-up). I want to replace the shingles and would like to add some R value. What would you recommend? I am considering a laminated Poli-Iso plywood sheathing but it is quite expensive. Can I apply foam insulation under the shingles without having to re-plywood?"

Answer: We do not recommend placing our shingles right on top of insulation. We recommend that one-inch airspace be maintained between the roof deck and the top of the insulation. To add R-value, it may be necessary to fur out the 2x6 roof rafters.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:19 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I insulate my basement walls?

Jim writes from Merrimac, Massachusetts: "My home is 5 years old, and the basement is not insulated. To finish the basement, I am considering first foam board attached to the interior foundation walls, then a stud wall, with fiberglass batts. I would use the foam board to help keep moisture from reaching the studs. I figured 1" foam, plus the batts should be enough. Then I can remove the batts in the currently in the basement ceiling, as the basement would then be part of the conditioned space (also would have our furnace zoned for the basement as well). Does this make sense? Would I be just as well to go with 2" thick foam board and forget the stud wall?"

Answer: We don't recommend placing FOAMULAR® insulation directly on the wall and then placing studs directly over that. Typically, either a FOAMULAR insulation product like INSULPINK® insulation is used, or a stud wall is built slightly away from the block wall. This wall will then be insulated with Fiberglas™ insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:16 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need a vapor retarder between foam and drywall?

Danny writes from Trenton, Michigan: "I am finishing my basement and want to ask a couple of questions about insulating the walls.

1.  I plan on using your Foamular product. Should I be adding a vapor barrier between the foam installation and drywall?

2.  Is it better to install the drywall directly to the installation, or build a 2x4 wall structure in front of the installation, and attach the installation to the 2x4's. I was not planning on adding additional insulation between the 2x4 studs, unless it is advised."

Answer: Owens Corning manufactures a product called INSULPINK® basement wall insulation that is designed for basement walls and channeled to be used with furring strips. Drywall is attached to the furring strips because FOAMULAR® insulation is non-structural. A vapor barrier is not specified by Owens Corning in this application but you should check with your local building code for special requirements in your area.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:07 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 15, 2008

Question: How can I bond FOAMULAR® insulation to metal?

Matt writes from Edelstein, Illinois: "What can I use to bond Foamular insulation to metal? The application is a basement window where the frame is painted metal that is poured into the concrete basement walls. The metal condensates moisture during cold weather in the winter, and I want to isolate it from the finished wall using Foamular."

Answer: Owens Corning does not manufacture adhesives but I have phone numbers for a couple of companies that may be able to help you. This list is supplied for your convenience. Owens Corning does not endorse or recommend these products. Contact the manufacturers for information about their products and approved applications.

Macco Adhesives: 800-634-0015
Gemco: 800-331-1164

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:06 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I nail foam on top of the batting?

Lester writes from Gainesville, Florida: "I bought an older home, about 22 y.o. It looks like the previous owner added 2 bedrooms and a bathroom into the attic. My problem is I live in Florida, and during the summer months, the downstairs is 15-25 degrees cooler than the upstairs, and the upstairs AC runs almost continuously. I have access to the attic around the rooms and bathroom, and there is batting between the studs. Can I nail in 1" or 2" foam on top of the batting for extra insulation and reduce air loss?? Should I remove the batting, place foam board on the drywall and then re-insert the batting for double protection?? I really could use some ideas on how to reduce my energy costs and keep the upstairs cool, especially since summer is coming. Please help."

Answer: We recommend adding unfaced insulation on top of the existing batts, perpendicular to the direction of the joists if the joist cavities are filled. FOAMULAR® insulation is not typically installed between framing members. Among the reasons for that are the time need to cut pieces and the air leakage around the cut pieces if they don’t fit snugly. We don't have recommendations for placing FOAMULAR insulation on top of batt insulation on an attic floor. If you do not have insulation on or in the walls of these rooms, you may investigate insulating those areas as well.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:03 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to add a vapor retarder?

William writes from Chester Springs, Pennsylvania: "I have blown in insulation in my attic without vapor layer so if I add insulation do I need to add a vapor layer?"

Answer: No. When adding to existing insulation we recommend unfaced insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:00 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 12, 2008

Question: What is the status of cathedral ceiling Insulation?

Rex writes from Melbourne, Florida: "What is the status of ~24" Kraft Faced or Unfaced R-30c and R-38c Cathedral Ceiling Insulation? I have heard that it is not currently in production or available in distribution. Is this correct? It seems like a good product for my application."

Answer: I am not sure what you are asking. R30C and R38C Fiberglas™ insulation are both available in 15.5" and 23.75" widths, which makes them fit correctly in the wood framed cathedral ceiling applications where the studs are 16 and 24 inches on center. Are you asking if one of those products has been eliminated, or are you looking for something that is the full 24 inches wide? The products Owens Corning makes for cathedral ceiling applications are slightly less than the on-center dimension because they take into account the stud width? Let me know if this doesn't answer your question.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:08 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can you explain how to "fold and tear" attic rafter vents?

Charles writes from Birmingham, Alabama: "I just bought a package of Raft-R-Mates to install all along the (low pitch) roofline of my house, prior to adding insulation batts. I couldn't find the instructions in the box, but have found some on the OC website; however, I have not been able to find anything that describes the "fold and tear" instructions on the Raft-R-Mates themselves. Can you explain what I should do with this? Does this end face the soffit, or does it point up toward the roof (above the insulation)? Does it depend on whether or not I use batts or blown insulation?"

Answer: The fold goes toward the wall or sill and should be stapled to the roof up to the fold. Fold the remaining un-stapled material downward and staple it to the sill. This will allow the air to circulate from the soffit.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:05 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I put insulation over wiring and junction boxes?

Bill writes from Detroit, Michigan: "New construction attic, can I lay the insulation over the romex? Also the lighting fixture boxes are standard steel octagon boxes used for surface mounted light fixtures. Can I lay the insulation over the metal junction boxes?"

Answer: It is fine to insulate over and around electrical wires as long as they are not the old knob and tube style. Knob and tube wiring is sometimes found in buildings built before 1950 and dating all the way back to the late 1800s. The term refers to the porcelain knobs that the wiring was wrapped around as it went around corners and the porcelain tubes the wires ran through as they penetrated wood beams, joists, floor boards, and walls. If your home has this system, we recommend hiring a licensed electrician who has experience with knob and tube wiring to review it.

If the light fixtures are marked IC rated for "insulated ceiling," it is fine for insulation to come in contact with them. If the fixtures are not IC rated, we recommend placing the insulation at least 3 inches away.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:01 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

September 11, 2008

Question: How should I insulate my basement crawlspace?

Bill writes from York, Maine: "I have a 1947 Cape Cod style house. I am planning on insulating the basement (more like a crawlspace) this spring. It is half concrete and half dirt flooring. My current game plan is to put a 6-mil vapor barrier over the dirt portion and seal with tape/acoustic glue. On the walls and between the joists, I will install pink poly-sheets and attach with acoustic glue and seal the seams and current vents. The ceiling is currently insulated with fiberglass insulation. Should I cover the 6 mil vapor barrier with blanket insulation as well? Should the concrete floor be vapor barriered/insulated?"

Answer: The floor of an unheated crawlspace is not typically insulated. A 4- to 6 mil poly sheet over the dirt floor is all that is needed. It is not necessary to put Fiberglas™ insulation over it.