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October 31, 2008

The Money Pit helps answer questions

To spread the word about how homeowners can insulate and save, Owens Corning joined forces this fall with The Money Pit, the nationally syndicated home improvement radio show and Web site. That brought the Pink Panther™ together with Tom Kraeutler, who delivers expert home improvement tips as the Money Pit’s founder and co-host. Following are excerpts from their first exchange.

Pink Panther: This is really strange because I don't usually work with radio people. Have you ever had a guest who wouldn't speak at all?

Tom Kraeutler: Yes, we usually end up giving them a poke or two until they spill out something that is intelligible. Editing helps a lot. We can rearrange your words, ya know.

Pink Panther: Hmmm. Maybe it's best that I'm the quiet type. Yet I am definitely not "silent" on the need to insulate and save energy.

Tom Kraeutler: That's a good thing.

Pink Panther: You radio guys are big on sound effects. Maybe you could record someone insulating their attic.

Tom Kraeutler: Not much to hear with that. Insulating is a pretty quiet job. It is also so easy that it doesn't usually prompt a lot of grunts, groans or words we need to bleep out.

Pink Panther: Do you have a better idea?

Tom Kraeutler: Radio is theater of the mind. Imagine yourself sitting in your favorite easy chair as the season's first gentle snow drifts softly to the ground just outside your window. Sound's nice - right? Now imagine that same scene with your teeth chattering. Not so Norman Rockwell any more, now, is it? The only difference between chattering teeth and warm comfortable evening in your favorite easy chair is insulation. Got it? Good - now pass the popcorn Panther. You’re hogging it.

Pink Panther: I can smell the popcorn but, unfortunately, it is all in my mind.

One thing we have in common is the fact that we both get questions. I have received lots of questions since starting my blog in April 2006.

Tom Kraeutler: We get about 5,000 e-mail questions a year sent in to us, and thousands more reach us via our radio show at 1-888-MONEY-PIT.

Pink Panther: Wow!

Tom Kraeutler: Yes, there sure are a lot of folks that need home improvement help and about this time each year, lots of those questions turn to the costs of heating your home. Energy prices seem to rise and fall but the more cash I can keep in my wallet, the warmer I feel, though I wouldn't recommend stuffing the walls with cash. For that, the PINK stuff does quite well and is a lot less expensive.

Pink Panther: The most frequently asked question for me is about the vapor retarder - which way does it go? I keep writing the same answer over and over again - the vapor retarder goes toward the warm-in-winter side, which is typically toward the living space.

Tom Kraeutler: Before I became a home improvement expert on the radio, I was a home inspector and spent a lot of time in crawlspaces staring at insulation installed upside down. The funny thing was that the vapor barrier I was staring up at had these words stamped every 18 inches: "THIS SIDE TOWARD LIVING SPACE." So, unless you live in a crawlspace, you probably should put the vapor barrier closest to the side of the house that features such amenities as indoor plumbing.

Pink Panther: Some homeowners also ask about insulating the rafters overhead.

Tom Kraeutler: Unless you are finishing your attic, there's no need to insulate rafters. Insulation belongs between the heated space and the unheated space in your house, which usually means the attic floor.

Now, if you are going to insulate your attic because you want to covert that area to living space, it's a good idea to insulate between the rafters, but you also need to make sure you leave enough room for ventilation. Generally I recommend going one size smaller than the rafter depth. For example, if you have two-by-eight rafters (7 ½" deep), use insulation designed for a two-by-six space (5 ½" thick) and install it flush with the inside of the home. The extra two inches between the insulation and the underside of the roof sheathing serves as a ventilation channel that’ll let air pass over it and cart moisture away in the winter, as well as heat in the summer.

Pink Panther: What other questions do you get about insulating?

Tom Kraeutler: Here’s one: How can I have attic storage and insulation at the same time? The answer is a garage sale. You don't really need to keep all that stuff and your Encyclopedia Britannica collection is starting to make the ceiling sag.

Pink Panther: (groan)

Tom Kraeutler: OK, if that won't work, try carving out a limited "storage zone" right around the area of your attic stair or hatch. Keep the insulation in this space flush with the top of the ceiling joists and add a plywood floor. Then add storage shelves to take advantage of both the floor space and height of this area. For the rest of the attic, insulate, insulate, insulate! You need at least 19 inches of batt insulation or 22 inches of blown insulation in most parts of the country.

Pink Panther: Any other helpful tips for readers of my blog?

Tom Kraeutler: Yes, when adding insulation to an unfinished attic, remember the age-old adage: WALK ON WOOD. Surprisingly, the fluffy PINK stuff seems to give way when presented with a weight something less than 240 pounds. Don't ask me how I know, but coming up next week on The Money Pit, I'll have tips on how to repair a size 12D hole in your ceiling.

Pink Panther: That reminds me of a French Police Inspector I know.

# # #

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Question: Can I put plastic over insulation in the basement ceiling?

Cealy writes from Brighton, Illinois: "We have an unfinished basement and want to insulate the ceiling of it. The floor is dirt and tends to get wet when it rains. I saw in another e-mail your answer was to treat it like a crawl space and put plastic on the floor. Since we use the area for storage and the washer and dryer are down there I don't want to have little bits of insulation floating down onto everything. Can I put a sheet of plastic over the insulation I put in the basement ceiling? Wouldn't this have the same effect as putting it down on the floor? Do you have any other suggestions? Or is there any other type of insulation material that might work better?"

Answer: We recommend putting plastic on the dirt floor of a crawl space to prevent moisture from coming up into the space from the ground. Putting plastic on the ceiling will obviously not do that. Also, putting plastic under the basement ceiling insulation may trap moisture that comes from the living space above. If you want to cover the insulation in the ceiling, we recommend using something breathable like plywood or sheetrock.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:43 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Why is it not OK to use foam under the floor joists?

Carlo writes again from Leominster, Massachusetts: "It is not feasible to furr out the joists, as I need access beneath the floor joists to access the walk-in cellar and a storage room and would lose needed headroom. I noted that FOAMULAR is recommended for use outside of sheathing but inside vinyl siding on walls. Why is use on walls OK but its use under the floor joists not OK? I do not believe there is a vapor barrier under the floor - I think the floor consists of 3/8" oak parquet tiles glued to 1/2" plywood over 3/4" plywood subfloor. The 3/4 inch subflooring is screwed to the floor joists, with no plastic or other membrane underneath the subflooring."

Answer: My friends and I have more questions as well. Please call the Owens Corning customer service department at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:40 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I add higher R-value foam insulation on the OSB sheathing prior to replacing the vinyl cladding?

Carlo writes from Leominster, Massachusetts: "I live in central Massachusetts, and I have a large family room that is supported on posts approximately six feet above a 30-year old concrete floor and is open to the elements on two sides. The two remaining sides are made up of the house's exposed foundation. Currently, the bays between the 2x10 floor joists are filled with fiberglass insulation. The 1/2 inch OSB sheathing that normally encloses the floor joist bays and the vinyl siding material covering it's bottom side have been removed to allow installation of ductwork in a few of the joist bays. Before (or after) replacing the sheathing, I would like to upgrade the insulation and eliminate air infiltration, as the floor gets cold in the winter. Can I add higher R-value solid foam insulation on the bottom of the OSB sheathing prior to replacing the vinyl cladding on its exterior, thereby eliminating thermal bridging through the joists, or will that create a vapor problem? Alternatively, can I replace some of the fiberglass in the bays with higher R-value rigid foam, and in that case would it go against the bottom of the subfloor or against the top of the exterior sheathing?"

Answer: Installing FOAMULAR® insulation on the floor joist is not a recommended application. It could lead to moisture problems. Installing FOAMULAR insulation in the entire joist cavity could be very labor intensive so we don’t recommend that, either. Another option is to furr out the framing and install additional unfaced Fiberglas™ insulation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 08:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 30, 2008

Question: Where can I buy FOAMULAR® insulation?

David writes from Weed, California: "Who is the distributor for Foamular in the Sacramento, CA area? I need 1" and 3", 250# density, 2' X 4' sheets."

Answer: Unfortunately, Owens Corning does not have a FOAMULAR® insulation distributor in your area. The closest distributors are in Oregon and Washington:

Oregon Insulation Supply, 5900 NE 88th St - Bldg A, Suite 100, Vancouver, WA 98665 Phone - 360-693-1223

Pure Distribution, 3342 NW 26 Ave #4, Portland, OR 97210 Phone - 503-248-9662

Williams Concrete Accessories, 7601 North Columbia, Portland, OR 97203 Phone - 503-286-3647

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:47 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to have the attic ventilated?

Brian writes from Waco, Texas: "My wife and I bought a house a few years ago that was built in the '60s. There is no ventilation in the attic. If I have the foam insulation sprayed in the attic, do I still need to have the attic ventilated?"

Answer: Owens Corning ventilation recommendations are based on Dept of Housing and Urban Development standards. Further, our asphalt shingle warranties call for proper ventilation. However, since the company does not produce spray foam insulation, I suggest contacting a manufacture of those products to get their recommendations.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:44 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will someone sell a single bundle?

Loren writes again from San Francisco: "The problem is they only sell in 5 bundle amounts (I have not checked Lowe's yet). So if i need just another 20 feet of insulation to finish my house then I need to buy 5 bundles then throw away the extra 4 bundles? Maybe there is someone in the area that would sell single bundles? I have measured the house and I think I need 15 bundles but you know how that goes."

Answer: It is really up to the dealer whether to sell a single bundle. I recommend checking a few stores. An insulation contractor may also be willing to sell a single bundle.

Here are a few Fiberglas™ insulation dealers within 50 miles of your Zip Code:

GOODVIEW ROOFING 1320
1320 MARIN STREET
SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94121
415-282-9748

THE HOME DEPOT 6655 (Pro Store)
91 COLMA BLVD
COLMA, CA 94014
650-757-9653

THE HOME DEPOT 0639
2 COLMA BLVD
COLMA, CA 94014
650-755-9600

LUMBERMAN'S CONSTRUCTION
1960 FOLSOM ST.
SAN FRANCISCO, CA 94110
415-621-7294

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 12:41 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 29, 2008

Insulate now before all the snow melts

Owens Corning produced another advertisement about how easy it is to save 20 percent on heating and cooling energy bills by insulating. In this ad it looks like I just shoveled words into the snow on the side of a majestic mountain (click here to see the ad). According to the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE), 40 percent of U.S. energy is used by buildings, yet most Americans believe transportation and industry are the largest offenders. In a recent survey conducted by Owens Corning, only 27 percent of Americans correctly identified buildings as the major energy culprit. More survey participants singled out transportation and industry as the primary users of energy. Buildings are clearly the primary energy user followed by industry and transportation. So do something to reduce energy use and your energy bills. Insulate. It’s easy, so what’s stopping you? For helpful information about getting the job done, visit www.itseasytoinsulate.com or call 1-800-GET-PINK™.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Energy Efficiency Tips at 01:35 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I staple the paper?

Denny writes from Moundsville, West Virginia: "I live in West Virginia and we are using R-13 insulation in our wall with a face covering. Should I use a vapor barrier on top of this? How close should I staple the face paper and should it be stapled on the face of the 2 x 4 or on the inside edge?"

Answer: The Kraft paper on our R-13 Fiberglas™ insulation is an adequate residential vapor retarder. If you wish to install a different vapor retarder over it, we recommend the Kraft paper be slashed freely. It is acceptable to either face staple on inset staple the facing in an exterior wall.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:31 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I put housewrap on the inside?

Jeff writes from Elba, Alabama: "we bought a cabin that had been framed up but they did not put house wrap on it we have the insulation up and i want to know if i could put the house wrap on the inside"

Answer: Owens Corning housewrap products, such as PINKWRAP® housewrap, are designed to serve as air infiltration barriers. However, they are not designed for interior use.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:29 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Does R-value degrade if air passes through?

John writes from Brookfield, Connecticut: "Is it true fiberglass insulation's R-value degrades if air is allowed to pass through it? If so, by how much?"

Answer: Owens Corning Fiberglas™ insulation is not intended to have air passing through it. Fiberglas insulation is designed to trap pockets of air and slow the movement of heat through a wall or ceiling assembly.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:26 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 28, 2008

Question: Where can I buy R-21 insulation?

Loren writes from San Francisco, California: "I need to buy R-21 insulation. I can order it from Home Depot but is there an insulation dealer in my area where I can buy it? Also, where can I buy soundproofing? I assume at the same dealer."

Answer: R-21 Fiberglas™ insulation is a special order product. The Home Depot and Lowe's are our major insulation retailers from which to order the product. It is generally not a stocked item. Our QuietZone® noise control products can also be ordered from The Home Depot and Lowe's.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:57 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I add a second layer of insulation to attic walls that adjoin living space?

John writes from Houston, Texas: "I have an upstairs room that I can not cool below 80F during the summer. I believe that it's due to the accumulated heat in the attic and the fact that the walls only have R13 insulation - the walls to the attic are noticeably warm. Fortunately, I have access to the attic. How do I add a second layer of insulation to the attic walls to the living space?

1. I added R3 foamboard this winter but the walls are still noticeably warm
2. If I add r13 batts on top of the existing wall insulation do I need to add stud work as well or is there some other solution to hold the batts onto the wall.
3. Since I have foamboard already on some walls do I need to remove it or can I add batts on top of the foam. What about the double moisture barrier of the existing batts and now foam board?"

Answer: To add insulation to attic walls, place unfaced insulation behind the existing wall insulation. But just to make sure this will help with the problem, please call the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss your situation in detail. The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:54 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will we trap moisture behind the foam?

Charles writes again from Greenland, New Hampshire: "I ask how we could pick-up the additional R-4 to attain an R-25 in a 2x6 wall. Your advice was to apply a layer of Formular over the sheathing. I shared that with our chief engineer who questioned if we would be trapping moisture between the vapor barrier and the surface if the foam. He feels that the foam should have a lower permeability rating than the vapor barrier to allow any moisture to escape from the outside. Will this assembly be bothered by this?"

Answer: FOAMULAR® insulation at one inch has a perm rating of 1.1 and Kraft facing has a perm rating of 1.0, so FOAMULAR insulation does have a lower perm rating. FOAMULAR insulation is not considered to be a vapor retarder. If the engineer would like to discuss this with someone, he can call the Owens Corning customer service department at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:50 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 27, 2008

I did not deface the moon

Please don't think I put graffiti on our beautiful moon. The ad that makes it look like I painted words on the moon (click here to see it) is actually the work of a very talented advertising artist. I usually don't condone such trickery but I needed to make a point in a dramatic way and this solution was clearly better than actually painting the moon. To be perfectly honest, I didn't get to wear the space helmet, either. I posed with the paint bucket and brush but the artist added the headgear later. I hope you aren't disappointed to know that. Do take my message to heart, though - it is easy to save on energy bills. For information about how you can save up to 20 percent on the cost of heating and cooling your home,* visit www.itseasytoinsulate.com or call 1-800-GET-PINK™.

* A properly sealed and insulated home can save up to 20 percent on heating and cooling energy bills. Savings vary. Find out why in the seller's fact sheet on R-values. Higher R-values mean greater insulating power.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Energy Efficiency Tips at 11:30 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How should I add the R-19?

Dan writes from Baltimore, Maryland: "According to the calculator on this website, I need to add R 19 to insulate my attic. First I am going to install a power gable ventilator. The insulation in the attic is lying on the attic floor with the vapor barrier to the roof.

My question is, How should I add the R-19?
a. Should I use faced or not faced?
b. Do I install under or above existing.
c. Should I turn the existing over?”

Answer: Turn over the existing insulation so the vapor retarder will face down toward the warm-in-winter side of the insulation. Place unfaced R-19 insulation on top.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:07 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I put something on the shingles to cool the roof?

Dennis writes from Cocoa, Florida: "Here in Florida, it stays over 90 for most of the day, for 7 months and my ac very seldom stops. I live in a manufactured home and there isn't much space to get underneath the roof. Is there something I can put on top of the shingles to cool the roof off to help the ac from running so much? I see a few homes with some king of white covering on top of the roof."

Answer: Owens Corning does not manufacture such a product. However, a local roofing contractor or manufactured housing dealer may be familiar with it.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:04 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I have to remove the insulation?

Charles writes again from Eliot, Maine: "The insulation is already R19, and its faced (kraft paper is toward 1st floor). These houses were built with the idea that the upstairs might be finished, and might not be. Do I have to remove it?"

Answer: No. There is no need to remove the insulation. You should receive some acoustic benefit from leaving it in place. If you are asking about the vapor retarder there is no need to remove that, either. In an interior wall between rooms or floors that are conditioned in the same way, there should be no vapor movement.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:01 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 24, 2008

Cowboy not silent or clothed

Earlier this month while in New York City to break my silence and identify the biggest user of energy in the U.S. today (buildings), I ran into a guy in Times Square who was willing to be very vocal about insulating and saving - The Naked Cowboy. Given his "covering," or lack thereof, it was not surprising that he didn't hesitate to help sing the praises of insulation. Use this link to check him out on YouTube.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:50 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Should I use a vapor retarder in the rest of the garage?

John writes from Andover, Minnesota: "I have a 3 car attached garage that I want to insulate and drywall so I can heat it in the winter on occasion but not all the time. The garage is about 1/2 finished where living space is on the other side of the wall and the garage space is the cold in winter side, I would like to insulate and finish the rest of the garage. Should I use vapor barrier in the rest of the garage as the warm in winter side?"

Answer: Yes, use a vapor retarder on exterior walls and anywhere you are separating heated from unheated rooms. The paper should face the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:47 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Will the vapor barrier allow moisture to condense in the enclosed and insulated but unventilated rafter bays?

Richard writes again from Damascus, Oregon: "I'm looking for some clarification on the roof question. The finished construction, as proposed, would be, going from the outside inward toward the heated space, sheet metal exterior cladding, a vapor barrier, a 2x6 space filled with R19 Kraft paper batts, and finally drywall. The vapor barrier immediately below the sheet metal was installed during the original construction to avoid condensation dripping from the roof. My concern is the possibility that that vapor barrier is going to allow moisture to condense in the newly enclosed and insulated, but unventilated 2x6 rafter/purlin bays."

Answer: That is a possibility. Owens Corning recommends one vapor retarder installed toward the warm-in-winter side.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:43 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need insulation on the inside of the room?

Charles writes from Eliot, Maine: "2 questions: I am finally finishing the upstairs of my Cape Cod style home. The builder put R19 in what will be the 1/2 story floor space and then covered it with plywood. As this will be livable area, do i need to add any insulation to it, in fact, do I need any at all. I know I need R38 beyond the knee walls, but this will be on the inside of the room.

2. I have a lot of insulation I bought a few years ago. Some of it has been exposed to sunlight. Is it still good or does sunlight/extended storage degrade it?"

Answer: 1. Insulation in the floor of a second level that will be living space is needed for sound control only. For sound control, 3-1/2 inches of insulation is commonly recommended.

2. Exposure to UV light may fade the color of our PINK Fiberglas™ insulation but it will not reduce its R-value.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 07:35 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 23, 2008

Question: What can we use and where to do we get it?

Lori writes from Lafayette, Colorado: "We live in a 10 year old rental house in Colorado. The concrete basement walls are covered with insulation with a white plastic cover installed by the builder. The insulation is in sections 36 inches wide and runs from floor to ceiling. The insulation is attached directly to the wall, i.e. there are NO studs or furring. The sections are taped together with insulation tape. Several places the plastic has torn and the insulation is exposed. We need to replace this insulation before moving out but can't find anything that looks like this insulation and don't want to spend a lot of money. What can we use and where to do we get it?"

Answer: Is it possible to satisfy the landlord by repairing the tears with white duct tape? Can you find the builder and ask where the insulation was obtained? It is hard to tell what you have based on the description. Owens Corning does not make insulation for residential application that is 36 inches wide. You won't like my other options because of the cost but I can only recommend alternatives that comply with building codes. One option is to remove the existing insulation and replace it with InsulPINK® extruded polystyrene basement wall insulation, which must be covered with a thermal barrier. Another option is to remove the insulation and replace it with framing and Fiberglas batts, which also must be covered with gypsum board or some other thermal barrier. Both of these options are great for insulating the basement and will pay for themselves over time with energy savings but they are likely to cost more than you want them to as a renter moving out of a property.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:58 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Do I need to add an additional vapor barrier?

Richard writes from Damascus, Oregon: "I'm converting a pole barn into a woodworking shop in the Portland, Oregon area. The exterior is clad in sheet metal. The roof is 2x6 purlins and I've added 2x6's horizontally in the walls. I plan to add R19 Kraft-backed batts to both the walls and ceiling. Do I need to add an additional vapor barrier to the walls before covering them with drywall? Secondly, the roof rafter spaces are unventilated, am I correct in assuming that it would be unwise to cover that area with drywall?"

Answer: The Kraft paper on Owens Corning Fiberglas™ insulation is a vapor retarder. An addition vapor retarder is not necessary. I do not have information that says it is unwise to put drywall under a non-vented roof system.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can I achieve an STC of 50?

Tim writes from Flagstaff, Arizona: "I'm adding a home theatre in the basement, and the bedrooms are directly above. I need to maximize soundproofing, and would like to reach the recommended STC of 50. The ceiling is being framed for drywall (used to be dropdown panels), and I have the opportunity to improve the insulation which is currently R-19. There arrears to be enough room for a equivalent size of R-40 insulation. Though thermal efficiency isn't a concern, soundproofing is. From what I can tell, one layer of drywall on an uninsulated wall gives an STC of 33. QuietZone specs seem to say the batting increases the STC about 6. Would packing multiple layers increase this, ie, could I say packing in three layers may increase the soundproofing 6x3, or an STC of 18? If this theory works, then I could potentially reach the desired STC of 50 by packing in lots of QuietZone insulation. Does this sound feasible? The other option is to use Quietrock drywall, probably in conjunction with QuietZone insulation, but this option appears substantially more expensive. Please advise. I want to do this remodel right while I have the chance."

Answer: While we would love to sell you enough insulation to fill the cavity, it would not be the advisable method to reduce the sound from floor to floor. Insulation provides its greatest sound reduction in the first inch of thickness. It will continue to reduce more sound as it gets thicker but the reduction per inch diminishes as the insulation gets thicker. This means the difference between 6 inches of insulation and 12 inches is minimal (not double). We typically recommend 3-1/2 to around 6 inches for floor/ceiling assemblies.

Adding mass (more drywall) and absorption (more insulation) in reasonable amounts will not get you to an STC of 50. To achieve that number you need to separate the structural sound by using something like resilient channels. Or if you are changing the floor above you could look at Owens Corning QuietZone™ Acoustic Floormat.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:47 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 22, 2008

Pink Panther™, Green Builder® Agree on Best Source of Energy

Pink Panther™, Green Builder® Agree on Best Source of Energy You might expect the Pink Panther and the Green Builder to see things differently.

For one thing, their backgrounds couldn't be much more dissimilar. The Pink Panther was born a movie star while Green Builder Ron Jones worked his way up from carpenter to builder to magazine editor and advocate for environmentally friendly construction practices.

Yet they have much in common, starting with their wealth of knowledge about energy conservation - the Panther’s from more than 25 years of doing commercials for insulation, and Jones from years of hands-on experience in the construction industry.

When Jones heard that the Panther "broke his silence" and is communicating about the biggest source of greenhouse gas emissions, he knew something special was happening and wrote to the Panther at his Save Energy Blog. Following an exchange of messages, the two decided to sit down face-to-face and discuss the world's energy problems. Following are excerpts from their exchange.

Getting acquainted

Pink Panther: It's nice to meet you but I must admit I am a little disappointed. I expected you to be green.

Green Builder: In my case the color is not literal; it's part of a nickname that reflects my interest in building homes that are good for the environment. Speaking of color, your pink is a lot brighter in person.

Pink Panther: I hear that a lot. And also that I am thinner than I seem to be on the big screen. You do have a furry face and I see some silver in your hair.

Green Builder: That's a sign of wisdom. It's common in mature male humans.

Pink Panther: Yea, right. I must admit that the fur on my face is a little whiter than it was in my first film. How did you become the Green Builder?

Green Builder: I was a custom builder and decided to specialize in environmentally appropriate construction. I ended up speaking about my experiences to a lot of green building organizations. To my knowledge, I am the only person ever to serve on the Boards of both the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB) and the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC).

How do you know so much about saving energy?

Pink Panther: Since 1980, I have appeared in a series of ads for Owens Corning PINK FIBERGLAS™ Insulation and other company products. I have also made countless personal appearances on behalf of Owens Corning, a practice that continues today as time allows. I got to know lots of Owens Corning people and we talked on the set while waiting for the filming or video taping to start.

The problem

Green Builder: What prompted you to break your silence after all these years?

Pink Panther: The fact that people don't understand the REAL problem. We hear a lot about the world's need for sustainability, energy savings, reduced greenhouse gas emissions and reducing our global appetite for fossil fuels, but people tend to point fingers in the wrong directions.

Green Builder: I've noticed that, too. There are lots of proposed solutions for our energy problems but most are off the mark because they either feed our energy habit by calling for more digging or drilling, or they are not a good value because they cost a lot and contribute little.

Where they go wrong

Pink Panther: Many put the blame on cars and industry, for example, when our own homes and the places where we work are the biggest users of energy and the biggest emitters of greenhouse gas emissions.

Green Builder: Builders and homeowners I talk with think their homes are already well-insulated. There is a big difference between an insulated home and a well-insulated home

Pink Panther: According to an Owens Corning estimate, there are nearly 80 million under-insulated homes in the U.S. today(1). They are considered under-insulated because they don't meet U.S. Department of Energy recommendations.

Green Builder: Only about 10 percent of the homes built today can be considered well-insulated on the basis that they exceed code requirements.

The solution

Pink Panther: According to a study by The McKinsey Global Institute, insulation is the most cost-effective method of reducing energy use and greenhouse gas emissions(2).

Green Builder: That should open peoples' eyes about the value of insulation.

Pink Panther: Energy conservation can be our "first source" of energy

Green Builder: We agree on that. Before thinking about other green products for the home, prospective buyers should pay attention to the basics of insulation. Other things can be good, too, but it is sad when the solution with the most potential for energy savings and sustainable construction is not fully utilized.

Pink Panther: The Department of Energy recommendations up to R-60 for attics now. They have increased their recommendation in recent years because today's higher energy costs justify the use of more insulation.

Green Builder: And a well-insulated home needs more than just a lot of insulation. Homes need to have their framing done to optimize the benefit of insulation. There are also other details to pay attention to, such as careful installation, caulking, etc.

Existing homes

Green Builder: I often meet people who drive hybrid and flex-fuel cars but have no idea how much insulation is in their own attic

Pink Panther: If you want to help the environment, the absolute first thing you need to do is check the insulation in your attic. About 40 percent of a home's energy loss goes out through the top of the structure.

Green Builder: It’s easy to tell if a home needs more insulation. If you can see the floor joists in the attic - some people call them beams - you need more insulation. It is very easy to add more insulation to most attics, and if a homeowner just doesn’t have time or want to bother with the project, there are contractors who will do the job for them.

Pink Panther: There are other energy saving measures to consider as well. For example, there are insulators that work with the pull-down stairs many people have in their attics. Programmable thermostats can also save energy and money by turning the heat down at night or during the day when the home is empty. Weather stripping and caulking can also be helpful. Owens Corning has a list of these other measures on its Web site.

Green Builder: My checklist includes windows, furnace filters, hot water tank insulation and temperature setting, among others. My Web site also has lots of energy-saving suggestions for builders and homeowners.

A few tough questions

Green Builder: Before this turns into a love-fest, I need to ask you a hardball question. I know your insulation is PINK, but is it really green.

Pink Panther: That's not a hardball question at all. PINK insulation from Owens Corning is very “green.” The company's Fiberglas™ insulation, for example, is certified to contain a minimum of 40 percent recycled content. That’s the highest certification level for fiberglass insulation in the industry. The company's FOAMULAR® insulation is the only extruded polystyrene foam insulation certified for recycled content. The percent for FOAMULAR® insulation is 15 percent, and that includes 100 percent of the scrap from production. Both types are very durable. We have tested fiberglass insulation that is more than 50 years old and found that it still retained its R-value. The company's foam insulation is warranted to maintain 90 percent of its R-value for 20 years with no caveats for exposure to moisture or facer de lamination.

Green Builder: What about indoor air quality?

Pink Panther: The company’s Fiberglas insulation is GREENGUARD Indoor Air Quality Certified®.* That means the product is Certified by the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute to meet their strict indoor air quality standards. The manufacturing process doesn’t need to add chemicals for fire safety and it does not support mold growth.

Now I have a hardball question for you: Why aren't builders constructing more energy efficient homes?

Green Builder: Well, home building is a tough competitive business. Most builders do a great job of giving homeowners what they want and are willing to pay for. At the same time, they are reluctant to add much to the initial cost of the home because their customers are comparing their prices with their competitors in the same area. That said, more and more builders are joining the green team every day. The National Association of Home Builders is also encouraging this move and is giving them lots of support. And as homeowners demonstrate that they care about buying a green home and are willing to pay for it, we'll see more green homes built.

Where we agree

Pink Panther: OK, so where do we agree? There seems to be no dispute that buildings are the big users of energy and the big emitters of greenhouse gas emissions

Green Builder: We agree that energy efficient homes can be our first source of energy, and you don't need to build a new home to have a more energy efficient home.

Pink Panther: For the most impact on sustainability, check the attic and add insulation if needed.

Green Builder: Don't stop there; keep going to “green” your home. And when buying a new home, make sure it is optimized for energy efficiency; not just insulated but built to be well-insulated from the ground up. Where we disagree

Green Builder: The most important color in a home is green.

Pink Panther: PINK.

Green Builder: Green.

Pink Panther: OK, Silver Top.

Green Builder: That's Arctic blonde to you, sir.

* The GREENGUARD INDOOR AIR QUALITY CERTIFIED Mark is a registered certification mark used under license through the GREENGUARD Environmental Institute

(1) Estimate of nearly 80 million under-insulated homes in 2008 based upon a 2003 Harvard School of Public Health study, The Public Health Benefits of Insulation Retrofits in Existing Housing in the United States.

(2) The McKinsey Global Institute

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Energy Efficiency Tips at 10:02 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How can we pick up the additional R-4?

Charles writes from Greenland, New Hampshire: "We are about to build a home for a client. His architect has specified 2x6 walls, 1/2" drywall interior and white cedar over 7/16" osb and housewrap exterior. He also specified R-25. R-21 fiberglass is all that will fit in the cavity. How can we pick up the additional R-4?"

Answer: You can achieve an additional R-5 by installing one inch of FOAMULAR® extruded polystyrene insulation over the OSB before applying housewrap and white cedar.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:57 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What about the attic ceiling instead of the floor?

Gerald writes from Alton, Illinois: "Our house is 70 years old and very energy inefficient. There appears to be three types of insulation in the attic. First there is are large white cotton like clumps but its not the blown type. On top of that are pink rolls and in some places on top of that are thick yellow fiberglass pads about 4' X 6'. The roof leaks and needs to be sealed and it's obvious that animals have been up there in the past, which raises concerns regarding mold and other nasty stuff in the insulation. In a previous blog you suggested not to remove old insulation, but in this case it seems like a good idea. In order to effectively caulk/seal the 1/8"-1/4" gaps between the roof planks (tar paper is visible) from inside the attic I'll need to lay down plywood flooring but the bays are only 5 1/2 inches deep. Will flooring over the rafters compress R30 too much? Also, I'll need to add another layer to get my R-value up to 49, what about between the rafters on the attic ceiling instead of cross-ways on top of plywood floor? With moisture barrier up against the roof and held in place with chicken wire or other similar method that doesn't hinder airflow from the vented gable ends? I've also heard of pink rolls that have a metal foil backing to reflect heat conducted through the roof. Does OC make this product?"

Answer: R-30 fiberglass insulation compressed to 5-1/2" will reduce the R-value to 18. With regard to insulating between the rafters on the attic ceiling instead of the plywood floor, we recommend using insulation only around heated/air-conditioned areas. If the attic is not conditioned and you insulate its ceiling, you could create a "hot box" in the summer time. Owens Corning does not manufacture a foil-backed insulation for residential applications.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:52 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is the best way to staple the insulation flange?

Melvin writes from Flushing, Michigan: "What is the best way to staple the flange on insulation? I have found two ways inset and on the edge which is correct for a ceiling?"

Answer: For cathedral ceiling applications we recommend face stapling (not inset in the cavity). For walls and other applications, either method is acceptable. The concern for cathedral ceilings is that the insulation may be pushed into the airspace and block ventilation.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 09:48 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 21, 2008

Question: Which products can I use to insulate the floor

Jared writes from South Windsor, Connecticut: "I know there was a similar question asked, but I didn't quite follow the answer. Here is the description of my problem and my question:

I have a 10'x12' 2-season sun room, which I would like to convert to 4-season room. The room sits on 4x4 posts and a 2x6 joist framework. The underside is exposed, roughly 4" to 12" off the ground. The floor is finished with plywood. I can potentially build up the floor approximately 4". So I can potentially add insulation both on the outside (underside) and inside of the floor.

I am trying to decide which products (and which combination of products) I can use for the outside and inside to properly insulate this floor to at least R-25."

Answer: This is an unusual situation and I would need more information to answer your question in e-mail. That would require a lot of typing with my furry paws. Instead, can you please call the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss the details? The number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:18 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: What is your opinion regarding energy barrier paints?

Angela writes from Powderly, Texas: "We live in a large, 4700sf ranch style home in northern TX where the summers can be brutally hot. The roof over the main living area is very steep and high, and gets very hot. Despite replacing our main a/c with a new high efficiency unit, sealing cracks around doors and windows, our monthly electrical bill can exceed $1000 in the summer months. The area of our roof was calculated at 96.7 "number of squares" (what is that, square yards?) when we had the roof replaced after a hail storm. We're considering using Sherwin Williams e-Barrier (or something similar) painted on the inside of our attic to reduce our energy costs but are having trouble finding information on how effective these products really are. What is your experience and opinion on e-Barriers?"

Answer: First, the easy one: One roofing square is 100 square feet.

The painted barriers you are asking about are not manufactured by Owens Corning so I don’t have any knowledge of or experience with those products. Contact the manufacturers for information about their products.

You don't mention attic insulation but that is one of the first things I would check. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) recommends R-49 in the attic where you live. That's about 15-1/2 inches of fiberglass insulation. For more about what the DOE recommends for your home, visit their Web site.

Attic ventilation is also important in preventing heat buildup. The minimum ratio is 1/300. That means you need one square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet of attic space. We recommend a ratio of 1/150. There is information on the Owens Corning Web site that will help you determine the amount of ventilation you need.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:13 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I source building board from Canada?

Sadiq writes from Mississauga, Ontario: "Can I source building board 8'x4'x1/2" from Canada? The board constitutes of two layers of fiber glass mesh/pp mesh+ ordinary Portland cement + fine sand + EPS beads (2/3mm)."

Answer: The product you describe is not an Owens Corning product. We manufacture extruded polystyrene rigid foam insulation without a cement finish.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 01:09 PM | | TrackBacks (0)

October 20, 2008

Question: What's the best way to temporarily insulate a space?

Eric writes from Nepean, Ontario: "I have a sun room that I would like to completely insulate for over the winter. We need a space where we can store things and keep them warm during this time. We get temperatures as low as -22 degrees Fahrenheit with an average of -4. I'm intending on covering the glass so I guess it will be a dark room during the winter. What's the best (easiest and cost effective) way to temporarily insulate the space?"

Answer: I suggest covering the glass panels of your sunroom with temporary walls you can make with 2x4 wood studs, fiberglass insulation, 6 mil polyethylene and panelized wood finish to make it durable. That will look good and create privacy when installed, and it should not create a problem if a building inspector sees it.

You should consider insulating the floor, and possibly the roof. They could be done permanently, if you have access to space underneath the floor and in the roof. I also suggest maintaining a minimum heat in the room during winter.

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:12 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: How do I get air circulation to the roof turbines?

William writes from Madison, Mississippi: "My new home is one year old. It was new construction that was completed prior to our finding it and purchasing it. It has a bonus room over the garage with knee walls. There is a floored area (not heated or cooled) under the roof outside of the bonus room. It is accessed by a small door at the end of the room. Standing just outside of the room, I can look up and see the sheet rock ceiling, insulation, and subroof, and there is no air space between the insulation and the subroof. Also, I have several roof turbines, and the roof turbine above the bonus room turns at about 1/4 the speed of the turbines above the main roof. Obviously air circulation from the soffits to the turbine is not happening. How do I fix this?"

Answer: Vent products from Owens Corning work on air pressure. The company does not market turbines but it sounds like that product uses air pressure as well. To answer your questions about ventilation and other concerns, my friends at Owens Corning have questions. Can you give them a call at 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465)?

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:07 AM | | TrackBacks (0)

Question: Can I slice the plastic to allow ventilation?

Dale writes from Mount Holly, New Jersey: "I live in a two story colonial style house that was built in 1940. The previous owner had a small 13x13 addition added (studs and drywall) which has a peaked ceiling inside. Since this addition is off the back of the house and has three exterior walls, the energy savings in the room is terrible. In the winter with the baseboard heat turned down, it feels like you might as well be standing outside. The large Bay window and large stained glass window don't help I’m sure. I'm not sure if there is insulation in the walls, but I'm pretty sure there are sheets of insulation behind the exterior siding. Under the addition floor is a 4 foot crawl space with a concrete floor. The floor is insulated underneath with kraft paper facing the living space, but to hold up the insulation, plastic sheeting was stapled in strips as wide as the joists. Is this trapping condensation? Can I slice the plastic to allow ventilation? Also, can you recommend a better way to insulate this room because there is no tree shade to help in the summer and the house does not have central air conditioning or a way to window air condition this particular addition."

Answer: We do not recommend using plastic in an under-floor application because it may trap moisture. For insulation recommendations, please call my friends in the Owens Corning customer service department to discuss your situation. Their number is 1-800-Get Pink™ (438-7465).

Posted by The Pink Panther™ Ask the Pink Panther™ , Frequently Asked Energy Questions at 10:03 AM | | TrackBacks (0)